Cathead
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Everything posted by Cathead
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Thanks! Hope you enjoy it, the project was fascinating and fun. You'll probably enjoy the video lecture linked toward the end of this log, too, though it won't apply directly to your Robert E. Lee project as it focuses on the somewhat different Missouri River boats. Best wishes for surgery recovery, I've been there and it's no fun. This project actually wrapped up a couple years ago, though it doesn't seem like it. Since then I've completed a few others, including a Viking longship and several NRG learning projects (see links in my signature) but I haven't taken on anything in a while due to a complicated situation including wrist injury/surgery, extensive other commitments in my non-modeling life, and the temporary loss of my workshop to (currently delayed) remodeling projects. If/when I get back to building, I'm considering scratchbuilding the JR Wells, a neat little steamboat that operated on Missouri's Osage River; some photos and info are available here.- 599 replies
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She's coming together nicely.
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If you're looking for something accessible that will give you a decent overview of the evolution of wooden ship design over time, I strongly recommend "The Evolution of the Wooden Ship" by Basil Greenhill. It's a simply and clearly written work heavily illustrated with really nice drawings, that reads more like a narrative than a reference work. I think it'd be particularly well-suited for beginners. Many of the reference works out there that experienced modelers use can be pretty difficult for those newer to the subject. I think it helped me more than anything else I've read to really understand the geometry and evolution of ship design. It mostly focuses on hulls, less so on rigging, so you'll have to look elsewhere for that. Also, in terms of books on modeling, I'd be cautious about using older books. There are many old staples that are good in their way, but are also pretty out of date with respect to modern materials, methods, and kit design. Honestly I think there's better and more accessible information online than in most books, and I say that despite being the son of a librarian and a confirmed book lover.
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You've done a great job and should be proud to display her. The stand matches the vessel nicely. I hope you enjoy your next build as much! Let us know here when you start it.
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Hey Brad, great to see you're giving this model a shot. If you're interested in continuing to share photos and lessons as you go, might you consider starting a separate build log for the model to document your work?
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Nice start!
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There hasn't been much advice needed so far. You're clearly done your basic steamboat research (more than many builders). As for the painting question, overall white was the standard color on these vessels but you're certainly right that some of those photos imply that raw/varnished wood would be acceptable for certain interior details. There was a lot of variation between individual boats. I was also intrigued by that staircase photo from the JM White, where it appears the camber of the deck is curving down and away from the bottom of the flat staircase in both directions. This amused me because (a) it would've been pretty easy to fill those gaps one way or another for a better appearance on such a grand vessel, and (b) it looks like some simple beginner's modeler mistake, leaving gaps like that. There's a prototype for everything!
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Burn marks sound like the tool was pushed too hard/fast on hard wood, and/or isn't sharp enough. I wouldn't think thread would be a budget-buster!
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Those look quite nice!
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I saw your comment in John Ruy's log and decided to check out your log. Looks like an interesting project and you've got a good grounding in steamboat basics. I'll happily follow along and see what you can do with this. Best wishes for continued recovery from your surgery.
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Welcome! Both my parents grew up in the Philippines, one in Manila and one down in Mindanao and Cebu. I think you've made a very smart choice in starting with a series of smaller models that will help you build skills. Many of the tips given to new builders attempt to nudge them away from getting in over their heads, buying too many tools or too-fancy models. I love the idea of using recycled materials and the path you've chosen will help get you there. Please share your journey with us!
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Thanks, I see it now, and can recognize it in your previous photo. Very interesting. Is it possible it's anchored to a structural post and descends down to the keel (I could convince myself those angle inward, though that could be perspective), acting to help support the bow? Honestly not sure why that would be needed, larger boats than this didn't do that, but it's a thought.
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Can you clarify which hog chains you're referring to? I'm having a hard time seeing what you mean in the photo above. The drawings certainly show a normal-looking set of longitudinal hog chains and you appear to have the braces for these properly set up, but these seem to end within the main deck superstructure so I don't know which boiler room doors you mean. Maybe a drawing or an annotated photo?
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Personally I've found that acrylic paints slowly dry out over time, even in a tight bottle, but that they can be rejuvenated with a bit of water. It's best to do this when they've just gotten a bit thicker, as opposed to when they're really set and dried. But different brands probably work different ways. Like many things, best to check on them now and then rather than forgetting about them for years until you need them! Congratulations on finishing the hull, it's very attractive.
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I'll follow over from your other build, have fun with this one! Definitely fewer railings...
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Just stumbled across this, happy to follow along. Great job on those anchors, bodes well for future upgrades and your expressed interest in doing more scratch-building.
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Cool prototype, hope you can keep the log up! It'll be fun to follow.
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Keep the faith! The marathon does end someday. Quick note, as those meant to be fire barrels and buckets in white? If so, to the best of my knowledge these were always painted red.
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I've scratch built a few (see signature links), nothing museum quality but nothing to scoff at either, using virtually all simple hand tools. All my work is done on a 2'x3' table with occasional forays outdoors for some of the dustier work. I cheated and used a band saw and a dremel a few times, but that's it, and I could have done it without those, it just would have been slower and more obnoxious. Oh, and I've milled some of my own wood using a Byrnes table saw, but if you buy wood that's not necessary. So I certainly don't think you need anything more than you say you have, especially if you have patience. I've no doubt that more toys tools make many things easier, but you asked about need, not want!
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My thoughts exactly. Looking for a unicorn buyer. It's possible a modeling club could be interested, as a way to maintain a lending library, but it'd have to be a pretty substantial club.
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Given that lots of riverboat pilots were from divided border states like Missouri and Kentucky, along with the southern-most tier of Union states like Ohio and Indiana, it wouldn't surprise me if there was a fair amount of diversity in where their support went. Weren't a lot of, say, die-hard Mainer Unionists with decades of experience on the lower Mississippi. On the pay front, commercial steamboat traffic crashed during much of the war, so pilots may have been employable at more affordable rates than usual since there wasn't as much normal work. Plus, the Federal government had money to throw around, so may even have paid them pretty well. I'm reading a new book on the 1865 Sultana disaster right now, and it documents quite a lot of graft in the way contracts were used and abused for the shipping of freed Union POWS upriver. The Feds were paying good money for shipping services at a time when river traffic was low, and everyone wanted a piece of the action. Pilots could have been the same. Definitely a good question on the chain of command, wish I knew. It certainly had to be more structured than in civilian life, no way a pilot could refuse military orders the way they could a regular captain. Honestly, the same question goes for pilots on the various regular steamers used in government service as transports. So much to know!
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Brian, yes, pilots and captains were totally different. River pilots were licensed independently (they, along with the chief engineer, were the only crewmembers required by law to have any training or licensure) and had to complete rigorous apprenticeships to ensure they knew the rivers they would be piloting on. They were roughly equivalent to harbor pilots, but much more powerful since they controlled the entire voyage, not just entry to/from a harbor. Most boats carried two pilots so there could always be one on duty. Captains did not have the authority to overrrule pilots in any matter of navigation or operational matters. Captains essentially oversaw the business management of the boat and would naturally set the intended schedule/destinations, but the actual act of getting there was out of their hands. Pilots also operated independently and were not tied to a specific boat in any way (unless they signed a contract). They took jobs as they saw fit. Because of this, competent pilots were a prized commodity and could often extract exorbitant fees from captains (boats could not legally or practically operate without pilots). There are lots of stories of pilots playing desperate captains off one another for higher trip rates or other concessions.
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Brian, my apologies, I completely and shamefully misinterpreted and misused terminology. Never mind. The way you describe it, though, the use of pilots on these naval vessels sounds exactly the same as normal river practice, where the pilot was the de facto captain of the vessel, while the "real" captain was more of a business manager and had no say or authority over navigation.
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Awesome! Also, I love snakes, and would happily have hand-caught and carried that fellow out for you. One thought on the bell location in front of vs. atop the wheel house: in most regular steamboats I've seen, the bell was located in front of the wheelhouse on the hurricane deck. I assume this is not only because, as you said, the wheelhouse would have been too flimsy, but also because it makes running a pull rope from the wheelhouse out to the bell easy: it goes out the front, not up through the roof. This detail can be seen on many historic photos. Finally, and this thought just occurred to me, having a large bell tolling right over the pilot's head might have deafened him; better to have it out further in front?
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