GuntherMT

5 hours ago, tomsimon said:

Is it safe to say that gap filling, CA, medium glue is the same as pva or would pva be better suited because it can resist stress better?  

CA isn't even close to the same as PVA.  Yellow wood glue is PVA (as is normal white glue).  CA is 'super glue' type glue which comes in various speeds and thicknesses but shares common attributes with, including that it will stick to your fingers (or anything else) and if it gets on a visible wood surface it will be extremely difficult to remove as it will soak into the wood fibers and create a super-hard spot that will show up through almost all finishes as even paint sometimes.

As I said above, I try to avoid CA at all costs when working with wood.  If I need to bind wood to metal or some other material CA is one possibility, but an epoxy would be a better solution whenever possible.

Like all your other self-made tools, this is a work of art as well as a useful tool!

Merry Christmas to you and your family Rich, and a Happy New Year as well!

Lookin' sharp!

6 hours ago, Rik Thistle said:

Bob,

 

That's six inches of grain to shrink tangentially and even at a rate of movement of one percent, you are getting close to a sixteenth of an inch, which would be a quite noticeable crack in a model's topsides.

 

Yes, that does make me stop and think. Useful info, thanks.

 

As a non-sailor but ex-engineer how do full sized wooden boats and ships cope with that movement....pumps?

 

Richard

 

Traditional wooden boat construction does not edge glue the planks (they don't glue the planks at all actually) and there is a built in gap at the surface of the planks that they pound caulking into to seal the planks.   Basically there is a flexible 'gasket' between each plank to stop water ingress so some swelling or shrinkage shouldn't be a problem because they handle it in the design/construction.

Did not see this while you were in progress, but just wanted to say nice job, that's a great looking little boat!

I use nothing but PVA (wood glue) for the vast majority of my construction and for all of my planking, no reason IMO to use the super-glue type glues if you properly shape your planks before fitting.  If you get super-glue type glues on a wood surface that you don't plan to paint, it can be impossible to remove the stain left which can soak deep into some types of wood.

Hello Scott!  As another Phoenix area resident, I welcome you to MSW.

Just one guys opinion, but I much prefer the larger pictures where you said you couldn't insert comments.

Not sure how it looks on your Chromebook, but the forum should handle all your photo's without any problem, which puts them in a 'pool' of images to use in your post.  

You type whatever you want to type, and wherever you want an image you place the cursor and then scroll down to your images and click the "+" (plus) sign on that image and the forum software inserts it into your post at that location.

If you don't do that step, then all the photo's will just be at the end of your post.

My method is generally to upload and insert one photo at a time while I'm typing in the post so that I get them all where I want them.

3 hours ago, Jim Low said:

I’m steadily moving forward, and I promise to share pictorial evidence of my progress once I’ve swallowed my pride. At this point I have completed hull planking/painting, decking and rails and am now moving on to deck furniture and gizmos. I am scratch building what I have to, but my carpentry skills are better suited to normal sized lumber, so my furnishings don’t show the remarkable level of skill I’ve seen on other build logs. Oh well, learn by doing.
 

One question I will throw out there to any of you who have worked on a Model Shipways build, particularly those who have worked on the Latham or the Bluenose.  How much should I suffer through trying to get the Brittania metal hardware to function anything like the plans call for?  I’m speaking mainly about the construction of the capstan.   Has anyone actually created the capstan assembly that they diagram?  The pieces don’t have holes where they should, and the microscopic hardware they call for (e.g. clevis pins that measure about 0.1 mm in length) appear to be unrealistic. I’m tempted to bypass realism for generous applications of CA. Also, did anyone notice that the aft view of the assembly in the instructions reverses the P/S orientation as shown in the plans??  Thanks.  

 

The only white metal parts from my MS kit (AVS) that I used were part of the anchors, the mast hoops, the fitting where the main-mast and top-mast connect and the ships wheel.  Oh, and the fitting where the bowsprit and jib-boom attach.  All the other cast metal parts went in the bin, I replaced all of it because it's pretty universally garbage in my opinion.

Coming along nicely and looking good.  If I lived anywhere even close to a lake I would definitely want to build something like this.  Would be a great way to get some exercise paddling around a lake!

Looking good.  Sanding tip for soft wood (I'm unsure if this is a double planked model or if that is the final planking and will be painted) - get the wood damp.  Don't soak it, just run a wet cloth across it.  That will cause the grain to raise, then when it's dry give it another final sanding and it will smooth out very nicely.

You could also simulate both ends $10 for 25 - 
Simulated Nut end - https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/products/simulated-hex-nut-brass-nickel-plated-1-2-mm-sn12n

1 hour ago, jwpage said:

I have been buying from Micro-Mark.  I am using 1/16" brass rods for the bolts and threading 0-80 on the ends.  I will look at the link above and see what they have.  Thanks

Looks like $8 for 20 nuts - https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/products/nuts-hex-head-0-80-brass-z071b

Washers $6 for 50 - https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/products/washers-brass-1-6-mm-k023

On 12/14/2020 at 6:12 AM, glennard2523 said:

Hi Jim

Thanks for your information. I had run out of acetone, but I have a new supply on order which should arrive later this week.

I used white vinegar to clean all my metal parts for blackening without an issue.  I have acetone but only work with it when absolutely necessary as it's quite toxic and can be absorbed through the skin.

Congratulations and nice work.  You can proudly display that wherever you want.

You don't say where you are getting your scale hardware now, so hard to say where to get it cheaper.  The only place I'm aware of for things like this is https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware

Alternative method would be to buy the stock and buy tiny jewelers taps and dies and make your own, no idea where to source that stuff and I'm sure it's not cheap though.

Congrats on completing your first scratch build, looks good!  Nice to see someone building the Star, I've never gotten to see her sail, but I've been onboard many times.  

26 minutes ago, Jorge Diaz O said:

Buenas noches, el 5 de diciembre te compré 3 libros, Aparejar una balandra de sexta categoría de guerra 1767-1780,  Fragatas de la Royal Navy HMS EURYALUS (36) 1803 A Plank on Frame Model, Volumen I de Allan Yedlinsky y Wayne Kempson y las fragatas de la Royal Navy HMS EURYALUS (36) 1803 Modelo de mesa sobre bastidor, Volumen II de Allan Yedlinsky y Wayne Kempson. Por favor, dígame cuándo me lo envían, por qué medio de transporte y el código de seguimiento, el código de seguimiento es muy importante. Espero que me respondas.

 

 ATTE, 

Jorge Díaz,

ciudad de Tocopilla

Chile.

Spanish translation for Bob - 

Good evening, on December 5th I bought you 3 books, Rigging a Sloop of the Sixth Category of War 1767-1780, Frigates of the Royal Navy HMS EURYALUS (36) 1803 A Plank on Frame Model, Volume I by Allan Yedlinsky and Wayne Kempson and the Frigates of the Royal Navy HMS EURYALUS (36) 1803 A Plank on Frame Model, Volume II by Allan Yedlinsky and Wayne Kempson. Please tell me when you send it to me, by what means of transport and the tracking code, the tracking code is very important. I look forward to hearing from you.

5 hours ago, Keith Black said:

Why do you need a narrowing profile? I would think more the material the merrier. That narrowing to a rounded point looks sweet but is that necessary? You say, look at the extra material cost to which I say, look at the extra time and labor cost making closed molds. Let the knee be the same width at the top as they are at the bottom. More material, more strength.....me thinks? As far as the more complex shapes (seems like there were two if my ole memory serves) where there wasn't a center line from tip to tip, then I can see the benefit/necessity of a closed mold but, I would have looked long and hard at an open pour and removing the excess bronze. A little carving if you will seems like it would have taken far less time than making the molds. Making molds is the worst part of the job, I hated that part. Of course sponsors were paying the bill so it's a moot point. And I'm sure it was also a bit of "this is the way they originally did it" kind of thinking.

 I certainly can't fault Leo, his crew or the foundry because the knees are absolutely beautiful things. Were it I, I'd cry buckets for every one that is lost to view. 

I am pretty sure that one of the big reasons for the narrowing profile is weight, especially as high up on the hull as the knees are you want the least weight possible.

In any case, thanks for the reply, I'll stop side-tracking this build log now. 

5 hours ago, Keith Black said:

Pancho is a trip.  Regarding the brass knees...........once upon a time, long ago and far away I worked in a open pour foundry. I don't understand why they chose a closed mold instead of a open pour unless it was the heat issue? All the knees turned out beautiful but I felt so sorry for the guys making up those molds.

How would you make those complex shapes for some of the knees in an open pour?  Or are you just referring to the more basic shaped ones.  Even then, how do you get the narrowing profile, just have to remove all that extra material from the open side afterwards?

Best wishes for everything to go smoothly!

Going to be following along with you on this one.  I really love that we have been starting to see quality kits that allow people to build true POF construction from at least a couple companies.  The future seems bright for the hobby!

I've seen a few pictures of this on the Facebook page, but nice to see you posting it here.   Seems like it's been quite some time since your last update, I hope you haven't given up on this project, or posting it here!

Hi Rich.  Had no idea you were doing this, looks good so far.  

You asked a while back about where to get wood, did you ever get an answer?  If not, what size and type of wood are you looking for?  If you want basswood I have a bunch of different sizes.  If you are looking for more hardwoods, tell me what you are looking for and I can see if I have or can cut what you might need.