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davyboy

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Everything posted by davyboy

  1. davyboy
    Dave, It looks like you are having an "interesting" time with the standing rigging of your S o S model. Looking very good,must have been a bosuns' nightmare then. If you plan on fitting sails with their running rigging,just wait 'til you get to the Fore and Mainsail Martnets It would pay dividends if you get hold of a copy of R.C. Anderson's book The Rigging of Ships in the days of the Spritsail Topmast. There are plenty for sale on Abe Books and this book has much info therein,some pertaining to the Sovereign. There is another book by him,17th Century Rigging which is even better IMO. Not listed on Abe Books just now but should be available elsewhere. Happy rigging Dave
  2. davyboy
    Hi Stergios, The item you have indicated with the yellow line should be on the photoetch supplied with the kit. If they are the same (which is likely) as in the C.C. Cruiser kit the rounded portion is too large and the flat portion too wide,easily fixed with a small file. I had to reduce mine by about 1mm to fit with the yardarm end dimension given on the Cruiser plans and approximately halved the width of the straps as they looked very out of scale. The trucks are for the Topsail Yard ties which should be led through them. They are lashed to the aft Topmast Backstays,their position should be shown on the rigging plans. Dave
  3. davyboy
    Hi Chuck, 1st pic lower right cadmium red light + burnt sienna. The lower colour is very close to the W&N red ochre which I bought,mine looks to me just a tiny shade darker. TBH, I imagine if you bought a specific colour from several different manufacturers there could be a slight difference between them anyway due to the ingredients therein. Probably best if people use the shade of red they like,we don't have time travel so who can say they're wrong Dave P.S. managed to paint the gunport recessed liners ok with a #1 brush.
  4. davyboy
    I decided to "bite the bullet" so to speak,I purchased a tube of Windsor & Newton red ochre from their Galeria acrylic range. It is slightly redder (in my sight) than the bottom row 4th from left in post 13. I have duly painted the bulwarks of my Cheerful build covering the red I had started to use,I'm the Captain and I like it As has been said already paint was mixed on site so there would have been many variations in shade. Just one slight problem,I now have to repaint the outside of the recessed gunport liners (about .040" wide) to match the interior without making a mess on the outer planking :D This has been an interesting thread to say the least. Dave
  5. davyboy
    Hi rob,may I suggest you buy a Proxxon instead of a Dremel. I've a Dremel 398 which I bought 7 years ago,sounded like a bag of nails from the start,and it vibrated as well. I doubt if it's had an hours use since. I've a Proxxon IB/E and 50/E plus other Proxxon tools,cant fault them and they are very quiet running to boot. J.M.O of course. Good luck with your build when you start it. Dave P.S. If you do go for a Proxxon try here :- www.tbs-aachen.de or www.satberlin.de and save yourself a few quid. A fair bit cheaper than UK prices even counting postage. No connection to these companies,just a satisfied customer.
  6. davyboy
    Hi Johann, Your workmanship is impeccable. It doesn't really matter how long it takes until completion,it is the pleasure of the journey which counts. Not the time taken for it. Regards, Dave
  7. davyboy
    Thank you for your input gentlemen. Dave
  8. davyboy
    Was the red paint on the bulwarks etc in English warships actually paint ? On more than one occasion I have read that red ochre was used being considerably cheaper and plentiful. The Admiralty were notorious for being parsimonious with money. I'm aware that on contemporary models red paint was used,but in reality ? Thanks, Dave
  9. davyboy
    Hi Sawdust Dave, Sheer poles were a 19th century innovation I believe and only one was fitted just above the lower shroud deadeyes. The tops on this ship are of a design which didn't appear until the beginning of the 18th century and I'm pretty sure Spanish galleons didn't have spritsail topmasts. I would take anything shown on this ship with a very large pinch of salt,it's a tourist attraction. Please do remove them when you've finished rattling down. Your excellent model would be spoiled by leaving them on. Dave
  10. davyboy
    Hi achuck,they look just like a drawing compass but with both legs having points. Should be available in any shop which sells drawing materials etc. Dave
  11. davyboy
    Pete, His other book 17th Century Rigging is also very good. Some model photo's,a pull out rigging plan of the St George 96 inside the back cover and the drawings (all on fold out pages) are a little larger than the sprits'l topmast book. There are several copies available on amazon,cheap. Dave
  12. davyboy
    Interesting thread, However,according to both Lees and Marquardt trusses were not fitted to English warships until around 1760. The Royal William 100 guns of 1692 was a rebuild of Prince 100 guns of 1670. Just my opinion but this model should not be fitted with trusses but parrels, I believe the RH drawing is incorrect noting that the LH drawing shows only a parrel,no sign of a truss. Dave
  13. davyboy
    Hello Zoltan, Sorry, but I have not ordered from this supplier yet as I already have a good stock of Pearwood and some European boxwood. But I'll likely order from there in the future. I only posted the info for the benefit of any members who might have been interested. Regards, Dave
  14. davyboy
    The Vasa 1628 and The Sovereign of the Seas 1637 both had catheads but they were fitted differently. Protruding forward from the beakhead bulkhead at an outboard angle they were positioned on the upper gundeck as far as I'm aware. No doubt other ships of that time had similar arrangements. Later of course they were moved up onto the forecastle,Goodwin says ca 1656. This can be seen on the Vasa itself and on Paynes' engraving/etching of the Sovereign. Dave
  15. davyboy
    Hello Tony, The leading block allows the fall to be conveniently led inboard to allow the crew plenty of hauling space to raise or lower the yard. A bit more awkward with the fall coming straight down to the cleat,in that case anyway it's likely a snatch block hooked into a deck ringbolt would have been used as a lead. Hope this is of help. Dave
  16. davyboy
    Tom,put my duff gen down to a senior moment I've edited my post. Dave
  17. davyboy
    HMS Belfast. WW2 Light Cruiser 12x6 inch guns. Now a museum ship moored in the river Thames near Tower Bridge London. Dave
  18. davyboy
    NEVER use a steel scratch card to clean files,it buggers the teeth. As Brian says use a fine hard brass brush,a well cut down paint brush will also deal with wood dust in the teeth. I drilled holes in a piece of timber which keeps all my Swiss files separate from each other and to hand. They are too expensive to just leave lying around on the bench or in a drawer My other files are kept in compartmented wallets. Dave
  19. davyboy
    Hi MarcM, I recommend you to fit the channels to the hull by using thin dowel or brass wire,I have done this (using 1mm brass wire) and used 30 minute epoxy throughout instead of glue. They will then not easily come off with a knock. In reality,the channels (made from several planks fayed,bolted or dowelled together) were bolted from the outer edge right through the hull. I would recommend fitting the knees after the channels are on,this allows you to sand them to get a nice fit between the hull and channel. Regards, Dave
  20. davyboy
    Hi Anthony, Sorry but I gave you the wrong title,my memory aint what it used to be There have been a number of Korean films recently on one of the German TV channels I watch,guess I got the titles mixed up a bit. Your DVD Roaring Currents is the film I saw but I'm sure it didn't have that title. The Germans do seem to change the original titles (not a translation problem) of many films I have found. Your model is coming along beautifully,I will be following your build. Dave
  21. davyboy
    Hi Anthony, What an interesting project. Funnily enough I watched a Korean film on TV here recently which had a reproduction of one of these ships in sea battles with the Japanese navy. Wish i'd taken a bit more notice on the construction but I did observe how they were rowed. The oars had a bar fitted which allowed the oarsman to feather the oar when moving it forward to make the next stroke. As you can see from the plans the oars were hung vertically so couldn't be lifted out of the water like a western conventional oar. I don't know if you would be able to get a DVD copy of the film (made in 2003) possibly some good info in it. The German title was I think "Der fluch des dunkeln Sees",the curse of the dark seas in English. Regards, Dave
  22. davyboy
    Oprion, It's easy to remove. You can carefully spring the attachment apart with a screwdriver to allow you to move the pivot pin far enough to remove the blade cover from the splitter. It's only plastic and will bend easily without breaking. No need to dismantle the saw table. I did this on mine with no problem. Dave
  23. davyboy
    Hi Craig,that looks very much like the Unimat 1 or may be a copy of it. Mainly made from plastic and aluminium,I know I bought one years ago,pretty useless bit of kit. Save your money for something better. Dave
  24. davyboy
    Mike,personally I would buy a sheet rather than planks of twice the width which may be insufficient. Just my 2 cents worth. Dave
  25. davyboy
    Hi Jack,these loops are called head cringles and would have been lashed to the spar to stretch the head of the sail out not put round it. Hope this is of help to you. Dave

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