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amateur

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  1. amateur
    But Icouldn't resist.... So, here ist the redo (better now ) and one of the guns. Five parts (one of them being .5 mm styrene rod). and a front view, not quite symmetrical, but almost The starboard canvas railing cover turned out better tham the left side. Some sources show the railing on the topdeck with canvas, but the light does not stand high enough to get above the railing, so, no canvas there Jan
  2. amateur
    Missing in the tutorial Chris made, are the screws. I now understand why These eleven parts make up the screw and the shaft. (To be made of wire/styrene rod). It is not difficult, but the parts are tiny (nad my fingers are not). Took me the better part of the afternoon. For those who are going to do the hull, beware: in the aft frames is a hole for the shaft and a lighter red indication on the hull. Both should be opened to insert the shaft. As my skin tended to kink in that popstion, I did not open the skin. The result being that I had to cut the round red tube to a reasonable fit on the hull. Let's say that the largest problem is not visible when the model is placed upright And this is the screw (my cellphone absolutely redused to focus on this part, the styrene rod is .8 mm diameter. So it is tiny. Diameter of the screw is around 8 millimeter. And all mounted. (My watercolours won't do the styrene. Need another walk to the shop for a acryllic red paint) I'm not going to do the second one today (btw yesterdays railing will need a redo) Jan
  3. amateur
    Everytime I see pics of my own models in macrosetting, I realize how perfect your building is: No sloppy cutting, no glue on the wrong side of the card, no nothing..... Absolutely stunning. Jan
  4. amateur
    Hi Piet, good to see you! this paper model is at a larger scale than your java, so it isn't that small I like paper: rather easy, and cheap. Especially the downloadmodels have a large advantage: when you screw up, the solution is in your printer. Just another copy, and retry. (Unless you're too lazy to get up and walkto your printer). Jan
  5. amateur
    Hi Doris, Why do you build theguns with a flat end? Is that because the aft end isinvisible, or are you adding them later on? Jan
  6. amateur
    I tried another part of railing. I'll check tomorrow atviewing distance, but chances are that this will become a redo btw: in broad daylight the paper railings arenot so far off in colour. As they are paper ones, and prone to splittibg, I don't want to fuss to much around with them, so: no painting before placing them, and probably also not afterwards. They can be curved rather "easily", as long as put over a round object. Bending between fingers will lead to nothing. Jan
  7. amateur
    Todays work. Some railing on the bridge (more to come ) the anchor handling crane. Awfull little thingy. Chris suggested making an opening for the pulley. I cheated, and halved the pulley, and glued from two sides. and I mounted the boat (before that, I gave the boat a good clean-up, as I made it long ago It feels as if almost done, but those little parts take a lot of time (and redo's: gone is really, really gone. No way of finding back pieces of a square millimeter) Jan
  8. amateur
    Birds, however..... I did a second wren today. Didn't like the colours of the first one. Today's work on the left side. Jan
  9. amateur
    Finally, after some birds and loco's I took V108 out of the dust. Took some time, and still, the macro's show that I should have done a better job.... The aft platform got its railing and canvas. I used tissuepaper for canvas, but it didn't like the painting......Looks Ok from a distance, but doesn't pass the macro-test. Then I did the canvas on the bridge-deck. Even worse (a well, the viewer should step back ) you may notice that I also did some steps on the bridge, and on the aft funnel. The front one still has to be doen, but those ten little pieces took over an hour ...(and some not-so-nice words ) the steps are cut from a paper laser-cut ladder (drafmodels poland, nice stuff and not expensive. Not water-resistant ) And I made a start with the screws. I need a stronger optivisor and smaller fingers Tomorrow I have other business to do, perhaps on sunday some progress... Jan
  10. amateur
    If they weren't so awfully spaceconsuming, I would go for the architectural models. Castles and cathedrals. Won't fit in the available space, though.... Jan
  11. amateur
    You're a brave man! Jan
  12. amateur
    Hi Ab, In a sense, yes: the possibility to do it at the table in the living, without making a lot of dust, makes it a nice wayof modelling. For the moment, I stick to the 'not-so-elaborate' kits. Not too much stress, no need to work years on the same subject. The advantage of downloadable kits is that when you do it wrong, you just go to your printer and print a replacement-part. I like it. (although the very difficult models of e.g. HMV have some attraction ) Jan
  13. amateur
  14. amateur
    And it flies. Definitely the most difficult one so far.... Especially the steel thread on wich it is mounted proved a problem: I used slow setting two-component epoxy. Not a good idea: the stuff hardens way too slow (I even think I got the mixture of the two components not correct: the stuff remains elastic, and therefore, it was difficult to fix the thread to the internal stucture. I hope it holds.... But so far: the second wing and the head mounted, it is a 'realflying bird' in my cupboard. I like this one, as we have those finches flying around in our garden in autumn. That made two steamloco's and a bird. Now back to ships, I guess. Jan
  15. amateur
    Sorry, that I didn't make my remark far earlier, I suspected it before, but I thought that it was the pic....:( When you are goung to rip the planking off between frames 5-10, is there any way to ensure that although offf-center, the stern will be vertical? In the last pics it looks as if the last two frames are tilted to the left, resulting in an asymmetry, but also a 'non vertical' stern. An off-center stern is a pity, but from a distance not very visible, a non-vertical stern does attract attention (in a non-wanted way). Jan
  16. amateur
    I'm afraid there is a symmetry problem: I went trough all the pics, and the right side is consistently closer to the heartline than the left side, irrespective of camera-viewpoint.... I cant make out whether it is just the top of the aft frame out of line, a drawing error in the aft frame or something else. Jan
  17. amateur
    Was she painted an evenly blue, or did she had some camouflage patten on top of that blue coat? [edit: forget my question: the answer is in your first post ] On my screen the blue really pops out: is that because of a badly calibrated screen, or was this navy blue that kind of bright blue? Jan
  18. amateur
    That is because they are very well thought midels. Difficult to get it wrong. You need a printer, and firm, but not too thick paper. The birds are fun to do: and 1:1 scale is also fun: it doesnt look like a model, it looks real Jan
  19. amateur
    google for Johan Scherft. He does quite a lot of paper-birds. There may be something to catch for you Jan
  20. amateur
    It has been a while that I posted ship-related stuff here, but I have been busy all along. I did two very nice (and also very easy german locomotives), and I started a bird. This time a lifesize flying one: a goldfinch. No buildlog, butjust a couple of pics to show progress. Pretty well self-explaining. These birds by Johan Scherft are easy to build, and their appearance is quite lifelike. This one is a bit more work than the others I did so far, as it has spreaded wings (with a coupe of individual feathers per wing). I had some trouble to get the body nicely closed, so I hope the head will fit. If not, the whole things flies into the dustbin, I will make a new print and start from square one Jan
  21. amateur
    Nice model! btw: in the catalogue there is a drawing of another brig of the same periode: HMS Zephyr ( https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/84478.html ) The stem-configuration and the companionway do fit the model. Jan
  22. amateur
    Camouflage painted tri-plane, or another 'von Richthofen-red' one? jan
  23. amateur
    Out of three, my favorite is the grey one. It doesn't shout out, like the black one, and there is a nice balance in the upper and lower part of the galleries. But pics can be misleading, the real thing in broad daylight should be what counts the top painted is definitely better tham unpainted. Jan
  24. amateur
    Actually, you could argue that the dark version is too dark, and the unpainted too light. in both contemporeneous models, there is almost no contrast between the painted friese and the shingled roof: there is a colour difference,but not too much difference in heaviness of the colour. You could try a colour that matches the original model slightly more: a bluish grey slate, in stead of the rather stark black. And, although I will never try a modl like this myself, it is a joy to see how it should be done. I'm a daily visiting, non-posting admirer Jan
  25. amateur
    Thanks for the explanation! Jan

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