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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Good info on your PE prep. Need the vinegar bath to really clean and etch the brass. 👍
  2. The muzzles look like old blunderbusses, although the ones in the photo do look oversized, too. Muzzle opening seems a little smaller than a sailor's noggin. The model photo is shot much closer than the average viewer will be eyeballing your build.
  3. There used to be a guy who sold a cast weight for the nose. It would work unless you planned on showing off the radar antenna. I wish I could remember his name, sorry. You may be able to find some other aftermarket goodies for it. This website has some pretty good info, in case you are looking. https://www.cybermodeler.com/aircraft/p-61/p-61_all.shtml
  4. I vote for the bird farm - Akagi. A changeup from all the gun toters.
  5. Yeah, the ship modeling websites, like Steel Navy and Model warships, seem to lack the kinds of discussions the aircraft and armor folks have. Outside of what Greg and a few other MSW members are doing of late, we're in that same boat, so to speak. So, I surf the aircraft sites for tips and techniques. I've been reading up on the painting stuff by a gentleman named Mig Jimenez. He's Spanish, has a line of paint and weathering "fluids" and publishes books, pamphlets and YouTube videos on using his products. The weather will break and you'll be able to tear along with your painting. It's been pouring out here; about 4 inches at least since Tuesday morning. I'm a ways up a hillside, but the runoff raises heck with our gravel road. Several cuts across the road, so we need to crawl out or risk removing the entire underframe.
  6. Hmm, I could get to the carrier paint guide with no hitches. Firewalls? Yes, when you go to the base Cybermodeler website and follow the links, there are a big spread of colors based on scale fade.
  7. I suspect most modern navies use anti-slip paints nowadays. A coat of flat paint should suffice at the scales we build in. This is a paint guide for a US carrier, but it has a number of paint brands and also adjusts for scale. Base chart: https://www.cybermodeler.com/naval/essex/essex_profile33-10a.shtml Scale fade discussion: https://www.cybermodeler.com/color/scale_effect.shtml
  8. I'd use the Lifecolour thinner, since it is formulated for that paint. Without that, I'd use distilled water; no telling what might be added to your municipal water. I wouldn't use the Lifecolour thinner for cleanup, too pricy for that. You could make your own, as this fellow did: https://www.cybermodeler.com/tips/thinner.shtml
  9. Piet, thank you for letting us see a part of your personal connection with the star-crossed ships of ABDA. You've done a superb job in your memorial.
  10. Railroads used something called car cement to seal up the panel seams on metal roofs and that gunk was black to start. Might use a charcoal grey for that. Straight black would be way too dark.
  11. Same here, running Win7 and Firefox, I can see all the pix on this log.
  12. I guess so, Mark. I've seen airplane models done up with salt. Didn't realize you wash off the areas with water, thought it was done dry.
  13. Greg, this chipping fluid you used intrigues me. How do you apply it? Is it random or applied across the whole surface? Do you leave any on the hull after you brush it?
  14. The only time I was dry in Nam was at altitude in my Phantom. Humidity was off the charts. 2inches an hour rainfall to boot. Glad the Connie is traveling well, Ken.
  15. Hmm, another technique. I think I like the pant leg method, a bit of dust/dirt versus grease. Any grease/oils are anathema for our paints sticking properly.
  16. OC, you may want to consider working from the center-line of the ship out to the bulwarks. The superstructure looks like a mountain, so you may want to work from the middle out.
  17. I use both tapes, although I try to cut the blue painter's tape with a straight edge to make sure the edges are sharp. Also stick it on my pant leg to reduce the stickiness of the blue tape.
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