ccoyle
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Everything posted by ccoyle
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Nazir, one of the best tricks for rigging tasks is to make yourself a set of homemade rigging tools. There's two that I use frequently. Both are made using a bamboo skewer and a sewing needle (purloined from the wife's sewing kit). I used a Dremel cutoff wheel to cut half of the eye from one needle, creating a Y-shaped fork. On the other needle I cut a notch into one side of the eye, creating a C-shaped hook. Then I used CA glue to insert each needle into a pre-drilled hole in the end of a skewer. The Y-shaped tool is used to push lines into tight spaces; the C-shaped tool is for grabbing and pulling lines. These tools are indispensable for tasks like belaying lines. -
Welcome, Ben, from a former resident of the Real Northern California (Humboldt) but currently hanging my hat in the Land of Hot Rain.
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So pleased to see someone else using "push pin clamps" -- I use them, too!
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Don't care for new layout
ccoyle replied to mtdoramike's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
Mike, you can still do that very thing by clicking on the "activity" drop-down menu and selecting "all activity since my last visit." That's what I do. -
Your image sizes are fine. Should you ever need to, double-clicking on an image in the compositing window gives you options for resizing the image. Cheers!
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Yes, we also see the term "protected cruiser" in English-language sources, though I could not tell you exactly what the differences were between "armored cruisers" and "protected cruisers." It implies differences in the degree of armoring, perhaps in thickness and what parts of the ship were protected, but I'm not knowledgeable on that particular subject.
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Lovely little cruiser. I look forward to seeing the results of your efforts!
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Welcome! My BS degree is in the related field of fisheries science. One of my professors was from Connecticut, though the school was in California.
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In your line of work, you have to pay a certain amount of attention to what other people's wallets are willing to say.
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I believe many POB II builders have gone this route. The modern gear does look a bit odd on a sailing vessel.
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Stuff like this is why we need an LOL button.
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He probably would have just whittled away some wood from the framing until he got his pre-cut panels to more or less fit properly. 😋 Well, at least that's what I did.
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Greetings from Southern California
ccoyle replied to Allamagoosa's topic in New member Introductions
Now, wait just a minute ... actually, I agree with that, but since I haven't had a local club since 2003, MSW will have to do! 😁 -
You could try the Bluejacket Jefferson Davis, a topsail schooner. It's a POF kit, but doesn't follow actual POF practice. Nevertheless, it can be built into a striking model.
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It did. Pics later, but basically what happened is that during the lower hull construction, I didn't get the sides flared outward enough. I'm not sure why that happened or what I could have done about it. The lack-of-flare is not much, probably less than 2 mm, but it creates a problem with mating the upper hull sides to the lower hull sides at the stern castle. I will have to think about how to best resolve this issue. Think, think, think ...
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Okay, I got it done. I calculated how much of the dark line I needed, stained it, dried it, completed the windlass, and mounted the stern castle to the main hull -- hooray for me! It took quite a bit of shaping of the forward stern castle to get it to sit properly, and I hope that doesn't come back to haunt me when I get around to attaching the remaining hull siding. Getting the stern castle actually onto the hull was another challenge, because it needs to be glued down in several places, and also the tiller handle has to be put through the aft framing prior to finally positioning everything, and of course all before the glue sets. But it's done. Whew!
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Just a quick update. I have hit a bit of a mental snag. Before I can glue the stern castle to the hull, I need to dye some of the rigging cord. I have the dye on hand (not literally -- that would of course be messy). The problem is that the kit does not specify how much of each diameter of rigging line is included in the kit, nor does it specify how much of each line needs to be dyed for each color (i.e. tan/taupe/natural for running rigging and dark brown/gray/black for standing rigging). So that's something that I will have to figure out. In the meantime, I have been working on a few bits that follow later in the build sequence. Will post pictures once I get the line dyed and stern castle mounted.
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Here ya go, Derek -- you're famous! One hundred likes already since just this morning. 👍
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James is building the second prototype and will be taking photographs for the instruction manuals along the way. Amati says the release date will be toward the end of 2021 -- realistically you might want to add a few months on to that.
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Gargantuan models are not my personal cup of tea as a builder, but I strongly suspect that this will be a big hit for Amati and am really looking forward to watching your progress. Cheers!
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Assuming that your local train shop is well-stocked, such shops are often useful sources for tools and materials that can be used in ship modeling.
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