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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Elijah, you should check into an auto parts store for the Bondo spot glazing putty. It's used to putty over dents on autos, but works well on models, too. It is a little smelly, so work with it in a well ventilated space. You may also consider latex gloves and a vapor mask, too. The cannons and table ware look good.
  2. They print the parts, you get a choice of printable materials. If you have a design ready to go, you'd have to work with them to get it printed. Like Ron says, they have high end printers with finer resolution than a home unit. I have a friend who wanted to print HO scale pipe tees ready to go. He had to adjust the orientation and resolution to the point that the purchaser has to drill out the tees for 0.019" wire (typical train air line for the brake system). My intention was to show a site with a lot of aftermarket details for mostly iron/steel navy ships. The guys building more modern ships may want finer detail on gun turrets and hose reels or replace bridge/conning tower structures. The armor and model railroaders have adopted a lot of these improvements. I'm not a CAD guy, so I'm impressed with the work these folks do.
  3. There is a 3D printing company under Shapeways call Model Monkey. They have a lot of ships parts in a variety of scales and cover Age of Sail to more recent offerings. They have just announced ship's wheels for a number of British and US ships. Here is one page of their catalog: https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey/1-16-1-200-scales Here's one for ship of the line ships wheels in 1:72 scale: https://www.shapeways.com/product/JJNDUKWSQ/1-72-wheel-and-pedestal-for-ships-of-the-line If you want to replace carronades they have them also: https://www.shapeways.com/product/67LWD97AK/1-72-royal-navy-68-pounder-carronades-set-of-2 Scout around their site. Just thought I'd highlight a site that supports the hobby.
  4. Smart move. You'd hate to have to dismantle any work you did while you were ill. As many others have said, there is no time limit to complete a build. You're doing great. Keep it up to your standards. And get rest and drink lots of fluids. This flu season is one of the nastier ones.
  5. Oh, boy, a Spru-can. I'm in. And a front row seat, to boot! And the host bought the beer. Bring over the popcorn maker.
  6. Superb work, Greg. You really make the ship come alive with the detailing and weathering.
  7. Piet, I have a little familiarity with resin castings and acrylic paint, being a model railroader. Acrylic paints may not adhere well to out of the box resin. Make sure the parts are clean, so wash in warm water with Dawn. It'll cut through the release agent from the molds. I've also heard of wiping down the unpainted parts with denatured alcohol. A good primer will help the acrylic adhere better. The blue painters tape could pull color coats off any unprimed resin, so lessen the tackiness by sticking it to your pants and then using it.
  8. Like Dan said, an ingenious way of building the frames. This is going to be a great build.
  9. Scott, I vote for a Hornet. We've seen a modern CV; now we'd like to see a WWII carrier.
  10. Yeah, I like those radial engine fighters from WWII. But my fave is the Spitfire, all Marks. Sorry to kinda steal your log, Greyhawk.
  11. We're our own worst critics. I think your shading looks good, helping to bring out the details. Keep it up!
  12. Ditto for me. You can still make out the planks and tree nails.
  13. Piet, thank you for relating a bit of your history. I salute you. And I salute the crews of the ships of the ABDA command who went willingly to fight the Japanese, despite such long odds. It's like the Spartans at Thermopylae.
  14. Sorry about your loss, Jesse. We lost our Abby about a year ago. Lovely Golden. Take it slow and easy; get your strength back.
  15. Piet, I'll be following, too. It is an obscure portion of history. I read Cox's book to get an even-keeled approach to this chapter of WWII history. I, too, look forward to your construction.
  16. You may want to look at this site. It's for HO and N scale railroad equipment and may be too coarse. But it's brass and stainless parts: http://www.planomodelproducts.com/
  17. Yeah, the aftermarket products available are superb. That AK-130 main gun looks like it could actually fire. And your use of these parts is outstanding, Greg.
  18. Mark is right. Roughing up the spots where you apply the CA helps a lot. Wood can be problematic for CA, especially when applying on end grain. Tends to wick into the wood. Apply a first coat and let dry. This seals the wood for the CA. Then glue your parts together with a second drop of CA. I'm not a fan of CA glue for wood to wood applications; carpenter's yellow glue set up fast enough for me. CA is great for dissimilar materials gluing, like Britannia metal to wood. I'd still rough up the smooth surface and seal the wood, though. But, that's just me.
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