amateur

West-frisian is a bit confusing terminology: in the Netherlands it refers to the northern part of North-holland, in Germany it ofter refers to anything west of their region Ost-friesland (wich is essentially the dutch provinces Groningen and Friesland). It is not correct to say that the Dutch ended the political independence of west-friesland when you refer to the dutch region west-friesland. The word 'dutch' did not come into existence after the napoleontic era. Before that the netherlands consisted of a political union of various regions, holland being the most important. The political freedom of the kingdom of frisia ended in 1300. The region around Hoorn.Schermer (the waling area) was part of Holland ever since the early middleages (the period were the zuijderzee became increasingly large). So if Frisian was ever the main language around Hoorn, it would have been around 1300, not around 1700. Around 1700 Dutch (which is essentially the dominant dialect spoken in holland) was standard in the western parts of the republic of the netherlands. The Frisian admirality operated from Harlingen (east side of the zuiderzee), and was a small admirality. The Frisian traders operated from Harlingen and Stavoren, and were mainly in the Baltic trade (wood and wheat) Whalers came from Holland, and not from Frisia. Whaling industry was located in Holland, not in Frisia. Jan

Could you please post a picture. I have some problem in getting the picture, and am afraid to advise you in the wrong way. Jan

In that case I understand why it is on indefinite hold. I didn't realize David sells preprinted kits, I only knew the free pdf-downloads. Jan

Actually, I didn't check that. Stern is the german translation I learned for the dutch wordt ster..... I never heard noorden ster. Noordster and poolster are quite common. I am not familiar with Frisian ( which is not a dialect, but a different language). Dutch whalers came from the region north-holland (schermer/de rijp). Poolsterre would be the name to use. @robert Lamba: where do you come from that you are familiar various dutch dialects, as well as flemish? Jan

On the bright side: as you have a pdf, you can repeat this one until you're happy That is - I think - one of the lessons you tried to teach us in your own card-tutorial. Jan

Nice little ship. I downloaded some of the free ships, but still hesitating, as there are so many alomost invisible parts... Although there is a nice Dutch monitor. Perhaps I will do that one. Jan

I checked: in books on navigation around 1775/1800 they wrote about the poolsterre. Both stern and sterne are german words. Couldn't find those in Dutchtexts. Jan

Hi Dan, the model of the Rex has been build by a rather famous shipbuilder. He knew what he was doing. As Dafi wrote: the slot in the upper deck has a cover (removable). The width of the slot is such that it remains just within the so-called schaarstokken: the heavy planks that are part of the main structure of the deck. The length of the whipstaff coming through the upper deck is around 3 ft, too little to be handled from the top dedk, but exactly the length you need to pustthe whipstaff down to gain maximum rudder-angle. and as both your and my drawings show: there is no need for a long slot: due to the fact that you push down the staff, the top of the staff goesunder the deck quite soon. Comparable, rather short slots can be seen on th epics of the HohenzollernModell and a model of a Dutch ship in Gent. They all suggest that the helmsman was not onthe uppereck, but one deck down. It was not unttil the inteoduction of the steering wheel that the helmsman got to the upper deck again. Jan

We had that discussion some time ago in a German forum. The opening in the upper deck is only to accomodate the overlenght of the whipstaff. The helmsmsn is down under, near the rowle. Ad you drew it: to get a reasonable rudder-angle , the opening in the upper deck should be enormous and thewhipstaff even longer. Doesn’t fit at all. I sketched this one for the discussion in that other forum. the end of the whipstaff goed under the upper deck even before half of the maximum rudderangle is reached. check the internet: the william Rex is a contemporeneous model: it shows a short opening on the upper deck. Jan

Wouldn't call this 'little build': in cardterms this thing is really huge Jan

I've been searching, and I have seen two (incomplete) buildlogs of this model on italian fora. Both logs showed the contents of the box: lots of parts, and a booklet with pictures, no drawings. I also found that the drawings by Lusci do not really match the model by disar.... Looks as if you are more or less at the deep end . Jan

On second thought: what do you meanby 'the kit has no plans' do you mean that there are no drawings included? In that case I would ask for them by the seller, as building a model without drawings is near impossible.....

Vincezo Lusci was an Italian writing some books on modelbuilding, somewhere around the late sixties. He made a couple of ship plans, that showed kind of 'archetypical ships', with a good sounding name on it. In germany you had Rolf Hoeckel, doing the same. I am pretty sure that this model is based on a number of paintings showi g spanish galleons, and not a historically accurate model of a specific ship. these 60-iesmodels make attractive models, but not historically accurate models. Even if it was a model depicting the state of the art knowledge on historic shipbuilding, the research has moved on since the 60-ies, so presumably not accurate and state of the art nowadays. having said that: it still makes and attractive looking model. and I don't see why there is a strange configuration near the keel: what I see is that the planks run a bit high along the stern, but that is due to the fact that all older kits, and quite a few modern ones, use rather stiff straight planks for the hull, while they should be spiled, and slightly inward curving. But perhaps you see something I don't.... Jan

Welcome to MSW. There is always someone here to help you out hoewever: we always ask for a small illustration of what you are working on. That helps us to give advice. So, may I ask for a picture? No need to send high quality pica in optimal lighti g. Just a cellphone camera will do. Jan

Just curious: you had some woodsplitting problems laat year. How did you manage to stop that? Jan

And nowit is done. the beak is a bit too dark. The instructions said black, and I already toned it down a bit with wome white. I think it should be grey, with some brown added. At least, now it is too stark. the two parts for connecting wings and body. They proved to be a bittrickyto get i the rightlocation. I have some remaining gaps in the front edge of the wing. And all done. I tried to take some pics in a more fitting background (garden), but the wind turned out too strong, so the bird flew away too quick toget some decent pics. But youget the general idea of thefinished product. As usual, small amount of parts, not much time needed (couple of hours, and you're done), but great run, and rather convincing result. Thinking what bird will be next.... Jan

Beautifull work! and every time I keep looking at the flag. That flag looks as if it is really moving in the wind. Jan

Fantastic work on this little large gun. If you remove that little coin, nobody would ever guess the gun is this small. just a question: is it my screen, or is e cent not round in the pictures. To me it looks as if the foto' have been resized in a wrong length-width ratio. Jan

Yesterday my mobile's battery went flat. So, no pics of separate pieces, blobs of glue, just the result of an evenings work. wings are on and here is the birds head, with an open (still unpainted) beak the beak is a cleverly shaped cone, placed inside the template shown in the previous post: the outside of the beak is build up using a couple of layers of glue (took me some time to realize that PVA worked better than normal paper glue: PVA has gap-filling properties. Paper glue has not. Also the sides of the beak have been filled using PVA. Some paint nedded to get the thing in the correct colour. Gluing the head to the body, two legs to be added, and two flaps to hide the gluing tabs on the wings. Should be possible to show you the flying thing tomorrow. Jan

A coupleof months ago you showed another one that looked promising to me. Any news on this one? jan

Given the level of detail you are adding, including the actual food is almost a must..... Jan

The others already told: nice to see a couple of new ones. Jan

Even if we have shut down, work will continue.... No additional time to read or build Jan

But as in the german cardforum guys started their corona-trigered spring-building, I couldn’t resist..... First the flat paper: Resulting in a nice curved body. Closing was a bit fiddly, but worked out OK Next came the tail section. Getting it properly inside the body proved to be a bit difficult. IN the end the section matches up with the tabs, but the tail is not completely level with the body.... And the preparations for the wings: the downloadkit does not provide the skewer, but the skewer is needed to get the wings in the prober angle, and to give them some firmness, preventing them to get loose. The wings itself were rather straightforward, although in the end not without a small problem: Upper and underside As the surface is quite large, and need to be glued, I placed a line to help me align both parts without having the need to adjust two quite soft, sticky surfaces. And all parts together: the two outmost feathers are modelled as separate parts. And there the small problem arose: bending over the underside of the wing turned out problematic: at the elbow the card tended to kink: no way to get the underside aligned with the indicated gluing area, getting the front side at the right angle and the card flat. Ah well, perhaps I wil do it again. Next the first part of the head: Clever construction: as the bird is singing, you need a way of aligning its beak (inside and outside). This rather stiff, four-layered card is a template: it has to be glued inside the head, then the beak is cut out, its throat glued in place, and the outside modelled, building it up to the desired thickness using layers of glue. Will see how that works out. Jan (to be continued)

I already found the answer to my question. Pet is on the internet (wiki-page crew works railway). So much to read and learn Jan