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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Model Railroad Hobbyist (http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/) published a booklet comparing the Floquil paints with Vallejo Model Air, Testor's Model Master and Badger's Modelflex acrylic paints. You have to subscribe, but it's free. Search for mrh-acrylic-painting-guide-post-floquil-landscape.pdf The file is a zipped pdf, in a 22 page booklet but besides the charts, gives a lot of good tips for acrylic painting.
  2. Les, it's a great idea. The various glues, paints and assorted other substances we use in constructing our models can be toxic, some immediately, some over time. I'd break it into the various uses; glues, paints, blackeners, etchants, etc.
  3. Greg, he's gone on holiday to Stockholm. Don't think he took any comms/computers.
  4. Fife rails turned out great, Jesse. Glad you're feeling a bit better.
  5. They're pretty new; no more than 3 years or so. The resin & PE will ratchet up the degree of difficulty, along with the size. But, it's better than 1/700 stuff.
  6. Piet, thanks for the book title. I'll check with my county library. I wonder if Boris will do more ships of that area in 1/350?
  7. Greg, I'll ride along with you on this one, too. I think these Japanese light AA cruisers were the equivalents of the American Atlanta class. The Atlantas were loaded with 5" turrets and lighter for AA protection of the carriers.
  8. Piet, I'll join you for this one. The start of the Pacific chapter of WWII was a sorry one. I've read a few histories, but in depth accounts are rare. The few ships the Allies had in the area seemed to be frittered away. Commemorating these folks via well researched and built models goes a ways to remembering them.
  9. Bill, you're right with those woods. I've been tunnel vision on small scale models and basswood. I use a conditioner on the basswood before staining, but that's not a sanding sealer. Thanks.
  10. No, since you've just sealed the wood. I'd recommend staining first.
  11. That series from Steve Wiper is a good one for references. Craig, I'm in on this one, too.
  12. What Jack said. Most definitely worth it. Floquil is/was good paint, with good coverage. Since bean counters run most corporations nowadays, they have to cut costs anywhere they can. Testors dropped the line because it was probably smaller than the aircraft/armor colors market. I went to acrylics.
  13. Jack, you're probably right on the original buyout date. I remember Floquil in the square bottles, from Imre/Risley or some such. Testors still makes solvent paints in their ModelMaster line. I'm trying to wean myself off the organic solvent paints.
  14. Do a very thorough mix & don't shake it. If you have one of those little battery powered stirrers, use it. The Floquil you have is an enamel., so use a good solvent thinner. If you want to spray it, run it thru some filters to get any lumps out. I store my solvent paints upside down. Floquil was bought by Testors some years back and has been folded into the Testors line. Probably affected model railroaders the most, but with the changeover to acrylic paints, it's not too bad. One of their online magazines (Model Railroad Hobbyist) published a booklet to cross reference the old Floquil/Polyscale paints with Vallejo and Modelflex acrylics. You have to sign up to get to that booklet, but it's free.
  15. Greg, very well done, mate. Love the detail work. I'll try to sit quietly waiting your next build.
  16. Join your local library. Mine has a lot of those titles, the rest they get through a statewide tracking system. And they notify by phone or email. Neptune's Inferno was very good. It struck me as a knife fight at night, in a phone booth.
  17. I'm off to Colonial Williamsburg, in Virginia. It's a reproduction of the city as it was around the times of the American War for Independence. They do very authentic work, so I'll get some pictures at the wagon-makers shop. It's most likely a bit early for your Butterfield stage, Eddie, but can't be too far off.
  18. Nice, Eddie. You'll have to hitch up some beasties to haul it around. Darn near big enough to ride on.
  19. Greg, you'll want to gloss coat the planes. Decals like smooth surfaces. The spray can Testors product is OK, as is Pledge with Future, an acrylic floor wax. It's spray-able for thinner coats. Apply with an airbrush. I use the Microscale red and blue products to put the decals on. They work well with our thinner film decals. There are a few other products out there that are stronger, but you only would use them on thicker film decals. And don't panic if the decals look like they shriveled up on you. Let them dry and they will self level. If you do get silvering (whitish spots under the decal film), just put a drop or two of the setting solution on the spot(s) and let it dry. You may want to put slits in the decal film to get the solution under the film before reapplying the stuff.
  20. I'd be careful with bleach straight out of the bottle; it's a strong caustic. We kill most germs known to man with a ten percent solution. Splashing pure bleach on cloth will eat holes. Stop a caustic with some acidic solution. And do it under a hood or outside.
  21. Jesse, glad to see you back at it. Guess you're feeling a bit better. Lots of good looking gun tackle there.
  22. Greg, your build is magnificent. The weathering - you hit that out of the park! I am blown away.
  23. How visible is the finished area? Main decks (very visible), I'll bet you redo with appropriate woods. Lower down, probably leave it. But, like Patrick said, wait for that clear head before you do anything. Hope that beer was good and you let your problem cogitate in the ol brain juices. However you decide will be the correct one.
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