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Everything posted by clearway
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pity about the soldering as that would definitely hold them secure , but superglue gel should be good, for the bottom of the chainplates you could squeeze the bottom of the wire flat and drill through with a 0.68 mm drill bit in a pin vice and pin to the hull (i am thinking along your lines myself regards chainplates but maybe use the iron wire i mentioned. Keith
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Ty Nirvana, gave the hull a bit of a sanding / trimming and also planked the main and quarter decks. As hakazou pointed out in his build log the bulkheads were also planked (i was going to use the 2mm planking as used for deck, but wanted a difference in colour so dug some 3mm strip out of the spares box) Also planked the sides of the island using the 3mm strip. take care all, Keith
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Wow really coming along at pace😁- If mounting blocks to eyebolts i use annealed iron wire as used by people making jewelry which is available in different thicknesses to make the strops. Keith
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Thanks for looking in and the likes everyone. As mentioned in my terror log rain and nearly empty house has led to shippy time😋. Finally got the walnut 2nd planking near completion, just needs sanding down/ trimmed here and there and a stealer or two. will also need o think about adding the stem, keel and sternpost. Take care all Keith
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Thanks for looking in and the likes/ comments everyone. Got a few days off work while the admiral and daughter visit relatives + rain with bits of rain then showers so moved my workshop onto dining room table and managed to get the main topsail hoisted though still need to rig the halliards, sheets etc etc. Take care all Keith
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Nice , i have built this kit three times now with two altered slightly with a scratchbuilt smaller wheelhouse and one as a stern trawler, Keep up the good work. Keith
- 34 replies
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nice work Keith- unfortunately i live to far from the narrow gauge railways in wales for a day trip, but we do have the Ravenglass & Eskdale Rly (a.k.a. "la'al ratty) miniture 15" gauge railway which runs 8 miles from ravenglass to eskdale near Scaffell Pike (if local pronounce it scawfell) 😉. Keith
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The wheelhouse was mentioned in Lansings book and i think that is a part of it being lowered over the stern on the pictures. i have seen a picture somewhere and it was on legs with slots in the sides to allow for the steering chains (looked twice as wide as any i have seen on models). Though like you i am just going to model without as i cannot get enough info to reliably model. the cover over the stern rails is a canvas wind dodger (also it looks like the stern rail had a wooden toprail). Keith
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Back in shipyard for awhile today and managed to finish the main tops'l yard. Next will have to stitch the seams on the sail and add the reefing ropes. on a different topic for the first time in 18 months my son and myself took a trip down to Keighley and Worth Valley Steam Railway, we also took my step mum along, it was really nice seeing mams, dads, grandparents and children all smiling and enjoying the experience (even the very young boy who ran to his mother shouting "mam mam the trains on fire" his mother had to explain the basics of steam engines and the fire/ steam principle)! Take care all and have fun Keith
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They did build a house over the steering gear as they took it with them for a shelter when they abandoned ship, but it was bigger than what occre suggest. i will most likely replace the supplied wheel with one from caldercraft and model the steering exposed as per photos from earlier in the expedition. Keith
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looking good- as regards catheads i always leave them till as late as possible as they are prone to getting "pranged"- dry fit and add late as possible. Keith
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Ty HakeZou- i wasn't sure whether i was going to be able to pull it off to be honest as first time i have modelled a stern planked like this intending to leave it just varnished (previous kits like this {ie cutty sark} i built are painted and just used ply/ balso formers which were painted over with high build primer). My fingers are just starting to forgive me from being steamed! Keith
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the camera is a cruel mistress when photographing models! i keep looking at the occre deckhouse and think "hmmmm on plans and pics i have seen there are arched top windows not portholes at the aft part😇. As you build more models your skills improve, Keith
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thanks for looking in and comments/ likes everyone. not much happening with terror at the moment, but have nearly finished the main topsail yard. take care everyone. Keith
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Having read Lansings account i agree about the dog huts, Model is looking good- i tend to use occres instructions as a loose guide, but i do have 30 + years experience with wooden ship kits so kind of know what to watch out for (still get caught out sometimes though)! Have you thought about adding bootstriping to the waterline? Keith
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HMS Terror by Icksa - OcCre - 1:75
clearway replied to Icksa's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
soak the bulwarks in cold water for an hour or so- i found hot water "melts" the glue holding the ply together. Keith -
Nice work and a nice looking schooner- and another polar exploration vessel casts off in MSW😁. Keith
- 127 replies
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- Bowdoin
- Arctic Exploration
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regarding stowage of the boats- on the plans i bought from the N.M.M and some of frank hurleys photos ther are actually boat skids for the forward boats to rest on- the after boats look like they are hung from the davits (see the pic you put on with the white painted hull). They would have swung the boats out for readiness once in the ice pack. One other aspect i am wondering about is when were the dog huts built on the quarter deck? Keith
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i would have gone with red too if painting mine, they actually used red lead in the paint mix traditionally on wooden ships if memory serves me right. Keith
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HMS Terror by Icksa - OcCre - 1:75
clearway replied to Icksa's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1801 - 1850
Welcome to what keith s describes as the little terror club😁. I always use matt acrylic varnish for wood work , but don't apply it til all fittings are fastened in place. If altering the dimensions of the masts now is a great time to enlarge the holes and slots. I used 6mm for the mizzen, 8mm for the main and 7mm for the fore and bowsprit. Really depends how much you want to alter the kit to make it more realistic. Keith -
Thanks and sounds like they might have listened! Don't forget to checkout keith s and daniel d' s Terror build log as we have been bouncing ideas off each other for over a year now and his build is pretty spectacular too. Keith
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