russ

Basswood is commonly used in model ship building so I would think if it were in good condition, cut, and allowed to dry properly, it would be of interest to modelers. Russ

I could see using the seizing you show if the ropes were bound side by side, but when the ropes are crossed, it just seems like the vertical throat seizing would be more appropriate. Good luck with your search. Russ

What I read must have been referring to the throat seizing used when rigging shrouds to deadeyes and crossing the shroud lines. There a throat seizing was used. That must have just stuck in mind when crossing lines like that. Russ

I have been silently following this build over time and it is stunning. I do have a question about the seizing on the breeching. I ask only out of curiosity, but was the seizing like that shown in the photograph or seized vertically? I recall somewhere seeing it done vertically, but that may or may not be correct. Russ

Ken: I would think that Hahn's rigging plan would be worth looking at. You can also look at other similar schooners for which plans have been drawn. Sultana's rigging plan might give you some insight for instance. Sir Edward Hawke's basic rigging plan in Search For Speed Under Sail might also be a useful source. These will not answer every question, but they might be used as guidance. Russ

Bob: At 5 feet long overall, I doubt this was a kit, even an old one. While anything is possible, kits are generally not that large. Russ

Nick: Welcome. I agree with everything that has been said here. Everyone here began where you are at some point. Even now, the most talented modelers always learn something new each time they make something. It never stops. I have been scratch building for a little more than 20 years. The tools I use the most are hand tools. Clothes pins for clamping are the easiest to get and will serve many uses. You can buy other clamps as you need them. The number 11 exacto blade with a knife handle will do for a lot of cutting. I recommend wood glue like Titebond for wood to wood joints. Clamp whenever you can as it creates a better joint. super glue (cyanoacrylate or CA) will do for metal to wood joints, although many prefer epoxy. Get a good ruler marked down to 1/32 inch and keep a SHARP pencil for marking. Keep it sharp. Always take care with your tools. Respect their ability to hurt you and you can avoid a nasty cut. I speak from experience. Definitely start a build log. Ask lot's of questions, but ask them beforehand and the answers will be of greater benefit. Above all, have fun. That is what this is all about. Ship modeling is my stress relief. Do not let it create stress. Enjoy it and do not be afraid to walk away for a day or so if you run into a challenge that requires some thought. Go slow, read your instructions and plans, ask questions, measure twice and cut once etc. Russ

Kenneth: The head rails look good. I like the gun port covers as well. Nicely done. Russ

Check out Midwest kits on Ebay. They have several kits listed. These are good starter kits with good plans and decent materials. Many modelers have got their start with a Midwest kit. Russ

Your model is looking quite good so far. Nice work. The garboard plank should not reach too far up the stem. If you do, it will crowd the remaining plank ends. I would keep it low and allow the remaining planks to fill in the space. Russ

For staining, begin with a pre stain conditioner. It is clear, but it will create a surface that will absorb the stain evenly with less blotching. You can then stain immediately after. You might consider a clear stain on top of the conditioner just to bring out the wood grain. It would darken the wood slightly, but without much color change. Russ

The tackle thread is what runs from block to block. That is what would be seized or tied to the loop you mention. Instead of making the loop, just tie the tackle thread onto the strap before the strap is put on the block. Then put the strap on the block so that the tackle thread is on the **** end of the block. This would eliminate the loop but the tackle thread is still secured to the block. Russ

At a very small scale, you can take the tackle thread and tie it to the strap thread before you strap the block. Then wrap the strap around the block with the tackle thread already in place on the **** end of the block. Once you seize the tackle thread, it will be difficult to tell that you did not use the becket (loop) on the end of the block. It will also look less bulky. Russ

Those are the bolt ropes, there to reinforce the edges of the sails. They are a common feature of sails. Russ

An average deck plank length would probably be about 15-20 ft, but you can fudge a bit on either side of that. At your scale, anything from 2.5 inches to 4 inches would be okay. You could even go a little longer and still be within reason. Good luck with your model. Russ

I agree with this technique. You can also use a drill bit just a hair larger than the hole to ream the hole out just a bit. Between that and the stiffened end of the line, it will be much easier to thread the block. Russ

Paul: Your model is looking very good. The rigging is always a challenge given how close everything is and its inherent complexity. You are doing well. Russ

Your deck came out very nicely. The alternating colors in the strips looks good to my eye. Well done. Russ

Your rudder looks pretty good, as does the deck planking. One option for the inner bulwarks could be a dark red color. That is commonly seen on models of this period. Russ

Steve: I would definitely call them and get a replacement. I would not try and correct that myself. I think it would be difficult and certainly not what you were looking for when you bought the kit. You paid your money and you should get what you paid for. It might take a few days to get a replacement piece in the mail, but they will do it. Russ

Your model is coming along well. The stern detail is good. I think the color scheme in the painting is a very good choice. Russ

I forgot to mention that, if you use stain on basswood, use a pre stain conditioner of some sort to make sure you get an even saturation of the stain. Stain on basswood can be very blotchy because one area will soak in while another area will not. However, I have successfully stained basswood using a pre stain conditioner. It works. Apply the conditioner and then stain and it should be fine. This would work for a natural stain or any color of stain. Again, try it on a scrap and see what you think. Russ

When considering color, you might want to do 2-3 mock ups to test a few color combinations. This way you can test things out without harming the model itself. The topsides could be a yellow ochre color with an off white bottom and black wales. However, instead of painting the topsides, consider a natural stain finish there. It will bring out the natural features of the wood and give it an oiled appearance. So long as the area is clear of glue smudges and well sanded, the stain should go on fine. You can then do the black wales and off white bottom. The bottom color probably should not be gleaming white, but just off white. That will give a better scale effect. You can also add a bit of colored trim to the topsides along the line of the railing. Maybe black, Prussian blue, or dark red. You can also paint the after topsides around the quarter deck red or Prussian blue. There are a number of pleasing options and combinations. The colors should not be bright, but a little subdued. Again, it is better for the scale effect. Above all, I strongly suggest a nearly flat finish. At scale, any kind of non flat finish tends make the model look like a toy rather than a scale model. Good luck. Russ

Ron: They look great. Very good work. A little color variation is fine. Call it character and feel good about it. Merry Christmas to you and yours. Russ

John: She is looking really good. It looks like the hull is already fairing up nicely. There should be too much elbow grease needed. Russ