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amateur
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Question: will you repaint your 'main model' into this new colour? (actually, I am starting to like the new looks and colours: far more subtle than the Maya die Biene-version) Jan
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No, don’t use a fluid, just wipe away with a cloth (or paper towel) (And use a fairly thich aint) It leaves just enough to suggest the lead strips between the glazing. jan
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Hi Ives, Are you sure that those are blocks in the antenna-wiring? They look like black porcelain isolators to me. Jan
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But it should not go ‘in front’: a train in ‘push-mode’ was, as far i know, speed delimited, especially if low weihjt carriages are pushed. Jan
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I think the answers of the first two questions are hidden in the mists of history..... The answer to the third question is (as far as I know) yes. Some small inland craft are still build kind of shell first: Although it is hardly a shell: those are mainly working boats, build on a heavy floor, and with sides made out of one or two heavy oak boards. The frames are put in after the sides are in place. check this one: https://www.dezeilpunter.nl/de-bouw-van-een-punter (don't forget the video that is embedded) It looks like shell first is just the upskaled version of this building technique. (but I don't know whether or not there is any evidence for that....) Jan
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Don't overdo it: rule number 1 was to keep your machine as clean as possible. There willbe some buildup of grease, but on theotherhand, that is in spots that are easily accesible, so the driver wa/able to remove the build-up. The constant maintenace results in a rather evenly shine of the wheelfronts and driving shafts. the sand is not in contac with the machine: it is deposited on the rails, so no sand on the machine. Finally: trains get an amount of dust, but are not in contac with real dirt. So it shows up as a dusty film, mianly on the upper parts. you have to check the position of the fill-caps for the water and coal: those do show up quite clearly. Check out some of the railroad-building sites: subtle weathering is in my view far more effective than the 'shouting out' version. Jan
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I was wondering: there are about 20 people displayed in that model, so it looks quite large and 'roomy'. What was the full combat crew? 40 or so? Jan
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It looks as if those are mrealy functional brakes.... great job on the wheels. Jan
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To add on this, in the Netherlands it was not the first shrould going single, but the last one. This is a pic of a contemporeneous modell (1650, destroyed in WWIi in Berlin), showing the Dutch solution of that period just a single rope, with a half-hitch around the masttop.
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two ships by the same name in the same Navy
amateur replied to AON's topic in Nautical/Naval History
LIke the list in Wiki: The NMM gives plans for a 20 gun 6th rate ship (1755), named Squirrel a 24 gun 6th rate build in 1785 and a 16 gun second class brig (1853). No others mentioned aoudn 1785, and no 28 guns.... Jan -
Larger than I thought. .. Jan
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Maybe, but this one looks fabulous. Something different from the "steamloco's are black or green"-standard. (Did you intentionally leave out the camo-stripe on the left side of the driver-cabin?) btw: I am still guessing for the size of this machine. How long is the model? Jan
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Other type of br52, but you get some idea of how Br52 looks on the inside Jan
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Can't remember where I read it, but a German guy was complaining that Trumpeter just made stuff up: it looked OK, but it was in no way a 'model' of the original cabin: levers missing, placed on the wrong side etc. The result looking good, though Jan
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Enzo Ferrari by CDW - Tamiya - 1:12 Scale - PLASTIC
amateur replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I have been looking for quite a while at those pics. I would have believed anyone telling me these are pics of the real car, and not a model. Jan -
Hi Ab, Thanks for the answer. Funny though: Van Beek doesn't list this stuff in its webshop. I'll have to go to Amsterdam and visit the Rijks. (Actually, I don't like Amsterdam very much these days, it is so completely overcrowded) Jan
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Hello Ab, in anorher thread you explained you building method: grey card for the framing, soft cardboard for the outer hull. I tried to find that softer board. My local supplier (arts and crafts) doesn’t sell it. What is more, they don’t recognize my description. They come up with atiff passepartout-board, or foamboard, or even bristol-board. on the internet I can find so-called finnpappe (can only find it in German sites), but they charge ridiculous prices for transport to this side of the border. So here is my question: where do you buy yours? Jan
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Ah, this is were you are hiding Nice work on the loco's! Jan
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The fingertip in one of those instructions is helpfull Just for my idea: how large(small) are those airplanes? I guess you can get at least two on your thumbnail? Jan
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Two pics from my build: the long tackle block is secured with a half hitch, and two seizings : the first pic is just after making the seizings, the second in the final (and due to loooong building times, somewhat dusty) state. fir reference: block is 5.5 mm, serving thread is gutermann machine tarn from the shop around the corner. Jan
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It also depends on the scale: what os acceptable ar 1:100 might be rather unsightly at 1:24 scale. at large scales you will need to strop the block, and splice the rope into the strop. at 1:100 you can gake a lot of things, without creating visual problems (unless you are a purist,than you have to strop at 1:100) After much trial an error I landed at : rope around block, half hitch under the blick to secure the block in place, and a seizing to fix the running end. Fix with diluted white glue (which makes sure it holds, but can bevremoved when really necessary) Works easy, quick, and the result looks fine to me Jan
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No, the fun starts when/where he is doing something wrong He will do more research, rips down his wrongs, and start all-over. Jan
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Although I like your little parts, I start wondering: when (if ever) will work on the 'main model' continue?? Jan
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