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amateur

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  1. amateur
    Perhaps no naval colours, but for a number ofaircraft, they used a winter/ summer scheme, and they also had night/day schemes for thier bombers. Those little planes look good. (And why is there a special place in hell foryou? Perhaps it will be heaven, as a reward for doing a great job) Jan
  2. amateur
    In case you are going to redo the anchors: you could also replace the wooden part itself: the grain should be running lengthwise, and not cross. However: I shouldn't redo anything if I were you, and just take the feedback to your next model Jan
  3. amateur
    Btw tommodelworks has them 3D printer in 1:700. perhaps they can scale up one or two for you? Jan
  4. amateur
    You'll need the rescaled paper version cut, glue, ready or cut glue, spray, filler, spray again, base colour, oil canning, spray again, chipping. Done. You can do it, and the bv 138 was a sea plane. Not designed for carries: it had no landinggear, it was mainly in use on those catapult ships: in the water, until loaded onto the launch platform, shot into the air. No need for wheels.
  5. amateur
    Today I spent the better part of the(rainy) afternoon on the 5 twin bofors anti-aircraft guns. I would have liked some of the parts ro be laser-cutted..... again, small parts, little guidance from the insteuctions. part 192 (the central 'housing' was to folded from a piece of card. I tried something different: I disected it into four separate parts, and glued those together, trying to get slightly crisper corners. The pieces became slightly smaller as a result. (I beveled the larger parts, to minimize the amount of white card visible.) the mount is fairly straightforward, but as the card does delaminate at sharp bends, it turned out a bit difficult to get it all squred up. I should have used the same strategy as for the boxy part. All five finished Next, I did the guns, using .5 mm evergreen, and .2 sofr copper wire. Believe me, the macro does look better than the original, the barrels won't line up properly.... aAnd last: a small 'testfit' on their final position. There should be a couple of small seat added, and some painting to do on the sides of the little floor. If it is rainy again tomorrow, I'll try to finish the other three... Jan
  6. amateur
    Depends on what you are looking for. The book describes quite a lot of ship types, and their rig. It also shows a number of typical setups for parts of the rig. Very interesting and informatieve, so yes, it is as good as it looks. but when you are looking for a complete and detailed drawing of the rig of a certaintype of ship (where do the various blicks go, how do the lines run, how thick are they, and where should they be belayed, it gives as good as no information. So, no, it is not very interesting and informative. The choice is yours Jan
  7. amateur
    Hi danny, Yeah, that'svthe one I meant. You wouldn't like the kit, though. It is JSC design, with all its problems. The 1:250 B&V looks convincing, though. Bussard was an interesting ship: it was the German answer to the fact the after WW-I treaties didn't germany allow for a carrier. (Shen ended a bit out of her original purpose after the war, as a dredger in Rotterdam....) Jan
  8. amateur
    The interservice squabbling was one of the major reasons she was never finished.....
  9. amateur
    You can ask @Dan Vadas to build some out of paper JSC has a german catapult-ship that includes the B&V 138 at scale 1:400. Some rescaling at the photocopier, and you're done certainly cheaper than that kit Jan
  10. amateur
    I like the planes on the deck (even inpaimted ) It gives a good impression of the size of the ship. Btw: if not using PE, how are you going to do the windowstruts and antannae of the planes?? Jan
  11. amateur
    And it wouldbe interesting to know when the messenger-system came in use. My guess would be that a Spanish galleon of around 1600 had a very basic anchor handling: just the anchor rope around the capstan, and nothing else. Jan
  12. amateur
    Hi Danny, I would rather like the in-between: 50 tiny parts is beyond my cutting capabilities, but they could have done more than four, or at least made the graphics more life-like, in stead of flat grey.... But again: nowhere else to go for Dutch ships. Jan
  13. amateur
    Here you can see how muchJSC simplified the capstans. Also: the cabledrums were smaller than the model suggests. and in the last pic you can also see again that the guns were rather small for a ship that was supposed to be the strongest of the fleet..... jan
  14. amateur
    And now complete with the breakwater (even that didn't fit properly ....)
  15. amateur
    Two months already .... time to get some glueoutof the bottle. Today I did the anchor"chain" and som small stuf on the front deck. I have to say: Scaldis has kept it rather basic, and still got me confused... these are the parts and this is the instruction (actually, this is how scaldis does quite a lot of its instructions: top-view, side-view, and the taxt says: puts parts 296-272 together and place on deck. Yeah.... so what to do: was part271 too small, or 270 too large, orwas it intentional? Nobody knows, and no way to check. I decided that it was intended so. The final result is not bad. placed on deck, it looks a bit flat, and not very inspiring. I don't have ideas how to spice thisup, so it is left as provided by Scaldis: Next part (thebreakwater) was again misprinted. JSC prints the parts two-sided. The problem is: they dont printa grey square onthebackside, wirh some margin for error, the justprint the part in reverse. Problem is: they have both sides off by almost a milimeter, which is rather annoying. And here the present state: breakwater stil drying, one cabledrum (unnumbered in the instructions, but printed) done (And no, the picture is in focus, the part ended up a bit fuzzy: the card used by JSC is rather fibrous: the print tends to crack up, and painting tends to loosen fibres along the edges. Not suitable for very crisp edges.... (I thoughtit was my poos handling, but I have come across otherbuildlogs of this one, and they struggled with thesame issues). Another problem: the card isnot very stiff, and althouogh I backed it up using 160 grams paper, the deck remains wavy, especially visible when you glue parts on it that should stand at 90 degrees to the waterline (eg capstans ) Jan
  16. amateur
    Yeah, I did notice. Quarter was a bit larger than I expected Jan
  17. amateur
    Hi Carl, Sure you aren't giving compliments to the Pontos beta-builders? Salty promises us the pompoms for tomorrow Jan
  18. amateur
    Sometimes I think it is not in the vision, nor the hand-eye, or something like that that does make you fit for the job. (although it may be helpful to have some basic levels at those too). I am completely blown away by the level of patience and determination you guys have with this PE-stuff. That is why I have so much admiration. I would rather quickly come to the point: what the heck, from a distance of around 1.5 meter everything looks OK. Jan
  19. amateur
    Not a very nice thing to see.... It looks as if the glue failed between two parts. Hope your replacement will be a bit stronger. Jan
  20. amateur
    But this is advertised as 1mm copper. https://www.vandijkenelektronica.eu/nl/wikkeldraad/1408-wikkeldraad-1mm-035-ohm-16m.html Or do we talk different things? Jan
  21. amateur
    Hi Ab, nice ships! Well worth finishing (some time in the future). I never came across 'wad konvooiers'. It does look like a 'statenjacht-like hull, but it is two-masted. How will itbe rigged? Squeare, like a two-masted hoeker, or...? Jan
  22. amateur
    Where doyoubuy your riggi g line and blocks? (or do you make them yourself?) Jan
  23. amateur
    Some interesting stuff also on Modelsnmoore.com jan
  24. amateur
    Loking for soft copper wire, you can also ty the electronic business: (try wikkeldraad in dutch). Available in various thicknesses Jan
  25. amateur
    Somewhere, there usedto be a fairly large archive of pictures of the original bluenose. Just can't find it anymore...... jan

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