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dafi
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To finish the support columns, I pressed it against a piece of wood, so they were more easy to handle. Placing it on a thin acrylic and using a sanding block, one can achieve very accurate angles. The black primer and developing the tendril, first the main body, the the blossoms. As I have more control with normal paint than with the metallic paints, I like to put a layer of ochre underneath. Then some Humbrol gold and same Warcraft gold, to accentuate with some reddish shines, plus a tad of black ink where necessary. In the meantime I refined the port, giving it a step like the gun ports to give a stop for the lids. Then gave the roof a aluminum foil from Hasegawa, splashed a mixture of ink, white and detergent onto it ... ... and here we are ... OK, the guys from the tin roof have to come for some touch ups, but otherwise I am quite happy :-) Cheers, Daniel -
The "Mark One" Steps were stuck on the hull, UHU-Plast flooded into the gap in the back, and thick paint to cover it up. Worked well as it stayed on the ship for more than 10 years :-) For some reasons did not work this time ... But I better spare you THOSE Pictures. So pulled down the paint again - was easy as it was to thick and come down like a rubber coat. Instead of the usual car filler I lately use the 2 component sculpting masses. More time to work with and being able to place it properly and still form it to the wanted effect. My favourite is Apoxie Sculpt, a small saussage of 0,3 mm placed on the gap ... ... and squeezed in with a moistened wooden stick, moulded and already taken out the surplus material. After drying the fine tuning ... ... with some sanding paper glued onto an old blade :-) Also easy to fit other places ... ... like a small blister on the edge of the cast of the canopy. Also works for the steps. After modelling I just lift it up from its place and add some CA underneath with the help of a toothpick, like this it wont come of while sanding to form.
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cable laid vs rope (left vs right twist)
dafi replied to davec's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Coming back to the original question: If my memory serves me well, from a circumference of 9 inch it was cable laid (left/s twist). Thinner cable laid ropes were called cablets in my understanding. Steel, 54: CABLES, ropes made of nine strands, that are nine inches and upwards in circumference. CABLETS, cable-laid ropes, under nine inches in circumference. XXXDan -
Thank you Sirs :-) In fact, those old steps were already for quite a while on the to-mess-up-list - that is why I tackled the refined ones :-) Actually those first ones were some kind of historic parts: the first details beyond oob on the model :-) Mark one still with Humbrol Colors. At a later stage the supports underneath were added, but still - the base was too thick for my liking. So here already come the replacement parts ... ... first cleared up ... ... the whole thing ... ... and then carefully choosing some important steps in the circle of life of a big ship :-) Cheers, Daniel Already looking forward for the first touch of paint on the new ones :-) XXXDAn
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Doing what I can do best ... ... DESTRUCTION ... ... and even ... ... more DESTRUCTION ... ... okokokok ... ... I also cleared up ... ... the whole thing ... ... and then carefully choosing some important steps in the circle of life of a big ship :-) Cheers, Daniel
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That was worth it :-) Cheers, Daniel
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Miracles happen ... ... I finally found time to finish the refined side steps on the spare kit ... ... first prepared single steps ... ... and here the revised version with the different depth of the steps underneath the admirals entrance :-) Still a tad uneven, as just being fixed on double sided tape, but very near to what I wanted. XXXDAn
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Love it. Hope i will be able to touch my little Mistery again soon. XXXDAn
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Finally ... ... finished the canopy, was working on the whole set since late last year. dafis law for modelmakers Nr 57: If a part is not working well - try not to fix it - make a new one! Here are the 4 parts for the entrance port: Canopy, two pillars and the carvings with crown and coat of arms over the entrance. And immediately the fitting test: And here the painted version as shown before. Cheers, Daniel PS: I did not cut the port yet as I dot know if I still need the hull other wise ...
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As always, make wooden samples and test it before you touch the real thing :-) DAniel
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Hy Kevin, should be applicable without problem. I used casein paints. A bit smelly - rotten milk - but wonderful to work with. If the wood is painted, you can apply the paint in thin layers with different shades until the wanted effect is reached or even take a wet cloth and take the paint off and restart over again. Once really dry it always will stay water soluble but is strong enough to hold it in the hand without leaving marks - if hands are not too wet ;-) Cheers, Daniel
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The lines appearing lighter than in reality as they are superexposed in the picture as the camera takes the larger darker regions as reference. Wonderful testings!!! How does the "hanging" rope react to the paint? Does it make the fibers to stand up as wood does when wet? Cheers, DAniel
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What an enjoyable build :-) XXXDAn
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Thank you very much Michael - just trying to do the best with my humble means :-) XXXDAn
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Thank you Sirs :-) Very appreciated. Cheers, Daniel
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Completely lost this one out of sight - shame on me! Daniel
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Simply love it :-) XXXDAn
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Oh that feels great ... ... after being off for that many weeks - job, holiday, job - now back on the drug ... ... back in the shipyard again :-) I already showed the carving ... ... I tried long to finally find the right way to display those tendrils on the supports of the side entry port canopy. Positive carving, modeling with clay - nothing worked. Then the idea to carve it in the negative way ... ... and have a thin cast and glue it together :-) Here the family juwels: Left bottom the old casted parts from the carved styrene carvings of the ones on my model. Left top sculpted with Magic Sculpt - not successful - , then the negativ carvings with a thin cast, below left the first test and right the improved carving with the thin face side sculted with Magic Sculpt and right the final casts and black the final cast with primer :-) From near it looks like this: And with some paint it is near what i wanted to achieve ... ... then the small crown underneath the canopy with its flags ... ... both parts together ... ... feels good :-) Now just the new canopy ... Cheers, Daniel
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Love it, thanks for showing! It is nice, that the coils have different sizes. Often seen is a standard size on all the pins. But each rope had a different length that needed to be coiled, so: Thumbs very much up!!! XXXDAn
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The length of Rammer etc. is very easy: Length of the barrel plus some extra to handle it properly :-) And - my god - I found out that they are loooong for the big guns. #518 Cheers, DAniel
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Not necessairily it was empty at the end of the trip: Empty barrels were filled with sea water to readjust the trim because of the lack of weight :-) XXXDAn
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Wonderful wooden cleats. If they are still needed even smaller, here a little commercial for the case, if it is allowed :-) http://www.dafinismus.de/plates_en.html#anker7 Cheers, Daniel
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With about 28 gun ports just one side on the lower deck ... ... would have been a 180 to 190 Gun-Ship :-) XXXDAn
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Papa got a brand new toy :-) Until now I used a low-cost-solution: 7 Euro from the supermarket 3 dioptrien with LED! But then the fam saw me looking at those magnifiying glases at the optitian ... ... and surprise! Got them for X-Mess :-) Restartet doing some micro-surgery ... ... and therfore: Big Grin !!! With 130 Euro a bit more expensive then my old one, but much more comfortable than the ones that go around the head, almost no weight, no destroyed hairdo and to be worn over the normal glases and better vision than my cheap glases. http://www.eschenbach-optik.com/de/Lesehilfen.784.0.html?&cHash=de7a55807c44bae3c1a25d2ff5130fce&tt_products=164452%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20 Cheers, Daniel
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