GuntherMT

So after posting the above about this model being packed away, I completed most of the immediate preparation for my big scratch build I plan to start, and found myself with a sudden desire to get back into the shop.  It will probably be at least another couple of months before I have everything I want in place to start the scratch build, so I made a few different clamps as prototypes, then for whatever reason since Chuck had posted and brought this back up from the grave after 2 years, I pulled it off the shelf and have continued the build.

If I don't finish it before starting the big project, I'll try to keep it out and work on it from time to time.

In any case, lets post an update!  I've made a bit of progress as I didn't want to post an update and then immediately shelve it again, so this will be a fair bit of progress plopped into one post.

First up, of course I needed to build the 3 piece frames, as none of them had been assembled yet.

As seen in many other build logs, the assembly of these frames is very straightforward thanks to the design of this kit with the laser guide line.  Cut out the pieces (1 frame at a time), clean off the char from the few areas needed per the instructions, and use a straight edge and the laser cut guide line to locate the floor.  Glue up, clean up any extra glue and clamp to set.

After this of course you just continue assembling frames and dry fitting them into the build board and keel.  Slight sanding needed for fitment, otherwise no issues at all.

I assembled the frames and fit them 3 at a time until they were all complete.

Continued next post... 

Very nice update, thanks.

Why the name change?

49 minutes ago, cog said:

I don't like it, sorry, just like the unnecessary hype to ruin history all over the globe by a certain  group. You do not need to like history but it defines where you come from. If you deny that, you deny who you are.

Choosing to build the ship at a later date isn't denying history though, he's building the ship when it carried a different name. 

I like the renaming Mike.  Was slightly confused when a ship I'd never heard of came up in my notifications though!  Lol..  

Nicely done.  I'm curious about the little tags you have attached to the bases, I assume the numbering system on them means something?

6 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

That's not an oar Richard it is the bar for turning the windlass, the oars  are around two thirds the length of the boat. 😉

 

As a hint to the quiz - look to the rudder area , but this is not as straightforward as it may seem.🤔

 

B.E.

The traveler is blocked by the tiller.  Jibing would be pretty exciting if removing and replacing the tiller became part of the process.    The tiller should probably be under the traveler.

Congratulations Jean-Paul, and well done!

I will have to make sure to find and follow your future projects. 

Happy New year!

2 hours ago, Rik Thistle said:

On the subject of using the Search function on this excellent website, is there a way to search for exact phrases eg 'drfiter steam capstan' and only that complete phrase.

 

If I search for that phrase it seems to be treated as three separate words eg drifter, steam and capstan ...with the resulting long list of results usually containing one or two of those words only but not the exact phrase.

 

I've maybe missed the way of doing phrase search selection in the instructions so apologise in advance.

 

Richard

 

 

Yep, you just do exactly what you did in your post, enclose your search in quotation marks.

Example "Steam Capstan" will only return results with the phrase.  Just searching for Steam Capstan defaults to returning results with either Steam, or Capstan or both.

2 hours ago, Freebird said:

I’m in the northeast,  Connecticut 

Gilmer will ship to you.  It won't be cheap mind you as you are shipping a chunk of wood, but they usually have some good pieces of American Holly in stock.

8 hours ago, Freebird said:

Rusty,

 

Thank you for the reply - much appreciated! Now the question is, where can you find holly? It seems to have all but vanished. Thoughts?

 

Before starting on Cheerful, I need to get at least 1 build under my belt, and that’s where Chuck’s Medway Longboat comes into play. More to come later.

 

Rick

You can get Holly from Gilmore Wood Company, but you need to mill it into the proper sizes yourself:

https://www.gilmerwood.com/categories/38-boards-and-blanks/products?utf8=✓&filter=Holly&category=

18th Century Longboat sold.

Hello Michael,

I saw your post in the 2 build log challenge and thought I would peek in.  It looks like you are doing a top-notch job so far!

I've never taken a look in here for a fairly simple reason - these big first raters really don't interest me as I don't find them to be good looking!  However, the building processes are likely very much the same, and your planking looks fantastic, especially for a first planking that will be covered up.  I'll follow along for a while but may not have much to say due to my lack of experience with anything with more than 6 guns. 

Fair American Sold.

Niagara and Sopwith Camel models confirmed sold.

53 minutes ago, ah100m said:

If the Fair American is still available will you accept $90?  Paypal and ship UPS to Florida.

 

Happy New Year!

 

Bill Schmidt

 

Bill, please PM me the postal code and I'll get the shipping estimate to you and we can work this out.  Please remove your email address from your post and send it in a PM so that the web crawlers don't find it!  I'll go ahead and shoot you an email so you have mine if you prefer that method of communication.

34 minutes ago, Sea Hoss said:

Is the Niagara still available? If so, I will buy ti for full asking price. I always have liked this model. Thanks...

Sea Hoss - the Niagara is pending sale, if that falls through I will PM you.

37 minutes ago, Chuck said:

Any progress on this longboat.   Your model up to this point is looking fantastic.   Hope you didnt give up on it......

 

Happy New Year by the way.

It's packed away right now Chuck.  I'm having problems with motivations working on kits for some reason so I will be starting a scratch build project in the next couple of months.  I may use the longboat as something to go back to and work on if I get frustrated on the scratch build, but time will tell.

There is certainly nothing wrong with the kit whatsoever, it's just me!

Rich,

If you are breaking the frames, you could consider gluing temporary beams between the sides of the frames to brace them, or even place a temporary riband (or just a plank) along the inside of the frames.   Use PVA so you can just use alcohol to release them later, or use something soft like basswood and just cut them off and sand when no longer needed!

Good day all, I've got a number of kits that I acquired back when I first got into the hobby and thought I was going to be putting out a ship every few months (man was I wrong).  At this point I am moving towards scratch building and do not think I will ever touch these kits, so I'm offering them up for sale.

Shipping origin will be the area of Phoenix, AZ.  Shipping will be added to the price and I can ship via USPS or UPS, buyers preference.  I will accept Paypal.  Feel free to make reasonable offers, especially if you are interested in more than one kit.  I've tried to price them a bit better than the best price I think Model Shipways would ever put them on sale for.  I would also be happy to meet with anyone in the Phoenix area, and visit the San Diego area fairly often so could make arrangements for anywhere between Phoenix/San Diego if you aren't in a rush.

All kits are opened (but complete) unless noted below.  Some of the plan sheets spent several years up on my workshop wall for inspiration and looks reasons.

1) Model Shipways 18th Century Longboat.  -  $30 - Sold

2) Model Shipways Fair American - $100  -- Sold

3) Model Shipways Pride of Baltimore - $100 - Sold

4) Model Shipways Niagara - $150 -- Sold

5) Model Airways Sopwith Camel F1 - $100  -- Sold

6) Model Shipways USS Constitution - Sold 

Feel free to ask for more information either here or via private message.

Thanks to everyone for their interest in these kits.  I hope everyone enjoys the kits and I hope to see some or all of them show up here on MSW as build logs in the future!

Welcome aboard.  That is an incredibly beautiful kayak!

Victory is one heck of a project to bite off for a first build, good luck!

4 hours ago, Mike Y said:

Thanks Gaetan, nice to know!

 

Sometimes I wonder how everybody else drills the treenail holes inside the hull? Most of the build logs omit that process, just showing a thousand neatly aligned holes  I can't believe that it's all drilled by hand with a pin vice, especially since it is too long to reach some areas on the extremums of the hull. 

I think I included a little bit about it in my AVS log, but I could be wrong.  I just chucked up a small drill in my Dremel using a flex-line thing so it's easier to handle, then used lines of thin masking tape (the Tamiya model masking tape) on the deck to give myself guide lines and then hand drilled all of them.  They aren't perfectly aligned, but then neither are the real thing on real ships!

I agree that the bottom image's extra detail makes it look nicer.  Either would be very nice though.

On 12/24/2020 at 2:15 AM, Bob Cleek said:

Wipe on polyurethane is simply thinned polyurethane varnish or "clear coating," if you will. It's marketed for folks who don't want to go to the trouble of mixing their own and for that convenience they pay the price of polyurethane varnish for a can half full of far less expensive thinner.   The same result can be achieved using a mixture of half boiled linseed oil and half turpentine. Either way, the "preferred technique" is getting it on the wood however works for you, and then wiping off the excess before it starts to dry. It's really no different than any other oiled wood finish, save for the chemical components of the coating itself. As the man says, "Follow the directions on the can."

 

How many coats to apply and whether you feel the need to sand or not are matters of personal taste. As with all finish and wood species combinations with which the user is not completely familiar,  one should always test the application on a piece of scrap wood of the same species (and preferably the same color, if colors vary in the species) to ensure the result desired. Nothing's worse than ruining a work piece with a botched finish!

 

 

 

For someone using a large quantity like a full sized furniture workshop, I can understand mixing my own for cost savings, but for a small hobbyist usage like model ships, it's just not worth the hassle IMO when a single small can will last me for multiple models or until I leave the can open and let it dry out.. lol.. 

The ease of use (shake can, pop open top, apply to rag, use) vastly outweighs the cost savings of mixing it myself.  

If the wales are pre-bent and have no stress trying to pull them away, you should be able to just hold them in place for 5-10 minutes by hand until they set up, and not need to clamp them at all.  I've found that if my PVA is just a very thin coat (not runny at all, just a super thin coating) and I put that on both pieces prior to gluing and let them tack up just a bit, then finger pressure is sufficient for them to grab and not need clamping at all unless they are not pre-fit correctly.  I did a lot of my hull planking without any clamps at all using this method.

An alternate method if you don't want to pin as suggested by Chris is your rubber band method.  Just use some light scrap wood blocks to run the rubber bands around so that they are pressing against the wale.

I love your little drill!  Does that little motor have enough torque to drill decently or are you constantly balancing stopping the motor if you push a bit too much?  Regardless has to be faster than doing it all by hand!

My only change would be to use a foot switch instead of the other hand for a button so I could use my hand to hold the stock or steady my drilling hand, but I'm getting old and need all the help with stability I can get.

What sort of power supply are you using?

Hey John,

On the painting the best advice I can give you is that surface preparation is key to good paint appearance.  I think your parts are basswood?  That's what Model Shipways provides for most things.  Unfortunately basswood is very soft and 'fuzzy' which means it needs a lot of paint preparation in order to look crisp after painting.

I'm not really the best person to ask about painting since I do it only minimally, but I know that on a soft wood like that you need to do things to 'raise the grain' (wet it with water or alcohol) and then sand it back, sometimes multiple times, and then you need some sort of a wood sealer or at the very least a good primer which would be sanded back again, or maybe just buffed if it was good.  All of that would be done before spraying on your color coat, and then at some point followed up with a matte clear finish that you could buff with tissue for a nice finished look.

I'd check in the paint technique subforum to get better advice, as like I said I do the least amount of painting possible on my models, preferring to leave natural wood finishes (although this does mean I also have to replace all the kit basswood with something else if it will be visible).