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amateur

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Everything posted by amateur

  1. amateur
    Hi Ab, In a sense, yes: the possibility to do it at the table in the living, without making a lot of dust, makes it a nice wayof modelling. For the moment, I stick to the 'not-so-elaborate' kits. Not too much stress, no need to work years on the same subject. The advantage of downloadable kits is that when you do it wrong, you just go to your printer and print a replacement-part. I like it. (although the very difficult models of e.g. HMV have some attraction ) Jan
  2. amateur
  3. amateur
    And it flies. Definitely the most difficult one so far.... Especially the steel thread on wich it is mounted proved a problem: I used slow setting two-component epoxy. Not a good idea: the stuff hardens way too slow (I even think I got the mixture of the two components not correct: the stuff remains elastic, and therefore, it was difficult to fix the thread to the internal stucture. I hope it holds.... But so far: the second wing and the head mounted, it is a 'realflying bird' in my cupboard. I like this one, as we have those finches flying around in our garden in autumn. That made two steamloco's and a bird. Now back to ships, I guess. Jan
  4. amateur
    Sorry, that I didn't make my remark far earlier, I suspected it before, but I thought that it was the pic....:( When you are goung to rip the planking off between frames 5-10, is there any way to ensure that although offf-center, the stern will be vertical? In the last pics it looks as if the last two frames are tilted to the left, resulting in an asymmetry, but also a 'non vertical' stern. An off-center stern is a pity, but from a distance not very visible, a non-vertical stern does attract attention (in a non-wanted way). Jan
  5. amateur
    I'm afraid there is a symmetry problem: I went trough all the pics, and the right side is consistently closer to the heartline than the left side, irrespective of camera-viewpoint.... I cant make out whether it is just the top of the aft frame out of line, a drawing error in the aft frame or something else. Jan
  6. amateur
    Was she painted an evenly blue, or did she had some camouflage patten on top of that blue coat? [edit: forget my question: the answer is in your first post ] On my screen the blue really pops out: is that because of a badly calibrated screen, or was this navy blue that kind of bright blue? Jan
  7. amateur
    That is because they are very well thought midels. Difficult to get it wrong. You need a printer, and firm, but not too thick paper. The birds are fun to do: and 1:1 scale is also fun: it doesnt look like a model, it looks real Jan
  8. amateur
    google for Johan Scherft. He does quite a lot of paper-birds. There may be something to catch for you Jan
  9. amateur
    It has been a while that I posted ship-related stuff here, but I have been busy all along. I did two very nice (and also very easy german locomotives), and I started a bird. This time a lifesize flying one: a goldfinch. No buildlog, butjust a couple of pics to show progress. Pretty well self-explaining. These birds by Johan Scherft are easy to build, and their appearance is quite lifelike. This one is a bit more work than the others I did so far, as it has spreaded wings (with a coupe of individual feathers per wing). I had some trouble to get the body nicely closed, so I hope the head will fit. If not, the whole things flies into the dustbin, I will make a new print and start from square one Jan
  10. amateur
    Nice model! btw: in the catalogue there is a drawing of another brig of the same periode: HMS Zephyr ( https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/84478.html ) The stem-configuration and the companionway do fit the model. Jan
  11. amateur
    Camouflage painted tri-plane, or another 'von Richthofen-red' one? jan
  12. amateur
    Out of three, my favorite is the grey one. It doesn't shout out, like the black one, and there is a nice balance in the upper and lower part of the galleries. But pics can be misleading, the real thing in broad daylight should be what counts the top painted is definitely better tham unpainted. Jan
  13. amateur
    Actually, you could argue that the dark version is too dark, and the unpainted too light. in both contemporeneous models, there is almost no contrast between the painted friese and the shingled roof: there is a colour difference,but not too much difference in heaviness of the colour. You could try a colour that matches the original model slightly more: a bluish grey slate, in stead of the rather stark black. And, although I will never try a modl like this myself, it is a joy to see how it should be done. I'm a daily visiting, non-posting admirer Jan
  14. amateur
    Thanks for the explanation! Jan
  15. amateur
    True, but actually, I was thinking of this loco compared to the ones that have their driving shafts on the outside of the frame. Do you know why some machines have the whole mechanics on the inside, I would think that maintenance would be far easier when you can easily reach all the moving parts.... Jan
  16. amateur
    It’s a shame that all that fantastic stuff is hidden inside that frame..... Jan
  17. amateur
    Sir, The bridge was open, and all the traffic lights went red. Sorry, I'm a bit late. Am I still allowed to enter class_room? Jan
  18. amateur
    Ah, well. Thought I was the only one not being able to recognize this as a model . I was looking for sailors in the pic, actually Jan
  19. amateur
    @mtaylor: Mamoli But as I can see, there is technical improvement in the mamoli-kits, but no 'historically accurate' improvement. Jan
  20. amateur
    Question: will you repaint your 'main model' into this new colour? (actually, I am starting to like the new looks and colours: far more subtle than the Maya die Biene-version) Jan
  21. amateur
    No, don’t use a fluid, just wipe away with a cloth (or paper towel) (And use a fairly thich aint) It leaves just enough to suggest the lead strips between the glazing. jan
  22. amateur
    Hi Ives, Are you sure that those are blocks in the antenna-wiring? They look like black porcelain isolators to me. Jan
  23. amateur
    But it should not go ‘in front’: a train in ‘push-mode’ was, as far i know, speed delimited, especially if low weihjt carriages are pushed. Jan
  24. amateur
    I think the answers of the first two questions are hidden in the mists of history..... The answer to the third question is (as far as I know) yes. Some small inland craft are still build kind of shell first: Although it is hardly a shell: those are mainly working boats, build on a heavy floor, and with sides made out of one or two heavy oak boards. The frames are put in after the sides are in place. check this one: https://www.dezeilpunter.nl/de-bouw-van-een-punter (don't forget the video that is embedded) It looks like shell first is just the upskaled version of this building technique. (but I don't know whether or not there is any evidence for that....) Jan
  25. amateur
    Don't overdo it: rule number 1 was to keep your machine as clean as possible. There willbe some buildup of grease, but on theotherhand, that is in spots that are easily accesible, so the driver wa/able to remove the build-up. The constant maintenace results in a rather evenly shine of the wheelfronts and driving shafts. the sand is not in contac with the machine: it is deposited on the rails, so no sand on the machine. Finally: trains get an amount of dust, but are not in contac with real dirt. So it shows up as a dusty film, mianly on the upper parts. you have to check the position of the fill-caps for the water and coal: those do show up quite clearly. Check out some of the railroad-building sites: subtle weathering is in my view far more effective than the 'shouting out' version. Jan

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