clearway
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Everything posted by clearway
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yet again another build that is awesome,,, you are not helping to dispel the myth that all modellers are a tad crazy and not wired right🤪. Keith -
Thanks for the likes, links and comments everyone, I now have the rope handrail on the bridge. Thinking about supporting the bridge near midships and when reading Matthews book concerning modifications made to the ships boats mention is made of making use of wooden supports that he suggests might have been used to support the canvas cover for the decks when wintering over, got me thinking "what if they were used for supporting the bridge instead as they would be about the same height"?🤔. Take care all Keith
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Nice- now you know why i chickened out and used occres poor samples! That will be some stitching exercise😱. Will deffo look awesome though (don't be pinching any wedding dresses for the silk😁) Keith
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Interesting double look concept- i have seen some railway modellers use a similar technique- one side of a freight vehicle in one livery and the other side with the same livery but altered insignia etc for a later time period (some british goods vehicles went through several changes of owner). Keith
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Polaris by JDillon - OcCre
clearway replied to JDillon's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
I glue the 2nd planking using evo-stick fast setting wood glue (thin bead on the plank then wiping excess with finger tip) and using dress makers pins to hold in place till dry (see early on in my terror log). regards trimming i glue all planks on first then trim back till a few mm from the hull then sand back with fine sand paper. Ignore occres planking runs - planks taper towards the bow and from deck level till the rudder post. for example if the frame at the bow is 10mm the frame at midships could be 20mm so you will need to taper from where the frames start to lessen towards the bow/ stern. hope this helps (from my endurance log) Keith
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Polaris by JDillon - OcCre
clearway replied to JDillon's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
for a first planking attempt not bad at all, If painting you should get away without 2nd planking, If adding a 2nd layer just add a layer of the cheapest 4 or 5mm x 1mm planking using the first layer to guide you. Keith -
Even though i was sanding outside a dust mask is definitely recommended! As regards the bumpers prime, then sand back then repeat- do the same with the paint proper and it will fill any blemishes which would negate having to plank them (also recommend this for the hull when painting- see my hms victory log) you will still see the odd line here and there which shows there is planking though will be more subtle. Keith
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Thanks Hake, not sure exactly how accurate we have all got it but we are in the right area (waits while parks canada releases a series of wreck photos showing all the details we have been driving ourselves nuts with)..... just had a thought, if they did put the compasses in the carpenters store while not in use they will all still be there..... Keith S get that diving expedition underway😁. Keith
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oooo i never thought of that Daniel i just used a lining pen to create a basic compass rose on a piece of stout paper left over when you use a paper punch, dimensions on mine are about same as yours, and yes Craig we have all drifted into a strange mental place🤪 Keith
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looks o.k. to me😁 Keith
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Psst kevin i highly recommend a dremel with the chuck extension lead/cable (best purchase i ever made and sooooooooooo sexy) you end up with a very light and handy to use ergonomic hand held sleeve with a chuck on the end while the dremel itself is held up either in a stand or hanging from a hook😜 Keith
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Thanks for the likes etc everyone, continuing on with the bridge redux and added more handrail stanchions on wooden supports abaft the bridge. Also removed the brass sunlight from near the capstan and added some 2mm brass tube for the safety valve steam pipe. Take care all and thanks for looking in Keith
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Nice Work Daniel, takes the model to a whole different look when installed methinks😁 Keith
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Polaris by JDillon - OcCre
clearway replied to JDillon's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
looks nice -
Polaris by JDillon - OcCre
clearway replied to JDillon's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
there is also a company called Always Hobbies (hobbies.co.uk) which sells various types of stripwood/ metal and Caldercraft fittings - it is where i got the walnut strip for my Terror build. Chris has mentioned Cornwall Model Boats and they are my main go to for a lot of things shippy Keith -
evening/ morning/ afternoon depending where you are😁, have finished making a pedestal for the azimuth compass, when looking at various pics i saw one on a brass tripod stand and thought that will do nice, Took Craigs idea and mounted the legs on an inverted box which sits over the post. Also made a new bridge with stanchions spaced closer and not with one down the centreline. Take care all Keith
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Thanks Keith, was just thinking that could have been the last view anyone from the western world would of seen of her and Erebus- gets you thinking. Keith
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Thanks for looking in, persistant rain today led to shipyard time. Back in more certain domain with the main sail sheets and tacks rigged before i finally glue the table and azimuth post in place (still need coiled though). Also fitted blackened brass rod to emulate supports for the bridge (might scrap this one and remake without a stanchion in the middle and others re spaced to suit). I read a bit about the wreck where the divers found a small stove in the sickbay in the bows with the flue sticking up through the foredeck and all the bulkheads removed, but suspect this was an impromptu addition so wont include it. Another thing to get sorted before i glue in the table etc is the vent for the safety valves Keith S mentioned in his last post on his log. Take care all Keith
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Nice to see you back with her Keith, i agree with you regards the pipe as having seen/travelled behind many steam locomotives the safety valves are built into the boiler and most definitely blow off large quantities of steam when the pressure builds up, so a large diameter pipe would be needed to clear it safely. Beginning to think it might have been an idea to have held back doing all that rigging in the waist of my build with all the mods i have been doing recently! Keith
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Thanks for the link Craig, anyways there is an Azimuth compass going on the post 😁. As regards the bridge will stick with the plans and add iron supports either side of the centreline made from brass rod blackened and most likely on the bridge wings leading to the outer bulwarks or capping rail. Keith
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as a guide for the plating i used the kit supplied veneer and ran it diagonally downwards towards the bows (there is a pic somewhere early in the logs) which as you needed to shape them to fit the bows it gave a guide for trimming the plates but start at the top and you will get a feel of the run Keith
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No problem Keith we all been there😜. if you look at photos of shackletons endurance the bridge was between the main and foremast while the wheel was still at the stern, They set up 3 or four foot long pointer on a post which was basically telling the helmsman which way to steer to avoid the growlers and bergs. Back with terror and i have now got Azimuth compass mark 2. Take care all Keith
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That is why i think the navigator on the bridge will get his bearing on the Azimuth and when the helmsman is on course the navigator will shout "mark" and he can use that bearing as a guide with the azimuth being consulted on a regular basis. Found this online regards Polar steering:- 3321. Magnetic Compass The magnetic compass directive force depends upon the horizontal intensity of the magnetic field of the earth. As the magnetic poles are approached, the opposing force on the compass card becomes progressively weaker until at some point the magnetic compass becomes useless as a direction-measuring device. In a marginal area it is good practice to keep the magnetic compass under almost constant scrutiny, as it will be somewhat erratic in dependability and its errors may change rapidly. Frequent compass checks by celestial observation or any other method available are wise precautions. A log of compass comparisons and observations is useful in predicting future reliability. Keith
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Thanks Craig, i have heard they would set the azimuth using a celestial body / geographical feature and keep her true using that bearing. Keith
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Don't forget Keith the Azimuth compass on the post came into play when they got towards the pole and normal compasses were as much use as a chocolate fireguard! So the azimuth would be used to set the course with the navigator correcting the helmsman till he was steering true. As for the "normal" compasses i think one like what keith S and i were talking about a year or so ago would have been mounted either on a binnacle in front of the helmsman or more likely on top of the skylight. Craig i think you could be on the right lines as on the Owen drawings there is no obvious sign of it sticking that far out. Keith
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