WackoWolf

Today I was able to complete the Bentinck shrouds for the Main mast. I made the shrouds themselves by fully serving a line then serving a loop on one end and a deadeye to the other end. I know on the ship this is not exactly a deadeye, but looks very much like one over a standard block. I have attached some photos of the main with the Bentinck shrouds installed as well as some additional views of the crows feet. I will continue with the fore mast tomorrow, then start working on the upper mast stays and dressing the shrouds.

That;s a picture showing the final result of a zip seizing of 7 turns of the #10 cotton line, after the trimming of the free edge of the rope.
This seizing seems to me a little oversized and the main rope not so centralized to the seizing....
 
Any comments and advices, as always are appreciated mates.
Thanks.

Thanks for the feedback folks; I will email John to see if he can help.
 
In the meantime I have found a couple of potential veneer printing and laser cutting businesses here in Australia which are set up for the artist community, not specifically modellers but they may prove helpful.  I will post the results of my search when I have investigated a little further.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Well I finally finished the model of my sprit rigged skiff Carrianne. I made 4 main sails and two jibs before i got a set of sails I liked.
 
Here's another video of her sailing. I like it because the sound is good.
 
http://tinypic.com/usermedia.php?uo=adkBqYNLltuvP10Ev533aoh4l5k2TGxc#.VF_6kTTF98E
 
 
 

Well after a summer of sailing the real boat I got around to start the finishing of the model. For me the sails are a real problem which gives an appreciation of the art on full size boat sails.  So far I made three main sails and two jibs. The jib shown on the model will be the final one but the present main sail has to go. In the process I learned a few things and for me sewing in a hem to scale is too difficult . So I got the idea why bother to do that.  For the jib  I came up with the idea of outlining the sail in pencil on a suitable piece of material ( in this case the lightest piece of material I could get at Jo Ann fabrics. I dyed it first in coffee ( no cream and sugar ) that took away the all white look. I then stretched the material out on a soft drawing board secured the material with pins again drew in the out line of the sail using a soft pencil. I then took a suitable string close to scale for the sail bolt rope and pinned this to the outline.  Using Elmers and glueing 1 " at a time I cemented the string to the sails outline. I used a needle stuck into in a 1/8" dowel as  an applicator for the glue to the sail attachment. After all this was dry I simply cut the sail material close to the now bolt rope. This for me solves the  fraying problem and the resulting sail looks better than a sewed hem.
 
In the images shown now, the rigging is not belayed or secured so I can take off the main sail and bend on the yet to be made new one. So all lines including the jib look quite slack.
 
In the proposed finished display, the model has little wind and I'm trying make it look like it's all ready for the skipper and crew to board, weigh anchor ( placed in the display up short and off the stb. chock),  back the jib and sail of on the stb tack.
 
I'm hoping the minimal pedestal will give the effect of a boat afloat
 

Anything Byrnes you purchase is a joy. During my last visit to Jim's shop I purchased the Ropewalk and as customary...... Superior. The thickness sander could not be simpler and more elegant in its design. I is designed to work accurately and last for a lifetime. You cannot go wrong with it.
 
Regards
Roman

A small update - I decided to go ahead & build all 14 gun carriages.I didn`t like the generic kit carriages so I built some from scratch.The sides were built up from 1.5mm square strips.I simulated the reinforcements on the tops& fronts with black heavy paper.The pegs in the axles are made from .020 inch wire. The axle brackets were made from the same wire hammered flat & bent to shape.i have decided to use the kit cannon barrels.Each carriage will have 38 pieces when finished.In the last picture the kit carriage is on the left & mine on the right. Although they are a little taller than the kit ones would have been I am fairly happy how they turned out.
 

 

 

 
/Mark

After a solid week of work (and re-work more than a few times), the head is complete. The top rail is not really accurate to the AOTS book, but I was a bit restricted by my boxwood supply, size wise. At any rate, the rest is pretty darn close to the book, and I think a vast improvement over the kit options. It was some seriously fiddly work and although rewarding to get done, I'm glad it is behind me...
 
 
 
 

Hello everyone,
 
Well, I tackled the rudder today.  I made the gudgeons , pintels. rudder and helm.  None of this fine machining we have seen from Remco though.  First of all I don't have any machine tools and secondly, the size is just too small.  
I used small pieces of 1 mm brass tube soldered to a narrow strip of brass sheet for the gudgeons and 1/2 mm brass rod soldered to narrow strips of brass sheet.  I bend the gudgeon strips to fit the sternpost before soldering the small pieces of tube to them, which I didn't do for the pintels.   The fit is not as nice and I'll bend them fist as well in version 2.0.  Remember that this is just the prototype.
 
The helm is removable as is the rudder just like the real thing.  With a coat of paint it should look decent enough for a spare.
Next will be the oars and oar thingies and lifting rings, at least one at the bow. I think we can hook a hook to the rudder gudgeon to help lift the dingy out of it's little house below decks.
 

 

 

 
Cheers,
 
 

Someone here went to the museum in Savannah where the model is displayed, and posted images of it before the MSW crash.  I saved them because of her similarities to Constellation in some respects,  As this most recent case, she's been very influential in my building Constellation.  I think she's 1:24 scale.
 
I found out who built her and tried to find a contact for him a while back - with no luck.  I'd love to talk to him about the ships and research sources because I found he came to the same conclusion on some things, and may have some information I missed, like this recent revelation.
 
I hope to see the model in person someday, and take my own photos of key items of interest to me - Constellation will probably be long complete by the time that happens.

Thanks all.
 
Mark, for delicate enhancing of the joints I use a pencil, but to simulate tarring like the joints on  the rudder I use very thin paper (probably 0.1 mm thick). It comes in different colors but it's not water proof so I use the white one and tint it with a black Sharpy. All joints are lined on one side and after gluing the pieces together I used a plane to shape the rudder and trim the excess paper lining.
 
Meanwhile the metalwork on the rudder is continued, the pintles and spectacle plate are made from separate pieces silver soldered together. Piet, when all metal work is ready I will try to brown them (instead of blackening) 
 
Here they are temporary fitted
 

 

 

 

 

 
I noticed the hole for the tiller sits to close to the top of rudder, In need to make a little fix to lower it
I'm not sure how that happened......
 
Remco
 
 

Echoing earlier comments, I have few regrets in life other than buying cheap tools, and then soon after buying better tools. They make all the difference in the world to your confidence and quality, and I could have saved a lot of money over the years buying once to last a lifetime, rather than thinking I could make do and then replacing....

Shihawk, there are some very thoughtful and wise comments regarding the saw and various other tools so far in this thread about your question, that fact that you asked the question leads me to think that you are not sure yet.
Greg's post outlining the difference between making something by hand or with machine tools, speaks to a few issues;
 
First his choice to reject an item made with hand tools for an item made with machines. His reason he liked the accuracy of the latter better.
 
Second, he cited the difference in time that each item took to make. The hand made item took longer than the machine made item.
 
Third, the difference in the number of tools used to make the item, four machine tools, disc sander, lathe, drill press, table saw. versus one power tool and a hand tool, Dremel, chisel.
 
Now to my point, all tools require a degree of comfort for you to be able to use them to their greatest advantage, this takes time and practice regardless of the tool, power, machine or hand. As you continue to develop your skills (this is a lifetime activity,anyone who disagrees is lying) you will come to a point where you decide how you want to continue working, because each tool has its advantages and disadvantages, and only you can make that choice as to how you want to proceed.
 
A final comment about quality of workmanship, many of the cherished models in the museums were made without electricity, that is the ultimate beauty of a hand tool.
 
Michael

Von_Kossa, Fam, Vivian Galad and Mobbsie all helped greatly with the rigging research.  Thanks to all.  The bottom line is that it is mostly guesswork as very little historical data exists.  Von_Kossa sent a link that he got from the museum in Oslo which showed a sheave at the top of the mast.  Since my new lathe had just arrived I thought it was a great opportunity to practice.
 

 
I got so excited about playing with my new toy that I forgot to take pictures.  I used a dowel that I had laying around to turn a tube and placed it over the top of the mast.  The picture below shows the stub of the tube and the tube itself on the mast.
 

 
The tube and mast was then slotted and I cut a wafer off a different dowel and used it as the wheel.  A piece of black annealed wire was used as the pin.
 

 
I painted the sail using 3M blue masking tape and the Tulip fabric paint mentioned earlier.  I was amazed that the first attempt was a keeper.  The next step was to sew the rope all the way around the sail.  
 

 

 
One of the reasons that I chose the Oseberg is that it has only one sail and minimal rigging.  It is a chore to me.  I tried to get my daughter to sew the rope but her timetable was much longer than I was willing to wait so I had to do it myself.  None the less, all of the rope used is  from Chuck Passaro"s Syren Ship Model Company.  It is beautiful stuff, I have never seen anything like it.  Chuck did a demonstration at the NRG conference to teach us to make our own rope.  It had the opposite effect on me.  I never, ever want to do make rope myself.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Here is the current status.  Rigging is underway.  
 

 

A Little at a time will get you there, but DAM she is big. Keep the updates and pictures coming, and Thank you for sharing with us.

I don't sand the deck beforehand. After fitting a treenail, I use a pair of small cutters that I keep very sharp with a diamond sharpening stone ( so as not to crush the bamboo treenails). I can cut the treenails practically flush to the deck with this cutter. I then sand the deck and treenails with very fine grit sandpaper - try not to over sand as deck planks are often very thin. I have recently bought a proxxon pen sander which I will use to get into tight corners of the deck of my current build - the 'Supply' - when I reach the deck planking/ tree nailing stage of the build.

Hi Toni,
 
Don't take the Planking Expansion in TFFM as gospel, especially around this stage of the external planking. David himself admits that there will be variations, as this Expansion was done using a CAD program. Any slight deviation in measurement over a couple of planks, or more significantly a variation in Fairing the frames WILL result in an error somewhere down the track. I found I was quite a way off the TFFM expansion by now, and had to "Become My Own Shipwright" to get them to fit.
 
From the explanations in your last post it looks like you're on the right track .
 
  Danny

Thanks to everyone for their input regarding the planking below the transom.  Obviously, somewhere along the way, a measurement was off by about 1/8" (6" full size).  I decided to make up for this by making the planking below the transom look like it was designed to have a filler piece and not a correction for an "oopsie".  I am pleased with the look so far.  The same number of planks end on the wing transom as shown in TFFM.  The difference is that there is no need for a slight flare at the end because of the filler piece.  After installing the first row of planking below the "gang of six", I decided to lay out on the hull the rest of the runs of planking.  Tick strips were used at every station to obtain the remaining width.  This was divided by nine (the remaining number of rows) and the width was transferred to the hull with calipers.  After all the station marks were drawn in, the marks were connected in a fair line to show the run of the planking.  I also marked out the butts of the planks.  This makes the rest of the job much easier.  While there was a significant amount of framing visible, I decided to mark their locations on the planking so the lines of treenails would be fair.  At the stern this involved also marking out the fashion pieces and the location of imaginary cant frames going up towards the wing transom. Everything looks a little rough at this stage, having only lightly sanded with 100 grit.
 

 

 

 

Thanks to everyone for the likes, comments and support, it really helps to get over the tough bits.
 
 
 
Now if  it would only look good from this side of the room 
 
Joking, I am moving on with it now or I would never get anything done or finished.
 
Okay major milestone for me.  Deck is finally on.  As usual a few lessons learned for next time. 
 
One thing which stands out is the printed colours are all slightly different across the 3 different parts of the deck.  I can’t do anything about that so moving on without further ado.
 





 
Cheers
Slog

Posted: Mon May 21, 2007
 
May 2007.
 
Once you have fixed the first stealer/drop plank, you need to repeat the same process for every empty area on the hull and, at the end (of the end), this should be the final and desired result.
 
It's very easy, do you agree ?
 
NB: This is not my model but a picture from the magazine, next some very (very) recent photos of mine model.
 

Let me introduce one of the importantest parts so far. This little block is a template for gun ports. I'm using it mounting the spar deck gun ports. Now when there is lower parts in place, just add this block and mount the other parts around it. Very handy.
 

 
Gun port progress.
 

 
Then I made some other additions using paper template.
 


 
Now continuing the spar deck gun ports.
 
Markku

Oak would almost need heat involved to bend it.  Electric plank bender or curling iron.  That stuff is tough.

From a bunch of wooden stirrers I had bought I have made the deckplanking of the lowest deck, and some oak beams (glued 4 of them on each other).  These Beams are the base of the seats (made out of beech). Two small undeep holes plus some oak stain make the dowel-mounting of the seats:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
For the planking a rather strong curving is neccesary. As I have planned to make the hull out of oak I first tried to bend some oak strips 6 x 2 mm over the "wrong" side, but even after two days in water this did not work.
 
After some adjustments on my circular saw I now can make oak strips 3 x 3 mm - will try out the next days if this will work.
 
4 x 4 mm was still a bit to thick.
 

 

You should be very proud. I salute you sir.
 
Mort

Greetings all
Well at last the ship is in it's case. The photos don't do it justice, as I pointed out in the display case log. But the ship does really look impressive. The photos showing the full case are very fuzzy, and we tried everything we could think of to eliminate it. I did notice the fuzzy pictures when I moved into my new shipyard and blame it on the blue walls which I was advised was the best colour to use. The walls in the other yard were magnolia and the photos were much sharper. Anyway you can see the difference with the close up photos. So that's my lot, and now I turn to my next build which is the royal yacht caroline by panart. I did purchase the pegasus after following blue ensigns brilliant build, but the admiral said she wanted me to build a galleon. She said my late fathers last two ships were galleons so she wanted a galleon. She had a look through Cornwall model boats list of ships and between herself and her friend decided the caroline was a nice ship. So I am now beginning the only royal galleon caroline on the site. I would like to thank you one and all for following my build over the last few years, which has been wonderful experience. I am now off to build my Galleon. Here's the last few photos. Keep enjoying your builds....DAVID