ccoyle
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Welcome aboard!
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Which side you scribe fold lines on definitely makes a difference. Fold lines should be scored on the side from which the fold bends away from; on most parts, this means that scoring will be done on the printed side. -
The kit includes wooden hearts that are attached to wooden posts along the hull side. The posts function as chainplates, the hearts as deadeyes. Other than that the shrouds are pretty much set up in the usual fashion.
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Sea Witch 1846 by Zooker - RESTORATION
ccoyle replied to Zooker's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
I can move this whole thread if you'd like. -
New to ship modelling? But what do you build first?
ccoyle replied to MSW's topic in Wood ship model kits
These are such important words for a beginner to hear! A first model doesn't have to be complex or fancy in order to be both satisfying to build and a good foundation for future projects. Cheers! -
True, I should have mentioned that generic detail sets from other companies are available. I was thinking about kit-specific detail sets when I wrote the post. Good catch!
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Wilhelmshavener is an interesting company. On the one hand, the have a large catalog of models. I haven't built any myself, but I have seen finished ones on various forums, and it's fair to say that WMV kits can be built into good-looking models. But as wefalck pointed out, many of their kits are long in the tooth and date back to well before the advent of widespread CAD usage in the hobby. It is difficult to tell from just looking at their website how old a particular kit is and whether it is hand-drawn or CAD-drafted. WMV also does not sell any aftermarket detail sets for their models, which is likewise an anachronism compared to the current state of the hobby. It's worth noting that the kit is marked as schwierig (difficult), which in card models suggests that the kit has either very small parts, a large number of parts, or possibly both. Building it might prove to be a tough slog if you have no previous card modeling experience.
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I saw a completed version of this kit at a convention. Its size makes for a very striking presentation. I hope you will enjoy your project! Cheers!
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You are making fine progress with a kit that provides some dubious materials. The cannon carriages are definitely an upgrade. Cheers!
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Hello, ClapTrap. Well, the place to start is actually here, but since you've already framed the question, we'll have a go at it. Your ship is what we call a decor model, and you're right -- it only bears the vaguest resemblance to an actual galleon. As a model, it has essentially zero value, but as an heirloom it might at least have some sentimental value. Restoring it would entail removing the excess grime and reattaching the loose masting and rigging. Since the rig doesn't follow any actual practice, the best way to figure out what goes where is to examine the bits that are still attached -- the loose bits were probably attached in much the same way. And since it's not really a model but rather an artistic impression of a galleon, you can't do too much harm to it if you don't get the rigging done exactly the same as when the item was new. If you do, in fact, end up slipping into a new obsession, have a look around the forum at what first-time builders are working on. This is a great and potentially very rewarding hobby if you get off to the right start. Cheers!
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I assume you mean HSV? They are very high-quality models, usually with a lot of small details. However, I don't see Stier in their current catalog. Is this a kit you already have, or are you looking at one for sale somewhere?
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Welcome aboard! A sometimes overlooked aspect of a suitable beginner's kit is the question of whether the subject is something you really like. The process of building a wooden model can often be a little tedious, and being keen on the subject can get you through those trying times.
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It's marked "finished", but I don't know who added that to the title. Only Clare knows the answer for certain.
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The stern castle substructure is now complete. A dry fit to the hull revealed a couple of things: First, don't hang the rudder until after the stern castle is on the hull! Second, it will take some very careful fitting work to get the stern castle to sit properly on the lower hull. But before I do that I need to construct the windlass, and before I do that I have to get hold of some dye for the kit's white cordage.
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Got the trim work on the stern castle done. These are very delicate, and the task went much easier after cutting the longer pieces into smaller parts.
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Pete's models always look immaculate.
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Build Log rules and Perameters.
ccoyle replied to Davy Jones's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
I answered your question in your other posy. Please check it. Thanks! -
kit review Kit Review - HMS ENTERPRIZE (1774) by CAF MODELS
ccoyle replied to kljang's topic in REVIEWS: Model kits
Thanks for the detailed review, Kerry! -
I have seen some very nice 'faux' tiger-stripe maple rifle stocks made by using this technique -- usually for old-style Hawken, Kentuck, or Pennsylvania rifles.
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Great work! What kind of wood did you use for the back? It has lovely figure to it.
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Congratulations on finishing your project!
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I have sent the request to the admins, so if you log in sometime in the near future and can't get in using "Kev in", you'll know why. Cheers!
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Yikes! I hope you're not out your money.
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