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Canute

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Canute

  1. One place I'm a happy customer of is UMM-USA. They cater to the armor and aircraft modelers, but good tools are universal. Check their site: http://www.umm-usa.com/ At the least, you'll get an idea of tools you "might" need.
  2. Piet, make sure any and all holes in your base molding are sealed. Those epoxy "waters" will find the holes and you'll pour it onto your floor. We found that out years back, doing exactly that for a wharf scene on a model railroad. Java is looking great.
  3. Nicely done, Mike. The skeletons of those old string bags were ingenious construction.
  4. You have some well trained spiders, Mike. Your rigging is excellent.
  5. Jack, I'm in on this build. Can always feel the need for speed. Rounding off the bolt heads to approximate carriage bolts shouldn't be too difficult.
  6. Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, so the copper and brass blackeners should work on either. Aluminum and pot metals would use different agents. Like Mark said, Liver of Sulfur is one agent. You could also use blackeners from JAX.
  7. Thanks for the link, frolick
  8. Piet, I "liked" your account only because of the effort you've made working through the loss of your father in combat. I salute your efforts to memorialize the bravery your father and his crew exhibited against such odds. I've been reading, Cox and the sources he cites in his book. The heroism of the men who slowed the Japanese juggernaut should never be forgotten.
  9. Model Monkey, a Shapeways company has announced Brodie galley stoves in 1/64 thru 1/100 scales. Link: https://www.shapeways.com/product/LNBLACC6X/1-64-quot-brodie-quot-galley-stove-for-19th-century-ships?li=shareProduct
  10. Nice to have some nice keepsakes done by your mother. And all those fond memories. Cherish them. Nice work on Naiad, too.
  11. Artists acrylics are suitable, but like you said, they need to be primed. I would use a modeling primer, such as the Tamiya sprays; they go on thin. Wash your parts first to remove any oils from the molding process. Most dishwashing liquids will cut the grease. I think Vallejo makes a gold color; I haven't used it. I presume you are brush painting, so thin to a consistency of milk. May take several coats to build up the depth of color you are looking for. The Vallejo line is a good one, with several hundred colors for miniature painting. I'm sure others will chime in with their favorites.
  12. I'm in, too. And in the front row! That spreadsheet is a spot on idea. I've read that Halinski is a top shelf company.
  13. Denis, you're right; the Preiser figures aren't inexpensive. You could save some by buying unpainted ones, but then you'd be painting up all those little figures. What is your time worth? Maybe you could sweet-talk the Admiral into assisting you by painting them for you?
  14. Another source for detailing of US fleet subs is Nautilus Models: http://nautilusmodels.com/orderpage-USA.htm
  15. Check this company out: http://www.archertransfers.com/index.html They have a wide range of rivets and weld lines, along with a lot of other goodies.
  16. Mark, I've found that I can do a couple of steps, then have to go do something on a larger size for a while. Working in Z and N scales, I get part of a window or door done and I'm off on a more eyeball-friendly aspect of the build. Time to break out an Optivisor or strong drug-store reading glasses, too.
  17. Paul Allen's crew has found the wreckage of Lady Lex in 3,000 meters of water in the Coral Sea. See here for details: https://www.paulallen.com/uss-lexington-wreck-located-rv-petrel/
  18. WK, I'm impressed that have taken this medium and done such a nice job with it. You have some good skills working with corrugated cardboard. Keep it up.
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