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Posts posted by EKE
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4 minutes ago, Glomar said:
Absolutely love your building log for this @EKE, and this has been super helpful for my building of the Nisha, so thank you for the excellent job explaining your build! What paint brand did you end up using for the red oxide paint?
Thanks! Glad you found the log useful, Glomar.
The bottom paint was PlastiKote Red Oxide Primer. Rattle-can all the way.
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Hi, friends! I’m still here. Been absolutely buried on new projects at work, so I had to put Flirt aside for several weeks. I have finally been able to spend a bit of time moving it forward, though, and I thought I’d give you all an update.
I pre-beveled all of the filling parts, and glued them in place. I tried to be careful not to over-bevel them, so that I can bring them down to correct shape during the final fairing. I completed the basic framing, installing the transom beams, and gluing all of the deck girders in place.
Next up is was the installation of the plywood upper deck, but before that went in, I painted the bulkhead with the little door with a grey-green acrylic, so that it would look a bit more finished when when looking through the hatch of the finished model.
Then I installed the upper false deck, which is light plywood, and very flexible. The deck needs to be gently bent with a crown at the centerline, and then it will snap into place in the little slots in each bulkhead. I recommend being careful when doing this, as there are a few places where the bulkheads are a bit thin where the bulwarks start. The MDF material is brittle, and you don’t want to break anything.
The deck fits beautifully, it’s very accurately shaped. It is designed to have a very slight crown in the middle, and it naturally sits right down on the bulkheads and girders. No clamping really needed, but a did clamp in a couple of spots just for insurance. I used PVA glue to bond the deck in place.
Next up, installation of the transom, and then final fairing of the frame to prepare for planking. Hoping to find a bit more time in my schedule to keep this moving forward.
-Erik
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Question for Chris and James: will sails be offered for Erycina and Nisha?
- chris watton and thibaultron
- 2
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She looks so precious and small!
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I can’t tell you how excited I am for these kits! I just love the look of these working craft, and I can’t wait to build them so they can take a place next to my Zulu.
- thibaultron and chris watton
- 2
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This is just so impressive. Wonderful job, James and Chris! I expect that you will sell as many as you can make, Mr. Watton.
- mtaylor, chris watton, Ryland Craze and 1 other
- 4
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36 minutes ago, catopower said:
EKE, I have the hull started for Woody Joe's 1/75-scale kit of the Dutch-built corvette Kanrin Maru. Maybe I mentioned this earlier in this post, but Woody Joe does their homework. I purchased some plans from a museum in the Netherlands and used it to check the Woody Joe kit's hull, and it's spot on. I think you'll find the same is true of the Cutty Sark (as well as the Susquehanna).
Great to hear, Clare. I'll give a report when I receive the goods.
-E
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- Canute, GrandpaPhil, mtaylor and 1 other
- 4
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16 hours ago, myxyzptlyk2003 said:
Excellent. Thanks much for the info. Here in the states I found a matt finish acrylic varnish. So I'll give that one a try. I hope I can replicate at least some of the level of finish you have on your models.
And here in Wisconsin, it is very hard to find a matt finish varnish in my area. Lots of gloss, semi gloss and satin. But hardly any matt finish.
During my Zulu build, I experimented with these three varnishes, and I ended up using the Minwax water-based Polycrylic varnish. I think it’s terrific stuff. Goes on a milky white, but dries perfectly clear. It has a very nice color on the pearwood from the kit. It has a self-leveling quality, so that you really don’t see brushstrokes after it dries. And cleanup is easy, as it’s water based. I recommend trying it. I got it delivered from Amazon. -
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I've been thinking about future projects, and I've always wanted to build a great clipper ship. I've looked at all of the notable kit options (Red Jacket, Flying Fish, Thermopylae, etc.) , but I noticed that WoodyJOE offers several versions of Cutty Sark. There's a huge, 1:80 version that's over 40"long, and then a 1:100 version, with or without sails.
I may see if I can purchase the 1:100 without sails. It's about 34" long. From what I can tell, the quality, packaging and instructions are similar to the Susquehanna. I think Cutty Sark would be a good clipper to build, since there is abundant information available on her, and I could bash a bit to bring it up to a higher level. I'd certainly want to do real copper plating on the hull.
- thibaultron, catopower, Dziadeczek and 6 others
- 9
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Ed-
I was doing a search on MSW on clippers, and discovered this log for Young America. I have spent the last few days pouring over it with fascination and admiration. I have seen many magnificent models here, by many master modellers. But I have to say, I haven't seen anything quite like this incredible creation. I mean it when I say:
This is a masterwork.
Thank you for bringing it into the world, and thank you for sharing your technique in such beautiful detail. I know I'll continue to learn from referring to this log for years to come. As a beginning ship modeller, I have to say this is invaluable.
With admiration,
Erik
- Keith Black, RichardG and Tony Hunt
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5 hours ago, chris watton said:
Cheers! All sorted....
Damn… I was about to order one…(kidding.)
- thibaultron, mtaylor and chris watton
- 3
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Sorry Chris! You just got me excited when I saw the new fishers.
- thibaultron, mtaylor and Canute
- 3
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Thanks for posting the video, Richard. Excellent! I’ve bookmarked the whole series on YouTube.
- Canute, thibaultron, Rik Thistle and 2 others
- 5
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Lady Isabella by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Zulu
in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1851 - 1900
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Looks great DB!