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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Len, the staining is pretty safe; vinegar is a weak acid. I use a similar mix on wood structures; although I've not used baking soda in the mix. Vinegar and very fine steel wool take a few days to make the mixture. Wait longer for darker coloring. The stain is a little more red, since it's iron oxidizing. I'd age the wood somewhat (light stain) and then weather the paint, like Rossi45 says. That's the surface that's worn away. Wouldn't get too crazy with weathering, except on the outsides of the boat. That would have been the hardest part to maintain. Most equipment was fairly well maintained; the engineers and firemen(coal/wood heavers) took great pride in maintaining their engines and related equipment. Think about railroad equipment. Railroad steam locomotives were pretty shiny and well cared for, until the 1950s when they were phased out. The engine crews oiled and polished anything they could reach.
  2. Shackles look good, Jack. GrandtLine makes model RR turnbuckles for 1/48 scale cars, cored for .025 wire. http://grandtline.com/products/mrr/mrr%20car%20and%20loco%20detail%20parts/o%20details/o_box_stock_reefer_tank.html You'll have to scroll down to part # 54
  3. The gun mounts look good. No headaches working on them is a good thing. I ran into that some years back, building double hung windows for some houses in N scale (1/160). The magnifying visor works a charm.
  4. Just be thankful this is brass. I've done some stainless steel PE and you don't get any redos. Your mastery of the Pontos and other brass PE is outstanding, Greg.
  5. I've heard of some Southern "bubbas" drinking turpentine, but... Don't eat those potato chips/crisps while you work. Messes up the super glue.
  6. Take a look at the Tamiya tweezers, if they're not too dear in the EU. I've used a pair of angled and a pair of straight tweezers for a number of years. They are black steel. Hold up a heck of a lot better than the "stainless" steel Pakistani ones. The steel is too soft with the stainless ones. Nice work on the turrets, Carl. Is the amber liquid your "glue"? :)
  7. Not a fan of ships in that period. I do have a 1/350 Trumpeter Z-39 in the stash, but railroads and wood ships are higher up in my working priority. Also a few resin American Civil War beasts in 1/192. Monitor, Virginia(Merrimack)
  8. Beautiful work, Greg. Long ago, I got wrapped around an axle with a 1/700 ship with PE, and that was just a radar set. I have no origami skills.
  9. Carl, I'll grab a front row seat for this build. I'll bring some popcorn, too.
  10. Interesting stuff. The screw sloops are an area needing more study.. P.S. The Deadheads were the overall name for fans and followers of the Grateful Dead, a psychedelic era fusion rock band of the 60's thru 90s. Great jam band. Usually applied to the group who followed the band from show to show.
  11. Nicely done, Mike. The oil definitely enhances the wood. Good luck on the jewelry box. It'll look great.
  12. Professor, I bought the wood for a MSB Battle station that was done by the Lumberyard. The 3 cannon were omitted in the initial package, and I PMed Dave about that. He's on this site, usually showing us the details of the Hahn ship models. The cannon showed up a few days later. There is at least one gentleman who has purchased the wood for a ships. Mike Y is working up the "Cromwell" with Lumberyard wood: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7297-oliver-cromwell-by-mike-y-148-1777-pof-hahn-style/?hl=%2Bdlumberyard+%2Bkits#entry215467 You may want to search this site, using the ship names.
  13. I, too, received this book as a Christmas present. Here are the particulars. Model Building with Brass by Kenneth C Foran ISBN: 978-0-7643-4004-8
  14. Better get the build board off or install catapults. I'm a fan of the old SPAD. She's looking good, bro.
  15. Nicely done on your steering wheel, Grant. Never knew you could machine Delrin so nicely. Thought parts were injection molded.
  16. Ken, love the "CAD" work! Been following along and really like your explanations of work performed, with annotated drawings.
  17. Dave, your SoS is magnificent. Looks ready to sail to a place of honor. And you plan to follow it up with a USS Constitution. WOW. I'm in.
  18. mlohm, the structure will be a great starter for getting used to working with wood. The small sail boat will be a good introduction to ship modeling. Good luck with the build(s).
  19. Jack, that's the key to good soldering, a clean tip. Try a brass scrubby pad; looks like an old Brillo pad, minus the soap. The brass cleans off the old solder without nicking up the iron's tip. Lasts longer that way. I've seen them on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltronics-Solder-Cleaning-interchangeable-Metcal/dp/B00NS49LPU/ref=pd_ys_ir_all_40 Or see if you can find a "sal ammoniac" block. Some of my model railroad friends use one. https://www.amazon.com/Large-Sal-Ammoniac-Tinning-Block/dp/B0051KK252/ref=pd_sim_469_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0051KK252&pd_rd_r=K9C83ZSZTAF4TP66T7Y5&pd_rd_w=EaTYa&pd_rd_wg=lOiwM&psc=1&refRID=K9C83ZSZTAF4TP66T7Y5
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