ccoyle
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Everything posted by ccoyle
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El Cid, we're aware that we're not the #1 source for info on plastic models, but we do enjoy seeing them built. So I hope Scott will share his build log here in addition to any other sites he chooses.
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Congratulations! As far as the issue with solvents and vapors, I would check with your health care provider. That's definitely something you don't want to gamble on. Regards,
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Plastic model Navy ship enthusiast
ccoyle replied to Blindluck64's topic in New member Introductions
Hi, Brian. I can't answer your question, but I will welcome you to the forum. It's true we don't have as many steel navy enthusiasts as some other sites, but we do have a few, as you can see in the build logs, and we encourage modeling ships of every era and in most any medium. Cheers! -
Chuck, GPM is a Polish publisher and retailer. gpm.pl
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Hi, zreef. I don't know of anyone who has actually attempted this, but in theory it shouldn't be too difficult. What you'll need to do is locate the waterline on your plans and then transfer that line to each of your station bulkheads. That will indicate how much of each bulkhead you will need to remove. Then I expect you'll need some to stabilize the lower structure of your hull formers, and there's several ways you could do that. One would be to use filler blocks in between the bulkheads, sanded down to match the hull curvature. Another would be to fix your hull formers down onto a flat piece of wood, much like plastic waterline models have a flat bottom piece included in the kit. To do this, you would need to remove extra material from the bulkheads equal to the thickness of the hull base plate, as well as sand the base plate to match the hull lines. I hope all that made sense. Perhaps some others will have better ideas. Regards,
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I'm looking for a good headlamp/ magnifier
ccoyle replied to Derek C's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I just bought the Carson Pro Series visor from Amazon. I've only had it a couple of days, so the jury is still out. So far, I can definitely say the optics are much better than on my old, cheap visor. I wasn't too happy that one set of lenses already had a few small scratches straight out of the box; however, they do not seem to affect my viewing. Durability of the lenses over time will be something I'll be watching for. Edit: Mine is the same unit as seen below in Dilbert55's post. -
I once built a 1/400 card model of this ship. It was a poor model, poorly executed, and long since confined to the ash heap of history. I'm sure yours will be much better and look forward to seeing it built.
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- mikasa
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Hey, Techsan (the Texan), you might not be happy with the model, but at least your workmanship is pretty good. I'd say, fix the damage, throw in some stump masts, and call it a hull model and done. Good luck with Connie 2.0!
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I built the 1/700 version back in my teen years. Can't remember who issued it -- probably Tamiya.
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I think that with one model under your belt already that Granado is a reasonable 2nd build. If that's the one that catches your eye, then have a go at it.
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That hull turned out very nice. I hope the pre-cut planks thing catches on beyond Master Korabel.
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Bob, That's been the case for years now. The gentleman who originally maintained the card modeling FAQ passed away, and that site has not been updated since then.
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Well, if you get $30 worth of enjoyment out of working on it, then yes it is worth that much. Be sure to post some pics of your progress!
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Whoa! I didn't realize at first just how large this model is going to be.
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This looks to be a decor piece produced in SE Asia. It bears a very slight resemblance to the Swedish warship Vasa, and when I say 'slight', I mean very, very slight. Understand first that these models are mass produced with little regard to the actual form of the ship being modeled. So, for example, the rigging on the model does not conform to actual practice. A lot of ship modeling references will be of limited use in this instance, since scale modelers are generally trying to imitate actual practice. A more general guide to ship models, such as zu Monfeld's Historic Ship Models, might give you a rough idea on how to fix up the rigging. Cannons and other bits can be purchased from ship modeling supply outfits such as Model Expo or Bluejacket Shipcrafters. As to replacing the carved figures, they are obviously hand-carved, so the only way to replace them with something similar is to carve them yourself, and that's no simple task. Good luck to you!
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Intro to Card Models Pt. IV: Tools & Other Supplies
ccoyle replied to ccoyle's topic in Card and Paper Models
Just remember that any kind of chip board is murder on #11 blades. Another alternative is to laminate regular card sheets together using spray adhesive. A tad less sturdy, but easier on blades and easier to cut. -
Yes, you should have fun with this. I have always described Midwest models as being just about as close to fool-proof as a beginner's kit can be.
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- finished
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I can vouch for the quality of the 1/100 HMCS Agassiz. It builds into a very impressive model, especially for fans of the The Cruel Sea.
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Can't help you on that one. I've only done one full-hull ship (the Modelik 1/100 HMCS Agassiz), and that was ages ago.
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- digital navy
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Etna -- then you are truly off the beaten path! I grew up in Humboldt. Used to do a bit of backpacking and fishing in the Trinity Alps and Marble Mountain Wilderness. (Apologies for hijacking Clare's log!!)
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So pleased to see someone finally attempting this project! Of course, you already have some experience in this medium, so I expect this one will turn out fine. Enjoy!
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Danny, in card model parlance, the 'spikes' are called 'petals'. They are one of the hardest bits to get just right. Nice work!
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