ccoyle

Butapren is mentioned extensively in the literature of Eastern European card models, but I have never been able to learn exactly what it is. The only thing I can gather is that it is not available in the West.

Ooooh - HMS Mercury.

If we're talking strictly about wooden models, then I'd say '10-15 of the "big players'" is a generous overstatement; it's more like a half-dozen. My guess is that is easier for smaller fish to join in these days thanks to the advent of 3-D design software and cheaper laser cutting and CNC milling machinery. And thank goodness for that, too, since it means modelers have more choices now than ever.

By 'tied up' I assume you mean furled? Yes, there are many modelers in this forum, along with examples of their work, who do just that. Browse through the gallery to find some models with furled sails, then find the build logs for those models to see how they did things. Try searching 'furled sails', too - you'll probably get some hits. Good luck!

Great work, Pete! Now you are down to only two projects, I believe?

Gentlemen, I just did some pruning of this topic. This thread was started specifically to discuss projects in the works at Amati. I don't know why Chris hasn't posted in a while, but I'm sure he has his reasons. In the meantime, the thread was drifting off-topic and threatening to become a full-blown topic hijack. Discussions of particular kits already in production should go in the wooden kits forum. Build pics should go in a build log. Chit-chat should go in the Shore Leave forum. Thank you!

Working from memory here, but if I recall correctly, eating the salt dough is a no-no, as the salt content is way too high. Kinda like drinking seawater.

Try sending a PM to MSW member MrBlueJacket (BJ's owner).

Ersatz Play-Doh.

Congrats! Fabulous model and excellent build log, too.

Just be advised - a plank-on-bulkhead (POB) model isn't a walk in the park, either. Each method has its own skill set and learning curve, and there's hardly any way to decide which one you would like better until you've tried both. Don't be overly swayed by modelers who swear by one or the other. Their experiences are not a sure indicator of your future preferences. Before waffling on the POB vs. solid hull question, take a step back and ask yourself, what model(s) really, really appeal to you on a visceral level? Knowing the answer to that question will narrow down the search for you.

What Jan said - they're a small business. Keep trying. You'll get hold of someone eventually.

I moved this to the appropriate forum. You should probably hear from Chuck in the not-to-distant future. Regards,

Aack!! No no no no no! Nooooooooooooo. MSW is aimed at ship modelers of every stripe, and some of us wish a lot more non-wood models would make their home here. (Just messin' with you a little, Slog -- I knew what you meant). @ Old Man: We do have modelers that weather their models, even if many don't. I, for one, don't bother weathering my models because a) I like them the way they are, and 2) good weathering is an acquired skill whose learning curve I'm not interested in tackling. But, honestly, trying to encourage more weathered models by making unsubstantiated statements about "inner circles", embracing "new ideas", and MSW not having room for the "Realistic Builder" strikes me as counter-productive. Want more weathered models prominently featured here? Then post some! Inspire someone! That would, I think, work much better. Cheers!

Excellent news! If you have been wanting to try your hand at our card modeling tutorial, but have been waiting for the subject model, the German torpedo boat V108, to become available again, then you're in luck! Roman Deytna, the owner and designer at Digital Navy, has graciously given us permission to host the V108 files here at MSW. They can be found in the first post of Part V of the tutorial. Thanks, Roman! So, get out your craft knife and cutting mat, print those files, and get crackin' on building your own card creation! And don't forget to start a build log!

I fixed it for you, Keith. Lovely vessel and should be an interesting build to follow. Good luck!

A fabulous model and one lucky customer!

I built the Corel Flying Fish, and in my opinion it is a terrible kit - or at least my particular example of it was. Poorly copied plans, terrible instructions, poor materials, out-of-scale fittings - that kit had it all. If you finished one, then you deserve an ovation. Fortunately there are many far better kits on the market today, so don't let that one experience deter you. If you finish a kit like that, then you definitely have what it takes to press on to the next project. Cheers!

Okay, I know this build isn't completely finished, but can I just say 'congratulations' in advance? I have been super impressed all along by this model. Your skill, the level of detail, and the fidelity to the original are all exceptional. The finished model will be a treasure!

Are you intending for this to be a build log? If so, I would like to move it to the kit build logs section. It will be a treat for our members to see one of these high-end card kits coming together.

Hi, Aur. Unfortunately, Roman still has not updated his website - the link for V108 is still not active. Since the website on the whole, however, is active, we must assume that Roman is still in business. Even though the model is free, it is still his intellectual property, and for me or anyone else to distribute copies of it without the owner's permission would be a copyright infringement. Maybe I'll shoot him an email and ask what his intentions are.

I just read through this entire thread again after seeing that another member was directed here. I feel it is worth pointing out (again) that it is really very hard to make generalizations about the instructions in kits made by various manufacturers (with maybe the exception of the soon-to-be-defunct Midwest Products boat model line). The simple reason is because manufacturers and their kit line-ups both change over time. Take Caldercraft as an illustration of this point. Their first dozen or so kit offerings really had very spartan instructions. It's only their most recent kits that have had detailed instructions. If you were to buy a kit of Caldercraft's Snake, for example, based solely on your positive experience with their instructions in Pickle, you'll be sorely disappointed; Snake is one of the older kits with far less detailed instructions. Same goes for Model Shipways. The instruction manuals in their older kits have a lot of pages, to be sure, but they don't really tell you how to accomplish many of the steps. They'll tell you to 'plank the hull' for example, but won't tell you how to plank the hull. MS instructions assume a certain amount of ability on behalf of the builder. But, again, their newer kits (those designed by Chuck, for example) have much better instructions. Another thing that can make it an absolute booger to make generalizations about this or that kit line is that some manufacturers have, over the years, acquired and sold kit designs that they didn't themselves design in-house. Many times they didn't take the time and expense to update those kits, and that includes the instructions. Many manufacturers are aware that their kits and instructions need updating, but ship model kits aren't a lucrative business, and if they already have a box of, say, 500 less-than-stellar instruction manuals for HMS Lollipop sitting in the warehouse, rest assured they're going to box up and sell those instruction manuals in 500 kits before they pay to have them redesigned and reprinted. It's about economics. If you really want only the best instructions, you can't go too far wrong (here I am making a generalization after I just warned about making generalizations) in taking the advice mentioned earlier in this thread: newer is better, and by 'newer' I mean as in newer kit design. The last few years have seen a real uptick in the quality of instructions being included in kits, especially from MS, Caldercraft, Victory Models, and some of the newer European manufacturers. Cruise the various catalogs and web sites and work from the latest releases backwards - the farther back you go, the more likely you are to get more terse instructions. Kit instructions - it ain't as easy as saying Brand X instructions are better than Brand Y !

Marc, I'm still trying to figure out whatever it is you're doing in your avatar. It looks vaguely repulsive.

Depends entirely on how thick the originals were. If the plans say 3/32, then that is probably the correct scale thickness. Since the kit is also in 3/32" scale, that indicates bulwarks 1 foot thick, which may be about right.on the original.

I have always liked the looks of these boats, and you did a great job on your model. Congrats!