hof00

Nice!! 🙂 Brings back some memories. Happy to try and lend a hand if needed. I'll follow along. also. Cheers....HOF.

Hi Ian, I used Vallejo Light Grey 71.050 and Sea Grey71.049 (I don't know if they are 100% historically correct) Baltic Stripes are Black and White. One person who could most definitively answer is @Joe100 I guess you could have a test "Off-Ship" with a selection first. "Scale Effect" probably needs to be factored in? Are you going the "Full Monty" Baltic Stripes? Cheers....HOF.

Many thanks Gentlemen, I have taken your advice very firmly on-board!! 🙂 Cheers and Regards, Harry.

Hi Chap, I am quite happy with Vallejo Matt. Wot's your experience with that? Cheers.... HOF.

Hi All, Just a question that came to mind after viewing "Channell's" Trumpeter Bismarck log. In that log there were a few comments regarding paint adhering, (Or not), to the plastic that Trumpeter kits are made of. Does anyone have experience of the above? Cheers and Regards, Harry.

Agree, The "Sea Chest" grills go on very nicely. The Plastic parts leave allot to be desired, my father would have said "By guess and by God. 🙂" The Propeller Shaft Housings, interesting. I had a Paper template/s to position these. One I had carefully shaped the mating surface to match the Hull, i decided to "Key" the Hull and prepped the Housings with a Brass pin, (1.5mm), at each end of the Housing. This gave me correct positioning once I put some thick CA on and pushed the parts together. (Well, that was my madness to the method.... 🙂) Have fun with whatever method you use, it'll be good to see the results!! Cheers and Regards, Harry.

Hi Ian, One other thing comes to mind, when you gat to it that is, My instructions advised to mount the Bow and Stern Flagstaffs prior to installing the Main Railing. I did not find this was a good procedure, The Bow Flagstaff got a real beating due to fiddling with the Railings, I was lucky that I could rescue the Bow Flagstaff and did not mount the Stern one until the Railing was complete. (This did not preclude drilling holes for the Flagstaff installation.) Anyway, just a small detail that may save frustration.... Cheers....HOF.

Hi Ian, That is looking pretty damn sharp!! 🙂 Cheers.... HOF.

Thanks Chap. Yup, the Monofilament is and was awful but eventually had its' day.... 🙂 Cheers....HOF.

Thanks Gentlemen, Appreciated. 🙂 Ian, have a look at the Stanchions that you were provided and "Guage" the holes. My Stanchion holes were 0.3mm, 0.4mm would be better. I'm thinking the "Prod" version may have a larger hole to facilitate threading the awful Mono-Filament stuff. Even so, it was beyond me how you'd thread the Stanchions in-situ, 1: With ought kinking the stuff, drawing it through and 2: If the Stanchions holes are not in-line, the thread won't go through either. My Stanchion spacing was not to the kit specs either, there should have been about 146 on either side, mine ended up 135 inc. the Boe in front of the Hawse holes. Another issue I had, was painting my Stanchions thus having to drill out all the Stanchion holes. 🙂 @rvchima, (Rod), advised that he Blackened his Stanchions, very wise!! You could always PM Rod for extra insight here. All in all, the Railing helps immensely to just "Finish" things nicely. (I still dislike immensely the Mono-Filament stuff provided, it did eventually have a use.... 🙂) Cheers and Regards, Harry.

Yup, I was eight also living in Eastbourne. The wind was really something!! I heard also at the time that it was two storms colliding but called the Storm "Cyclone Giselle." (Please correct me if I am in error.) Cheers....HOF.

Hi All,. It's been a while since I last posted but time for an update.... Main Deck perimeter Railing complete. I procrastinated for quite some time about this. Supplied Stanchions used eventually and the dreaded Mono-Filament material. As much as I tried to thread Stanchions, (After a few test-fitted), it was almost impossible!! I had a breath and decided to dill out all of the Stanchion holes with a 0.3mm drill, I had pre painted these also. So, I don't know if the Amati production kit has holes of greater than 0.3mm. Rod, (rvchima), threaded his Stanchions in-situ with no issues, he said the task was easy. (That was the inference anyway.) I decided to drill all the holes around the Deck with a default of 9.5mm, there were a few exceptions. So 62 to Midships and 66 to the Stern, the Stanchions were threaded on to the Mono-Filament, three threads, top, middle bottom and then plugged into the holes drilled. The join, Midships required a bit of fast thinking, I drilled out a couple of Stanchions to 0.45mm to accept the threads from the Bow and threads from the Stern sections of railing, a touch of CA an done. (I'll attach some photos of these. It took some time but not as much time as trying to thread Stanchions in-situ. And yes, I received the Eduard PE Chain Link Railing, nice but not suitable for this beastie. 🙂 Not much left to do: Paint Touch-ups Stern Flagstaff Anchor Buoys Accommodation Ladders (Probably) I should also mention that my good lady helped me in no small way with the Railing. (I still have limited use of my right arm.... ☹️ Cheers....HOF. Photos:

Very nice indeed!! Good progress also. Cheers....HOF.

Damages the Bilge Keels also.... (If unmodified.) Better to discard, Kindling perhaps?

Hi there, The Channels attach on the 1st Rail (Monkey Rail?) above the Deck so, if pinning, they will not be pinned directly to the Bulwarks. The top of the Rail and top of the Channels are flush. (My experience anyway.... 🙂) A few photos of the Mantua version under construction attached showing Channels. Cheers....HOF.

One other thing that comes to mind, When you get around to making the Channels, I found the best way for myself to get a consistent hole spacing for Deadeye Strops was to "Template" these things. If you want to have a look, my CS is on this site under HOF00. Anyway, I think I have rambled on enough for one day.... 🙂 Cheers....HOF.

Sorry, maybe to clarify, The Wood part, Channel, can also be used to secure the Deadeye Strop with a drop of CA. This should be ample to take the Shroud tension with the Strop also fixed into the Waterway. (Pins for securing the Channel can be made from Planking Pins, Drill a small hole on the Bulwark side of the Channel but not completely through. Keep the Pointy end of the Pin to mark the location on the Bulwark, remove the Channel, drill holes for the Pins, test fit and when happy, CA of wood glue or both.) Anyway, you are probably well aware of "Pinning" stuff. When I built my Mantua version the Mizzen Deadeye Strops were wound together immediately below the Deadeye and CA'd. The twisted Strop provided more contact area for the CA through the Deck. Inboard Deadeyes/Chainplates and Channels were something unique to me at the time. 🙂 Cheers....HOF.

Yup, You could insert Brass Pins in a few locations along the length of the wooden Chainplates and pin to the Bulwarks using CA. I am also assuming that the Deadeye Strops are wire? Dill holes in the Waterways to accept the Strop ends and CA. Do a "Mock-Up" with scrap "Off-Ship" and see how it goes first. Cheers....HOF.

Forgot to mention, I'll follow along with interest!! Cheers....HOF.

Very nice!! Although I have made the Mantua version, I have this kit in storage for "Someday. 🙂" How did you get on with the single POB? (The material is quite "Hefty" in thickness. Are you planning Sails or "Bare Bones?" Cheers.....HOF.

Nice!! One luxury that Amati provide over the "Partwork" is the Portlight/Stern Grab Handle PE. Enjoy the filling & sanding!! 🙂 Cheers and Regards, Harry.

Hi there, Your Bismarck is looking good!! There are a few build logs for this here, some are Amati but essentially the same as the Partwork thingy. rvchima,/ted99/ianb and myself. Mine is almost finished, have a look at the build log under HOF00 Anyway, I hoe you can secure all 140 parts/issues. (Ebay or similar) Happy to offer advice/assistance. Cheers....HOF.

Looking really good!! (Nice workshop space also. 🙂) (HOF is still struggling with the Main Deck Railing but I think that my solution is working, I'll post soon also.) Cheers and Regards, Harry.

Hi Chap, Sorry to see this abandoned. Couldn't agree more with the two comments above so have no sage advice as it has already been said. On a positive note, I am really looking forward to your next buildf log, I hope this will be soonish!!! Cheers and Regards, Harry.

Hi Chap, I found no perceptible "Sheen" with Nil Varnish at all. It penetrates the thread and sets up very quickly. You only require a tiny drop for each knot. You should find that the individual Ratlines remain flexible, i.e they droop slightly between the Shrouds. I think I mentioned prior that if there's an error, you should be able to remove the offending thread twithought having to rework entire Shroud Gangs. Cheers....HOF.