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Canute

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Everything posted by Canute

  1. Found out something my last visit to the Mariners Museum in Hampton, VA. They are restoring the turret and guns, along with other salvaged parts of the USS Monitor. Excellent location for these transition era ships. And an outstanding museum with many ship models. Anyway, the Monitor could only fire one gun at a time from the turret. And they were afraid to put a full powder charge in each gun for fear of bursting the barrels, so they fired at the Virginia with partial loads.
  2. Carl, no luck finding the kit, doing my scan of my usual suppliers. I do have a DKM Z-39 in the same scale, but have quite a full plate right now. I'll follow you lads for now.
  3. Another option may be Model Monkey on Shapeways. He does both US and British 32 pound carronades in your scale, although they are 1805 designs. Here's a link: https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey/1-16-1-200-scales
  4. Very nice joinery, Mario. And a clear explanation. Follow the doctor/therapist's orders. Getting one's major joints repaired/replaced is a bear, but when the exercises are done correctly, no one will ever know you had the work done. I've had a hip replacement, but have no evidence other than a scar you know where.
  5. Any brand name plastic cement for styrene should work, like Tamiya or Testors. The Tamiya flashes off quickly, so parts should be in place when applied. The Testors has more working time, since it's thicker. Just be careful of any of it oozing from a joint. Wash the parts before assembly to remove mold release agents. Wipe the model off to remove plastic dust and finger oils after assembly with denatured alcohol. Prime with a good quality primer paint, such as Tamiya Fine primer. You can paint with hobby enamels or acrylics. See what your local hobby shop carries(if you are fortunate enough to have one nearby). Good luck
  6. Great work there, Piet. It'll be a fitting memorial. Getting effective water in a diorama is hard work, especially ocean water.
  7. There is also so embossed paper sheets of brick stock that MicroMark pedals. Mark, the firebox looks good. You need to dirty it up, to give it a used look.
  8. Mike, I spent 20 years doing that air to air stuff; 10 or so as an weapons & tactics instructor (think Top Gun). A mere quibble of your display. I love the construction, impressive build.
  9. Add some more banking, so they look like they're turning into each other. That would be a dogfight.
  10. I suspect it already was a bear to fly, with the short wings and ailerons. Very nice work, Mike.
  11. Aha! Those thingamabobs on those turrets are the optical rangefinder covers. Those were Plan B. If the ship's internal fire control systems went down and they had to use local control, these gave them firing info in the turret (ranges, elevations and bearings). They didn't fire their guns via open sights.
  12. Denis, your first shot of those stairs made me think of that Escher print with the stairs. Hoo hah! They are looking good.
  13. Your case looks great, Mike. I love the base parquetry. Excellent display for the Cromwell.
  14. I find when working on the fine details that I need a lot more breaks for the old Mark 1, Mod 1 eyeballs (me wearing glasses). I try to stop before I get cross-eyed. And no such thing as too much light. The bench lighting even gets augmented with a quartz halogen floor lamp aka mini-sun.
  15. One place I'm a happy customer of is UMM-USA. They cater to the armor and aircraft modelers, but good tools are universal. Check their site: http://www.umm-usa.com/ At the least, you'll get an idea of tools you "might" need.
  16. Piet, make sure any and all holes in your base molding are sealed. Those epoxy "waters" will find the holes and you'll pour it onto your floor. We found that out years back, doing exactly that for a wharf scene on a model railroad. Java is looking great.
  17. Nicely done, Mike. The skeletons of those old string bags were ingenious construction.
  18. You have some well trained spiders, Mike. Your rigging is excellent.
  19. Jack, I'm in on this build. Can always feel the need for speed. Rounding off the bolt heads to approximate carriage bolts shouldn't be too difficult.
  20. Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, so the copper and brass blackeners should work on either. Aluminum and pot metals would use different agents. Like Mark said, Liver of Sulfur is one agent. You could also use blackeners from JAX.
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