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amateur

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Everything posted by amateur

  1. It also depends on the scale: what os acceptable ar 1:100 might be rather unsightly at 1:24 scale. at large scales you will need to strop the block, and splice the rope into the strop. at 1:100 you can gake a lot of things, without creating visual problems (unless you are a purist,than you have to strop at 1:100) After much trial an error I landed at : rope around block, half hitch under the blick to secure the block in place, and a seizing to fix the running end. Fix with diluted white glue (which makes sure it holds, but can bevremoved when really necessary) Works easy, quick, and the result looks fine to me Jan
  2. No, the fun starts when/where he is doing something wrong He will do more research, rips down his wrongs, and start all-over. Jan
  3. Although I like your little parts, I start wondering: when (if ever) will work on the 'main model' continue?? Jan
  4. The carpetmonster took one more than he was allowed to. one portlid to go on this side. The others are done. I'm pleased with the looks of it. not the best of pics (iphone with flash on short distance in an otherwise dark room), but you get the general idea. I wonder how long it will take for the portlids to blend in with the planking of the hull. This wallnut is changing colour as a result of daylight-exposure. But as I like the lighter version better than the original darker one, I don't complain. Jan
  5. What is nowcalled fiddle, is called 'long tackle' in steel. interesting: fiddle in dutch translates as viool. (Which sounds more or less like viol). Sounds alike, but different blocks. Jan
  6. So am I. There is a build-log on a German forum for some years (so: not going in a Danny speed). And that guy claims there are some issues with the laser0cut parts for the frame. He decided not to use them, but use the laminated parts in stead. For all of you that can take some german : http://www.die-kartonmodellbauer.de/index.php?thread/1470-hcp-1-6-2-bulgar-1-25-modelik/&pageNo=1 btw: how many parts are there in the kit? (quite a few, I guess) Jan
  7. I don't know how it was/is done in eastern parts of europe, but here it is not both buffers convex on one side, and both concave on the other side: it is a left/right business: the left one (when standing in front of the wagon) being the mushroom-one, the right one flat. So, there never is any problem when turning around, or sorting. Good to hear your loco finally made it to australia ! Jan
  8. I can't think anything else than Jud having removed his post.... (btw: also hitting the like-button results in a notification that someone reacted to a post) Jan
  9. Look at the Dutch Sterns: they all have some kind of curved bar on top, with two small lions resting on top of it, and some kind of curtains around the central piece (some cow in your case). Jan
  10. I was surprised buy the fact that you have the styrene visible from the side. It does not quite match the quality of the hull and your fantastic paintwork. What will your final display look like? Jan
  11. Hi Ken, thanks for the extensive answer and the pics. I checked: the pics in the naval archive are all taken in Europe, shortly before the war. So that matches your suspicion that the shields were put on very shortly before the action in the Java sea. btw: the same applies to the colourscheme of both ships. Virtually all pics show them basic grey, just as build. Almost no camouflage pics of these ships. Jan
  12. Just a question: the bofors on The Ruyter had no shields.... why did they fit they on Java, but not on the (newer) guns of De Ruyter...? (And: the pics I can find show all WwII dutch bofors without shields. Or are we talking different shields?.) Pic from tha navy-archive (nimh) of one of the Java-bofors Jan
  13. Yep, there is: the so-called standing rigging (the non-moving parts like stays and shrouds) used to be more heavily tarred, so are darker than the running rigging (anything that is used to handle sails and spars), which was not so heavily tarred, to keep the lines plyable. Jan
  14. No, thereisnopreview, but onthe other hand: what you see inthe 'edit' -area is what readsrs get to see when posted. Jan
  15. Perhaps the instructionmanual has an informative instruction ? Otherwise: you are old and wise enough to build your own hexagonal light-thingy. btw the pics of the original all show a sixsides glass-house on top of your building. You'll have to rebuild Jan
  16. Just thinking without checking: evergreen sells styrene tubes in various sizes. is it possible to open such a tube, slide it over the propellershaft and glue it to both motor and prop-shaft, thus replacing the rubber one? Evergreen can be painted, so it would attract less attention..? but perhaps thosetubes are way oversized? Jan
  17. It is the same: my link brings you at @dafi's site Jan
  18. http://www.dafinismus.de/plates_en.html#anker7
  19. Today I started the rings on the lids. Fiddly stuff (too fiddly for my fingers and my tools: carpet monster took abot half of them ) and fitted on my test-port lid. Outer diameter of the ring ist about 2 mm. Actually, these are adapted 3mm rings that I found a long time ago on a webshop long gone. Jan
  20. Which, as expected, looks far better than the paper parts Jan
  21. yes, you forgot something: XI: a nice gift-paper to wrap it all up (ad VII: certainly no stay-sails, and no preventer stays. Don't forget the shrouds and the all-important ratlines) Jan
  22. When you receive the kit, can you give us some of the history? Fentens advertises it as a Polish machine, named Bulgar, sometimes it is referred to as a German machine, but the pics in the internet suggest that it is a Bulgarian one (build in Poland, nicknamed 'Mother Bear') (registration number 46.03) (btw nice pattern for the rivetting :)) Jan
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