Cathead

That's got to hurt, I'm sorry! I've been there. But since your goal is to learn, I think you'll be happy in the long run. But I do feel a little bad! Keep going, you'll be thrilled when it comes together.

Thanks, Brian, I see it clearly now. Certainly access to the video helps.

I have no educated opinion, but I certainly see your point that the thing dangling from that rudder looks like stiff wire cable rather than dangling rope or chain. Is it possible that, instead of connecting to the rest of the control system, it's a short length of wire that connects the two tillers internally (since you imply that something did so, and this would have to be strong)? Also, in that photo, it looks to me like there's a semi-circular feature connected to the upper-left part of what you've marked as the tiller. This would appear to correlate to the semi-circular part of the tiller opposite the rudder (at the internal end of the tiller), as shown in your first drawing. If so, that wire/cable is coming off the opposite end of the tiller and thus wouldn't be anything from the control system since that also attached to the inner end of the tiller. I can't tell from the photo whether the tiller is at all attached to the rudder or is just dangling loose. For my theory here to be true, it has to be dangling loose and rotated nearly 180º. But if it's still attached, what's that semi-circle doing at the rudder end of the tiller?

Great job! Such fun to follow along, thanks for taking the time to share it all with us.

Don't feel bad, you're doing fine and as you noted, the whole purpose here is to learn and practice. Mine had all sorts of issues that I would (hopefully) do better next time!

So here's what my framing looked like pre- and post-fairing (you can also see how uneven the original frames were in my kit). I basically just kept removing material, checking with thin battens, until I got a run that was smooth. I didn't write anything about this part of the stern in my log, unfortunately, and my memory isn't clear. I rechecked @tlevine's instructions, and it seems like my fairing was pretty similar (see, for example, her photo 97 and mine here) but it's so hard to interpret this stuff from flat photos. In my opinion, more important than trying to emulate any exact shape is to make sure the shape you end up with has a smooth run with no knuckles or awkward angles. Use thin battens obsessively until you're sure every plank will flow across that space and end where you want it, including the butt ends. It can even help to use several side-by-side to help see places where sudden changes occur along a frame (one can lay flat and the next start to knuckle).

Google "knitted military tank" and you'll find quite a few creative results, like this: Very cool model so far. I haven't really dabbled in the non-ship parts of MSW before but this is too interesting to let go.

That run of planking looks so much better! Well done. Here's how it looked on mine prior to planking: During planking: And after: Hope that's helpful in visualizing one way (not necessarily the only/right way) to do it.

I answered this in your original thread, but I'll repeat here. AL, like many manufacturers, provides digital version of instructions on their website. I found it through an easy Google search: https://artesanialatina.net/en/ships-advanced/459-tuna-fishing-boat-marina-ii-wooden-model-kit-8421426205060.html

The AL site, like those of many manufacturers these days, has all the instructions provided digitally on their website's listing for the kit. Look for the tab "Instructions and downloadable contents". I found it in a few seconds of Googling: https://artesanialatina.net/en/ships-advanced/459-tuna-fishing-boat-marina-ii-wooden-model-kit-8421426205060.html

I remember seeing a finished version of this on display at BlueJacket when I visited in 2016. It caught my eye as a really attractive vessel and model. Great to see a build log of it here, BlueJacket often seems under-represented on MSW for the quality of their kits.

Nice job so far, and great work learning from mistakes and keeping a good attitude toward it all!

A few years ago I wrote up my method for making paper sails using bond paper and pastels. I think it works quite nicely and the thread generated some useful discussion of different techniques. See here: Here's what these sails look like the way I made them: Hope this helps!

I had a lot of problems with the provided frames not being right and needing to be reduced or built up. That in itself is a useful learning process, though, as it'll happen in almost any kit! There's definitely an awkward knuckle in those lower planking runs. I also recall the intended counter method being very difficult to understand.

My goodness, that's a problem. While I know nothing about Norwegian model sources, I suggest using the MSW community map to locate members in Norway and contact them. A quick look showed 46 members listed there, so if you send enough PMs, presumably someone will respond! You can also look at their profiles to see how active they are and choose contacts accordingly.

Congratulations! She came out nicely. Thanks for sharing your work. Did you have the case custom-made, or do it yourself? Best wishes for continued recovery.

Essentially, yes, because almost every other decision you make and skill set you develop will relate to what you choose to build. But in terms of research, for example, the Wood Ship Model Kits section has three threads pinned right at the top about how to choose a good kit for a beginner: These have a lot of good discussion that will give you context. If you still have a specific question, that's a good time to post a new topic (or a new question in one of those threads). Also, in addition to @allanyed's suggestion, consider starting with the NRG's half-hull planking tutorial model. Hull shaping and planking is probably the hardest thing to master for modelers new to wooden ship building, as it's the most different from anything you've experienced in the plastic modeling world, and you might well benefit from trying this simple and inexpensive learning kit before diving into a full (and more expensive) model. It looks cool when finished and doesn't take up much space. There is a full tutorial build log on MSW as well as multiple people's personal logs (including mine) that you can consult for diversity.

Most of your questions are subsets of the main one, "which model to choose". For that, it'd help to know which kind of kit you're interested in (wood, plastic, card, etc.) and which kind of vessel (open boat, ancient sailing vessel, modern warship, etc.) because the methods can be quite different. For example, fabricating parts for a wood Viking longship may be quite different than for a plastic aircraft carrier. You can find relevant discussions of different kit types: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/58-general-ship-model-kit-discussions-not-build-logs/ MSW has specific forums for most aspects of model-building (such as painting) listed here: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/12-shop-notes-ship-modeling-tips-techniques-and-research I'd start with the kit discussion/decision, which can also be informed by looking for build logs for kits you're considering, reading them to get an idea of the kit's nature and upgrade potential, then contacting those builders for their ideas. If you can't find a log for a kit of interest, look for logs for similar kits from the same manufacturer to get a sense of their quality and difficulty. Overall, I'd start by doing research before asking questions. Look for and read as much relevant material on MSW as you can find, before adding new questions to the mix. Use the Search box and its customization features. For example, you'll find that many people before you have posted questions about how to choose a kit, and reading those discussions may answer many of your questions. And reading through existing build logs will help you learn what's involved in kit construction, part fabrication, and so on. Once you've given yourself a grounding in existing material, you'll have a better idea of what questions you still need to ask.

I'm not sure where John got his, but Micromark (an excellent model-tool supplier) sells a similar-looking set: https://www.micromark.com/Micro-Mark-10-piece-Planking-Clamp-Set

Never seen pigs leave a deck that clean! Seriously, lovely model, that'll look great on display. Neat to see the extra attention you paid to learning about the backstory and getting more details right.

I totally agree, that's why I mentioned above that one factor in kit selection is companies that make popular prototypes. And upgrading kits can be quite a rewarding experience, check out my Viking longship and US revenue cutter, both of which started with frustrating kits and (I think) came out quite nicely with some serious research and upgrades. But it's still worth knowing what you're getting into ahead of time, which is where pre-researching kit companies is worthwhile. Open eyes compensate for many problems. I went into my Corel revenue cutter eyes closed and much of the frustration was the sense of betrayal at how bad the kit was.

That's a cool idea.

Calm and patience is definitely the right strategy!

Very cool, thanks for taking the time to share the build!

Not to derail this thread for too long, but I'm not sure that MSW build log count is a good metric. For example, BlueJacket is a good company but there aren't many logs for their kits, which has always surprised me. Whereas lots of people keep buying trash from Corel, AL, etc. because they're cheap, often on sale, and widely available through resellers; whereas people get sticker shock from good companies like Vanguard, Syren, etc. Or the trash companies are the only ones making popular prototypes like Beagle, whereas better companies like Vanguard or Syren seem to focus on relatively obscure prototypes. Within my own little riverboat world, for every (good) Model Shipways Chaperon, there are probably 10 (trash) AL King of the Mississippis (referring to kit quality/accuracy, not the builders). But that also fits the pattern, everyone's heard of a Mississippi riverboat but an Ohio River boat is a much more obscure vessel. I do agree that reading build logs is a great way to assess quality; even if you can't find one for the kit you want to build, read logs for other comparable kits from that company to get a sense of their style.