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Seventynet

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Everything posted by Seventynet

  1. Seventynet
    Looks phenomenal Rob! it brings the ship to life. I'm really going to have to learn how to paint those glittle guys. Best, Ian
  2. Seventynet
    CC Victory builders, Given the contortions I have to put the upper gundeck through to get it through the upper bulkhead works and the obvious risk of it snapping during said process, I think I see the wisdom of cutting the upper gundeck down the middle. I know some of you have done this. Aside from accounting for the missing area from the blade kerf, is there anything I need to consider if I take this approach? I think I would simply leave the blade cut gap open when I glue down the halves and just plank over it. Comments from anyone who has gone through this? Thanks, Ian
  3. Seventynet
    Hi Robert, thanks for the encouragement and for looking in. I saw others using the waxing technique and decided to give it a shot, it can't hurt anyway. Good luck with your starboard side, but it doesn't look like you need any. Hi Heinz, Thanks for the compliment and for following my build. I have been thinking about how I'm going to line the gun ports (the ones with lids). I'm probably going to try a few different approaches because it looks like they all have some advantages. I will have to discover what works best for me. Part of Vasileios' approach appeals to me. He created a box channel of the exact dimension of the gunports (I know others have done this to varying degrees), inserted it into each gun port then marked it thereby transcribing the curve of the hull, removed it, cut it, then reinstalled it flush with the unplanked hull. I do note that he put his liners in before his second planking but that would not work unless you were very careful to end your second planking at the edge of the plywood gunport because as you say, the liners need to be inset. So that part of his approach is too risky for me. My modification would be to push the liner in to be flush with the plywood surface. Anyway his link is: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3704-hms-victory-by-vasileios-caldercraft-172/#entry334081 Many others installed balsa supports before they installed their liners - which doesn't directly address your concern about the curve of the hull, but most seem to have done a pretty good job to me. I like the jig that Gil Middleton used to insert his liners - with the small level: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/485-hms-victory-by-gil-middleton-caldercraft-172/page-1#entry8176 Anyway, the main thing for me is that it isn't planking! Best, Ian
  4. Seventynet
    Don, With that kind of blade, at 0.1mm, it makes all the difference. The first cm of the blade isn't supported so unless it has a smooth run it will fold and potentially ruin the blade. Hey thanks for looking in and leaving the compliment. Best, Ian
  5. Seventynet
    Hi Folks, I have completed planking up to the bottom of the upper gun ports, cut out the gun ports as I planked, installed the main mast partner and applied two coats of wipe-on-poly to the middle gun deck. Now I think I'm ready to start the installation of the upper gun deck, bulwarks and lining the lidless gun ports. I wanted to show the technique I used for cutting out the gun ports - which for this model means cutting out the second planking. An option I did not follow was to cut the planks to the edge of the ports before I glued them. This seemed like too much work and would result in more mistakes. I cut the planks a day after I glued each row. I marked them with a jig exactly matching the openings. Sandpaper on the bottom of the jig so it wouldn't slip as I penciled in the line. I cut the planks using a ninja hyper saw which I waxed before each vertical cut. Horizontal cuts were mostly with a sharp chisel. I sanded the edges with a sanding stick, leaving fat where I could for when it comes time to fit the lids. The results were generally ok. Best, Ian Jig used to mark the ports: Marking the port: Waxing the saw: Cutting the port: Main mast partner: Middle gun deck wipe-on-poly:
  6. Seventynet
    Robert, Believe me with your job on the first planking your second will be a breeze. Thanks for the compliment and for looking in. Best, Ian
  7. Seventynet
    It looks like you accomplished a magnificant fit! I could not avoid a a few bulkheads peeking out of some of the gun ports, but you seem to have done this. Very good. I can't give you any advice regarding leaving or removing the nails because I didn't use any. But I can't see any reason that they couldn't be pounded in either. Best, Ian
  8. Seventynet
    Folks, I don't know whether you knew about these saws, they look exactly the same but with more options - and ridiculously expensive! http://www.flex-i-file.com/hyper-cut-saws-blades.php I purchased the Ninja Hyper Cut Saw - Angled fine cut. I reckon it has at least 3 teeth per mm. I use it to cut out my gun ports. One has to be very careful to not be too eager with the stroke or the blade will fold and I'm sure make you curse your investment. I wax the blade before every cut. Best, Ian
  9. Seventynet
    Facinating build Charlie, thanks for detailing all the steps. Best, Ian
  10. Seventynet
    Hi Mark, thanks for looking in and for your advice. The sheen is kind of growing on me, it's mainly its effect on pictures. Once I've made more progress maybe I'll try the indirect lighting approach. By the way I am thoroughly enjoying the Licorne build. I learn something every time I look at it. Best, Ian
  11. Seventynet
    Thank you for the kind words Chris, Robert and Rob and for the likes Mark. I've just finished, this minute, planking up to the bottom of the upper wales on both sides, as per instructions. Just a few gun ports to clear and some minor cleanup and I can move on to the upper gun deck, inner bulwarks and lining the lidless gun ports. Best, Ian
  12. Seventynet
    Those masts look straight and right in line. Keep up the great job! Best, Ian
  13. Seventynet
    Looking very sharp waspy. Looks like you might be having some fun soon cutting out one or two gunports .​ Best, Ian
  14. Seventynet
    What a super job Robert! I really felt spoiled by using filler blocks - and if I had any regrets it's that I didn't use more. There's one area between bulkheads 2 and 3 and the stem/keel that you may want to test ahead of time to see if an abbreviated filler block would be helpful. It's an area where the garboard plank(s) come to a sharp taper and might benefit from some support. You may decide that it's not necessary I just remember finding it useful - but that was also my first planking job so take it with a grain of salt. Best, Ian
  15. Seventynet
    Hello Robert, nice to see another Calgarian in the Victory club. Nice job! Have fun with the gun ports. What method will you use to cut them out? Best, Ian
  16. Seventynet
    You have been doing a great job and really ripping along. You've certainly left me in the dust! I really like the run of the planks and how you tapered them up to the bow. Best, Ian
  17. Seventynet
    Beautiful looking job Michael. Such a pleasure to follow your build. Best, Ian
  18. Seventynet
    Hi Chris, you are doing an excellent job planking. Nice tight fit! I especially like the pattern of the wales. Best, Ian ​
  19. Seventynet
    Very nice job Robert! Best, Ian
  20. Seventynet
    That looks so good Heinz and it does indeed look alive. Thanks for sharing your superb craftsmanship. Ian
  21. Seventynet
    Thank you for the kind words and looking in Shihawk, Don and Greg and for the likes ianmajor, Mort, Hexnut and others. It makes me feel like I have high expectations to fulfill as I inch along at a snails pace. Best, Ian
  22. Seventynet
    Mike those bulkhead filler blocks are going to make life easier when you get around to planking. Thanks for sharing. Best, Ian
  23. Seventynet
    Greetings, again, I really have very little to report since last time except I have applied wipe-on-poly (WOP) to the hull below where the lower wale will be fixed. I just wanted to seal the hull. As I explained to Don I had a challenge with residual PVA. I thought I had scraped/sanded the hull down to bare wood everywhere but the WOP revealed its presence. Although I simply had to scrape/sand off the poly to get at it, it did result in several re-applications. Not much of an issue really. Put it down to inexperience and declining eyesight. My pictures now suffer from light reflection. No idea how to fix this. Best, Ian
  24. Seventynet
    Sorry Chris, that's way out of my knowledge base. However I wonder if it would be logical to assume that the maximum width of the real stock would be controlled by the length of the plank. IOW if the curve for a 20 foot plank required a plank wider than they possessed, the plank length would be limited to something less than that. Maybe a serious spile would be addressed by a less wide 10 foot plank. Does that make sense?
  25. Seventynet
    Hi Chris, I think the only thing that will tell you how wide the plank needs to be is the curve itself and the length of the plank - revealed through the many techniques used to define the spile. I use transparent tape. Anyway, the wood I used (mansonia aka African walnut) became more conducive to edge bending through two approaches - tapering (and there's where you can do a semi-spile by cutting/sanding part of the curve into the plank you are tapering) - and steaming/soaking the plank, then prebending and clamping it into the actual bend (let it dry, refine the fit and then glue in place). I do not think you risk a plank popping later on if you follow that method. However, there is a limit to how far you can edge bend and the wood will tell you that (it will fold in on itself). Again, IMHO, spiling is the preferred way if you can get the stock. Best, Ian

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