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ccoyle

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Everything posted by ccoyle

  1. And now, many people will realize why Halinski are considered the "gold standard" of card models. Basically, ALL Halinski models have this level of detail and degree of difficulty -- they don't do beginner or intermediate models. I have only completed one Halinski model successfully, and the other got the better of me and ended up being binned. Finishing one is kind of a badge of honor in the card modeling world.
  2. I assume this is the BlueJacket kit? I've always considered that a very fine-looking model.
  3. Ferrocement is actually a fairly common boat building material. I remember as a kid in Northern California (the real Northern California, not the Bay Area wannabe kind 😛) that one of the yards on Humboldt Bay produced ferrocement hulls.
  4. That's very kind of you to take on this project for your brother. You're off to a good start, but I hope you took a couple of things into consideration. First, did you check whether your markers are water-based? I dip in the pond is not good for water-based markers, for obvious reasons. Second, did you give any thought to ballasting? With no ballast, your model will ride too high in the water and be top-heavy. Good luck with the rest of your project!
  5. Hola, Paco. ¡Bienvenido a nuestro grupo! Nos complace que participe con nosotros, pero todas las notificaciones deben hacerse en inglés. Puede usar un servicio de traducción de Internet (que es lo que también debo hacer): produce una representación aceptable y su significado es claro la mayor parte del tiempo. Cheers!
  6. Wow, this is some seriously nice stuff! Far beyond my ability to do justice, but I hope someone on the forum will take you up on your offer and yes, maybe even do a build log.
  7. There's a good chance that the parts you need are off-the-shelf fittings, which you can obtain from a number of U.S. retailers, e.g. BlueJacket or Model Expo.
  8. Wait ... aren't RC yachts a kind of ship model? Welcome to our forum!
  9. Just to be clear, this is not an MSW officially sanctioned selling technique. 😁
  10. I second the consignment option. Let them do the work of finding a buyer for you.
  11. I was also going to suggest paper. It can be moistened for easier forming and then allowed to dry. You can then paint it and coat it with varnish, perhaps a satin or semi-gloss finish to get the rubberized look.
  12. Hello, Trident Model! If you are copying and pasting your English text from a translation service, look for the "copy as plain text" option; that will eliminate the background color.
  13. And you have my respect for that! I only joined FB in order to stay in touch with my adult children, who have since migrated to other social media platforms.
  14. Interesting subject, but there is some confusion on the scale. 1/4" to the foot is actually 1/48th scale. 1/25th scale is closer to 1/2" to the foot (1/24th). Judging from the size of your construction, I'm guessing the latter scale is the correct one.
  15. Great to have you as a sponsor, Chris! It's been fun watching your growth as a designer going all the way back to JoTiKa. More good stuff to come, I'm sure. Hope you start off by selling a bunch of Alert kits!
  16. Not sure why two five-year-old comments are being reposted at this particular point in this build log?
  17. Personally, I think it takes a measure of real skill to build a plastic model and have it be indistinguishable from wood. You did very well!
  18. If your luthier's tools can be broadly used for other small scale wood projects, you might think about scratch building. Have a look through the scratch build logs and galleries to get a feel for some of the beautiful smallcraft models some of our members have either finished or have in progress. The NRG also offers a "Progressive Scratch Building" course, which is a series of three scratch built models beginning with a Bermuda boat, the Corsair, which is a fine looking project. You can find more info here. Cheers!
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