amateur

Any country in mind? Or just ‘period’?

Not much available , I think: it is either earlier (mayflower, Wasa), or quite a bit later: victory or cuttty sark (i know, there is more than these four  )

Only one that comes to my mind is Friesland (mamoli), around 1670, but outside your scale range (1:75)

Jan

Nope: wood is not metal. There is more to gain from prebending your wood, in order to prevent stress. (Using moisture/heat/and sometimes a template to get the correct bend)

After assembling your hull will be (at least almost) symmetrical, so that remaining stress will more or less ‘even out’. 

As far as my knowledge goes: after carefully bending and fitting your planks, they should attach with relatively little stress. Therefore, once you glue them (both to the bulkheads and their neighbors) there is no need, and no method for stress relieving. In fact: any excessive heat/moisture after building your hull will damage your work.

Jan

Any thoughts on long-term colour-changes? Matching the colour of the surrounding wood might be tempting, but if that material doesn’t change colour, and the wood does (or they both change in opposite directions) going for contrast might be a better option from the start.

I like the crispness of the windows and the scrollwork.

Jan

Yup, that is what I mezn. That first pic is very, very convincing.

jan

You should stop fooling us: photoshopping pics of the original into your workbench.

Honestly: placed in a dioramasetting, and on a (BW) foto taken from a low angle it would be difficult to see this is ‘just’ a model.

Jan

Have you seen Tom Grigats version of this kit on Youtube (Toms modelling in Motion). You can do fantastic things with this kit….

Jdn

Nice lines!

Jan

Are there any sails on the model? Set 'square' looks a bit boring, compared to the more 'dynamic looking 'braced ons.

But set at an angle with sails, I have read (somewehere on this vast forum....) that the upper yards actually should be braced closer to the wind than the lower ones. If so an equal angle for all the yards is not as static/boring as the square setting, but it might trigger some comments of the type 'that your sail-handling it al wrong'

From a more practical point of view: the angled setting saves some space/glass for your glass show case.

Jan

On display in the museum on Texel. Still not seen it, high on my wishlist.

jan

Hi Phil,

I got a message that you answered my post, butvthere is no answer…. Did you delete it?

Jan

Hi Phil,

I guess you know the build-logs by Doris. She does not stick the wood-grain onto cardboard before planking, but she first 'planks' her ship, and uses the woodgrain stuff as a final layer on top of the 'planked', puttied and sanded hull.  

She closes the hull not with long card 'planks', but using the "shipyard"-method, using cardbord in a vertical orientation between the frames.

Jan

Found it

Jan

Buildlog, please…….

Lashings for small topmasts wete not yotally uncommon at the time. Especially round the mediterranean. As far as I remember, the reconstructions of Santa Maria also show this kind of setup. 
Also on the large galleys they used lashings as means to connect large pieces of wood for the main yards.

Jan

Yes, that’s am impresive one. 
Tom builds very beautiful models, clean crisp paintwork.

How he combjnes that with stop-motion is unbeleivable.

Jan

Have you tried contacting @*Hans*?
He should be able to help you

Jan

Crosstree, thanks, that was the word I was looking for…

but the ship is the Harriet McGregor, and I cant’t find sny pics of her (or any model of her) showing a mizzen top with shrouds. At least not with enough shrouds to have a full set of futtock shroulds, or ratlines to the top of the mizzen mast.

Hence my question whether the top as shown on the model is correct

Jan

Or… was rhere a top, or just a kind of spreader? There were no shroulds

Scaldis has some nice ones also.

or Wilhelmshafener: https://www.papermod.com/D-Shop-23/contents/de/d8.html

Jan

Hello Pierre,

Welcome to MSW. I can’t help you with the requested drawing. The only thing I can do to help you is suggesting that you put an ‘informative title’ on your topic. Something like ‘looking for Aeropicola Serapis drawings’

Btw we have a ‘new members -section’ Putting a messgae overthete, presenting youself, will draw some attention to you, and your question here.

Jan

Did someone take a bottle of real-life black boatlacquer home to paint his model? 

It does nog have the looks of just black paint: it's very high gloss and a rather thick layer. Almost llike the real thing.

Do you know the age of the model? That might help to identify what was used.

I was wondering whether a putty-repair should be done, or a repair in wood. Some kinds of putty contract differently to moisture-variations than real wood. In that case, you will have a crackline were wood and putty meet rather soon. On the other hand: the dammage is a rather messy one, so just adding a pieco of wood, is not straightforward either.....

Jan

Surprised at how heavy that mast is. Those sailors wanted to be sure

Jan

This is al deck and interior related pics I have.....

Pics were taken march 5th, 2010 when the ship was in Utrecht for a winter-overhaul.

Therefore most deckfittings (decklights) were covered in tarpaulin......

I hope they are of some use to you, as the requested structures are not in the pics

Jan

Did you consider correcting the 'waviness' of the sides before adding the 'inner planking'? Adding this additional layer might stiffen up the sides, making the straightening-up more of a challenge.

Jan

Like Louis writes: not my type of ship/my period. Difficult to leave ‘suggestions’, especially while the model looks rather well built.

Just a question: I’m a bit lost on scale and size (both the original vessel and the model).   Am I far off in guessing 30 centimeter model of a ship around 9 meters?

Jan