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amateur

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  1. amateur
    Hi Chris, doing the guns of my De Ruyter, I actually deviated from the rule you gave: the paint had a very high tendency to break at the scoring. Someone suggested to di the scoring on the other side. It made a difference wrt the cracking (although: small). The quality of the print is the weak point of JSC: not completely waterproof, and rather easily cracking at bends.... (based on two models: axeldijk and De Ruyter) Jan
  2. amateur
    Question: are you scribing the folding lines with a blunt needle or something? Doing that helps getting a crisp fold, and at the place you want it to be. the real pro's are even fussing about on which side you need to do your scribing, but actually, I never see the difference in my results. (perhaps my fault, or eyesight) Jan
  3. amateur
    Hallo Tom, welkom bij MSW. the victory kit by Amati will be great, (and very large ). will give you some frustrations (all builds do), and lots of fun (most build do ) compared to your other builds, the building time will be slightly longer Jan
  4. amateur
    And if the tail does not belong to the pixie holding the crown, what is the use of the tail (or: were is the head that goes with it?.) Jan
  5. amateur
    Yes, I know that that is what you were thinking of. Therefore I mentioned the generic sets made by hmv and draf (There are also firms doing PE-style metal detail sets) Jan
  6. amateur
    But hmv (and some other companies) sell aftermarketparts (such as railings, ladders, handwheels and anchorchains) fentens, drafmodel are two companies worth checking. Card modelling is serious business in countries east of here. Jan
  7. amateur
    Oops..... can you salvage it, or do you need to do a total repaint? Jan
  8. amateur
    I never saw a clue-line on the front of the sail.: they run from the yard to the clue block, back to the block at the yard. Jan
  9. amateur
    question just for reference: is it a inch-grid onyour cuttin gmat, or a centimeter-grid? (or the same question stated differently: how long is the model?) Jan
  10. amateur
    There is also a book (in Dutch, by Herman Ketting) giving quite a number of helpfull illustrations. He also gives drawings of the model, but the as Corel took some liberties, the drawings of the original model do not match the Corel drawings 100% The mdoel can be found here: https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/collection/NG-NM-11911 And some detail pics of the model (it was in depot when the pics were taken, hence the somewhat dusty appearance....). I was workin gon the rigging when I visited the model, so the pics mainly show riggin gdetails, and not hull details. But perhaps you can use them anyway for inspiration. ON the pics you will see one of the main differences between the original model, and the Corel version: it's the fore-deck: Corel put one in (following a suggestion of Ketting), but the model has none, and presumably, the original did not have one: quite a number of this size of Dutch ships did not have the fore-deck (although the outside apearance is that the have one). And in case you wonder why my avatar is the Prins Willem, and I have this many pics. Somewere in 2000 my wife gave me the Corel-kit as a birthday present, and I'm still not finised (not very hard at work either ) Jan
  11. amateur
    Thanks for correcting me. Yes, I mean those blue thingies with the black mast in between. Jan
  12. amateur
    OK. In that case there is no need to tell you the errors in the kit :). Wish you with your build. Guess you know that this drawing is based on a model that is in the amsterdam Rijksmuseum? Jan
  13. amateur
    Do you work from drawing, or from the Corelkit? PW makes a nice model. Jan
  14. amateur
    Coming along nicely. hope you stacks are not fitted permanently, you put them back-to-front.... I found getting the right colours a bit problematic (as did the paint shop who helped me ....) I noticed that you painted the upper decks blue. Never realized that they were not always green. (I did them green, as per the billings instructions) Jan
  15. amateur
    Thanks for the illustration! Jan
  16. amateur
    How come that the ship is rusty but the two aft gun towers looks as if they were in the factory yesterday....? And now a serious question: what was the function of thise heavy chains rigged at the bow? Jan
  17. amateur
    I guess I gave this link before. It is one of the models Mamoli based their kit on. https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/nl/collectie/NG-MC-673 It is a contemporaneous model, with original rigging done by the builders of the 1:1 ship. Notice the heavy main stay. Almost as thick as the yards of the square sail, and as thick as the gaff of the top gaf sail. Jan
  18. amateur
    Hi Sandor, Is it the rope that is too thick, or is it your expectations that did expect something small? Bear in mind that the old-fashioned hemp-ropes needed to be way thicker than the modern materials to have the same strength. On my Prins Willem (scale somewhere around 1:80-1:100), the mast is 11 mm in diameter, the main stay around 1.8. It looked a bit heavy at first, but now the whole rigging is done, and all is more or less in proper thickness, the total picture looks right to me. The only thing: The first version of the 2 mm-rope was too coarse: you could see the strands from 'quite a distance'. The rope should be proper laid, otherwise out looks out of scale. [edit]. My post crossed with the previous. One additional remark: the Dutch contemporaneous models tend to be 'oversized' when it comes to rope-thickness: from that point of viewchoose 5% oversize, and not 16% undersized thickness. The other reason to choose the oversized stay: all ropes have a more or less fixed ratio to the stay. Choosing undersized stay, will make using the proper ratios fro the remainder of the rigging more difficult (less sizes available between .1 and 1,5 mm than between .1 and 2.0 mm.) In the end the variation in thickness of the ropes used is what counts for the overall impression. Jan
  19. amateur
    JSC has multiple ways of building the hull. This one I didn't know. Warning: tolerances are quite low, especially when starting the hull. Make sure you work as precise as possible. Question: do you have a scanner/printer? If so, it may be worthwhile to scan the kit, and use the scan to provide spare parts, or test-parts for the difficult parts. Jan
  20. amateur
    Hallo Matthias, Welcome at MSW! and for all interested in the buildlog of this noce model: it is here (in German) https://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t2889f685-Zeesboot-um-ca-Massstab.html Jan
  21. amateur
    I like them as they are now: put aside, but not too neatly. Jan
  22. amateur
    Quite off-topic: what do you use for background in your last pics? Jan
  23. amateur
    Hi Maury, did you hit the “ignore”-button on your own log? Your last post dates from thursday, and was right on top of the list. (at least, when I looked at it) [edit] just checked. You can’t ignore your own topics. you can change the sorting of the list of postings. Perhaps you changed to something else than ‘recent first’ Jan
  24. amateur
    Can't see it based on the pics, but it could also be a brass signal gun. And it looks as if the carriage was brown from its beginning. Jan
  25. amateur
    I see, I already thought so: hz sounds like huizen, but it is a non-existent code. For all non-dutch: Dutch law presribed an indication on the mainsail which made the ship reconizable: the lettering refers to the home-port, the number is just a count: the order of registration. First ship registerd got a 1, second 2 etc. Jan

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