davyboy
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Everything posted by davyboy
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Christian, I´ve been following your Diana build for some time. Very nice indeed,you are doing a splendid job on her. I solved the problem with Jotika deadeye strops by winding a few turns of very fine copper wire tight around the neck and a drop of cyano glue to secure it. Can´t be seen when installed in the channels,I never had any pull apart when tensioning the shrouds. Regards, Dave
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Michael, Can´t see any kit manufacturer producing a kit of a four masted barque these days. I doubt if there would be enough interest to make it financially viable. Do recall that Pamir kit from way back when,think it may have been by Steingräber As Kester has said,have a look at Brown,Son and Fergusons´website. If you would be interested in doing a scratch build they have plans for 6 four masted barques. Archibald Russell. Herzogin Cecilie. Pommern. Mozart. Parma and Queen Margaret. There are also plans for a 5 master Dave
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Daniel, It just gets better and better,absolutely brilliant work. I fully expect that you will be making scale Georgian Furniture for the Great Cabin when you get to that part of your build. Keep up the good work Dave
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Hi Sherry, The deck marked #4 is over what was called the Poop Royale. This was used on French and Spanish ships as accommodation for the ships Pilots and Sailing Masters. On English ships it was known as the Topgallant Poop and was originally where the Ships Trumpeters lived. Dave
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Hi Derek, I haven´t built this model but FWIW I think they expect you to cut these holes yourself at the correct angle so that the cap is perpendicular to the waterline. The top and bottom edges should run parallel with the bowsprit. I built the C:C. HMS Cruiser which came with the holes pre drilled,a waste of time as they were not angled. Had to make a new bowsprit cap,easy enough to do that. Also,it´s worth checking out the mast caps. When I filed out the mortises to fit the mast tenons they were much too large because of the size of the pre drilled holes. Had to replace all the mast caps too all part of the fun of ship modeling I guess Regards, Dave
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Hi Chris, That is one beautiful model you are making. One question if I may,should there not be slots cut in the deck planking to allow the steering gear ropes to move in a fore and aft direction as the wheel is turned ? The rope would wear out rapidly if only going through holes. Ed T shows this on his Naiad build. It would then be easy to slide the rope coils on the drum forward a bit to centralize them. Just a thought though. Maybe American shipbuilders didn´t do this. Happy to see your build back on the forum again,you must be a very busy man with twins to keep you occupied. A 24/7 job for sure. Dave
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Danny, What wonderful workmanship you are accomplishing on your HMS Vulture. Your bulkheads are superb. FWIW,in Goodwins´ Construction and Fitting on Page 116 he states when fitted under the break of the poop the upper section was glazed. I would think this would be the same under the quarterdeck, anyhow yours look great. Also says that each bulkhead section was located at the bottom by the retaining sill which spanned the entire length of the bulkhead,no mention of cut-outs for the doors. He states that these sills were secured to the deck with Muntz keybolts. I would assume that these were easily removeable to allow the sills to also be taken down below when clearing for action. Didn´t have pip-pins in those days Look forward every day to reading your log. Dave
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For members who live this side of the Atlantic found this supplier on one of the German forums. www.modellbau-holzleisten.de There are several suppliers on the first google page,the one you want is Massiveholzwerkstätten Horschig. He has a very good selection, eg 5mm x 100mm x 1000mm Birnbaum (pearwood) & Nussbaum (walnut) plus others at 7 Euros per plank. Well worth a look IMO. Dave
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Jason, There would certainly be train tackles and trucks as are shown in the Trincomalee pic. To save me writing go to the Scratch build logs and look at Rogers´ Syren build log on page 3. That is how it should be set up. Your Snake is looking very good. Breeching rings should be easy to make from brass or plastic tubing,cut off small slices and with a little filing to fit and thick cyano you are in business. Hope that helps. Dave
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Ken,why not just push your drillbit into the pin vice chuck until only .175" protrudes. That´s what I do to control depth,no need to glue tubing on then. Dave
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Hello, Laverys´ AOTS The 74 Gun ship Bellona has a considerable amount of info on rigging. eg. Sizes and length of all standing rigging. There is very little in Whites´ AOTS The Frigate Diana book,so not of much use to you. Dave
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Ian, The main topsail sheet bitts were often a gallows bitt or sometimes a gallows was fitted just fwd of them. Spare topmasts and spars were stowed on these,the fwd ends resting on the aft edge of the forecastle. The largest boat would be stowed on top of these with possibly the smallest boat stowed upside down on it. There was not enough width to place boats side by side. If your capstan is aft of the mainmast it may be possible to stow a third boat on the deck underneath the others. TBH,Lavery is a bit vague on all this giving lots of possibilities. As his book is 25+ years old maybe further research has turned up better info. Perhaps one of our knowledgeable members will be able to give you a better answer,I´m no expert Stern and quarter davits were a late 18th century development on large ships and skid beams (Lavery calls them boat booms) across the waist from the gangways also late in appearing on frigates. Around 1800 according to Laverys´book. Hope this is of help to you. Dave
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Hi Ian, I found this in Laverys´ Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War. " Probably the most important order was that of 1769 which regulated the boats issued to ships of 10 to 36 guns." Frigates of 28 to 36 guns had three boats each,a Longboat,a Pinnace and a Yawl. Ships of 28 guns had longboats 21 or 22 ft, Pinnaces of 28 ft and Yawls of 22 or 23 ft. That would seem to fit roughly with what you are looking for. Dave
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Hi Hamilton,have you looked at the NMM website ? Type in `20 gun ship models´ in the search box,you will find several good photos on pages 3 & 4. You can enlarge them which may give you some other ideas rather than using the Blandford book. Have fun Dave
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Hi Bob,good question. I think that both types of pin were in use all of the time. Lees quotes wood pins (lignum vitae I would think) for small blocks and Iron or Brass pins for large blocks used in English ships. Marquardt quotes pins being made from Lignum Vitae,Cog-Wood (Laurus chloroxylon),Greenheart and Iron in his book 18th Century Rigs & Rigging which covers other countries as well as Britain. Neither of these books mention anything about dates of change from wood to metal. Hope this is of help to your question. Dave
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Hello Gil, What a superb job you are making of this build of the Victory. I have read somewhere that attaching the Topsail Halliard Blocks to the Backstays as shown in the HMS Victory pic was a safety feature so to speak. This was done to prevent them falling onto the deck if the Ties were severed during battle,they could just slide down the Backstays to the Channels. A falling 26" double block could do a lot of damage :mellow: Not sure if this was a permanent fixture though. The Ties did run through trucks on the Backstays as you have done. Keep up the good work Dave
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Hi again Hamilton, Glad to read you have found a copy of Lees at a reasonable price. All the belaying info for a 20 Gun Ship is on pages 170 - 172. No cleats were fitted to shrouds for belaying in this time period on 20 Gun Ships. Regards, Dave PS,see you´re Canadian. Are you in Hamilton Ontario ? My sister lives there.
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Hi Hamilton, In Lees Masting and Rigging Book there is belaying information for a 20 gun ship circa 1719. The only belaying pins called for are 3 per side on racks at the foot of the Mizzen Mast and 7 per side on racks attached to the Mizzen Shrouds. Re Staysails,Lees quotes Jib,Fore and Main Topmast Staysails,Main Topgallant and Mizzen Topmast Staysails. Hope this is of some help to you. Dave
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Glad to have been of help Peter. As you wrote,much easier to correct now rather than later. Dave
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Hello Peter, I have been following your build for some time,excellent work indeed. One thing though,it appears that you have rigged your mainstay collar wrongly. It should be lead through that hole in the Stempost (you can see the hole below the Bowsprit in your 3rd pic) and not around the Bowsprit. Maybe an error on the plans showing how you have done it. Keep up the good work Dave
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Cool tool lathe Unimat (moved by admin)
davyboy replied to Sjors's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Sjors, I bought one of these Cooltool I classics several years ago. It is ok for turning down masts,spars and other small wood items only. As others have said it is underpowered and also inaccurate in its other applications. Much better to look on Ebay or similar sites for a good second hand Unimat SL or similar lathe. Dave -
Using Blacken-IT
davyboy replied to fnkershner's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I always polish up brass or copper parts with fine (green) scotchbrite before cleaning and blackening. I´ve found this gives a good surface for the blackening process as doing this removes any oxidisation on the part. I use a 5 to 1 mix leaving the parts in for 5 minutes,or longer if required. Never had any problems with flaking. Dave -
Hi Jay, That is a very fine model you are building. One thing I have noticed is that your jeers have treble upper and lower blocks. In this case the standing part of the jeer rope should start from the mast head and not the yard as you have done. When the standing part starts from the yard only double blocks are required on the yard. Regards, Dave
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Pat, Lovely job on your masts and tops,however I have a question. In your photo of the fore and fore topmast the top rope sheaves are running in the fore and aft plane. Is this how they were fitted on the Endeavour ? Lees says that top rope sheaves ran diagonally,the lower sheave fwd port face to aft starboard face and the upper sheave fwd starboard face to port aft face. Not criticising,just curious. Kind regards, Dave
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Hi Tom, Have a look in the HMS Sphynx scratch build log by Alex M. It shows how he makes his mouldings. Dave.
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