Chuck
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Oh boy...you are only limited by your imagination. Check out the NMM site and the gallery of contemporary model here at MSW. Chuck
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That will do just fine. Chuck -
Planking at the bow should have a gentle "S" curve where it flattens out as it butts the stem. This creates the flat area from one side of the stem to the other. To better explain see this new doctored image which is a corrected version of your planking. Although exaggerated a bit. Chuck
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Just taper the extreme bow of the sheer strake. It will be fine. The frieze strip will fit fine. Remember not to over-think the process. It will look great. NO need to start over. Chuck
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Very nice...although the photo of the bow fully planked should be flatter,. See this image of your model. You planking comes to a point on an angle and this may make it difficult to put the caprail on effectively. The cap rail should be flat just abaft the stem. I am not sure how you will achieve this however if the sheer planks followed the path of the green line it would be much easier. Hope that helps. Chuck
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Very nicely done!!
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That is looking so good Len. Very nice job. Your paint work is very precise and that is evident in your pictures. The rigging is coming along nicely, you are certainly kicking it up a notch.
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Thats exactly how I do it. Wonderful explanation. The one thing I might add is that the twisting can be put into the plank ahead of time as well. I usually dip the plank in some water for about 5 seconds. Then clamp the bow end of the plank to the table. Twist the plank carefully as to not change or remove the edge bending. Heat it up with a hair dryer on the hottest setting. This will lock in the twist. You can shape the plank so it will fit perfectly without any coaxing required to put it into place. Chuck Well done Augie.
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Unfortunately we will not be able to give you access to the drawings. This is one of the stipulations of the original drafters and the admin agrees. There is really no need to redraw them as they are already drawn electronically and made available to model builders. I dont understand why you would simply copy them in CAD since they are already done. Sorry, but we can not allow. The only reason I can think of would be to have all parts available to laser cut or fabricate. Something the original project was not intended for. Plus there are no controls to ensure the parts are not sold or reused for other purposes. It would not be fair to the folks who worked for years researching and drafting the electronic plans we already have. Chuck Admin.
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That looks very good. Well done. Chuck
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If you are going to make a mold and cast the others. Why not buy just one each of the proper sizes. That wont be costly and you could castthe rest from those masters. Chuck
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Who would of thought my twelve pounders would ever be used as swivel guns. They look very good and if your hand was not in that picture to show scale, you would think they were small and the to scale as if on a 1:48 scale model. Chuck
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Looks good. But you you should absolutely taper that stem more where the figurehead will go. It should be a gradual taper so the sten thins down quite a bit where the figure sits. Chuck
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Looking Good Augie... Of course those scrapers work!!! Sometimes the etching goes too long and the point is a little dull. But for soft woods it works a treat. I have to deepen the grooves for harder woods. You will notice many extra profiles on the sheet. You wont need then for the kit,...I just thought I would throw in several extras. They come in real handy. SHH!!! Dont tell EXPO
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Yes the kit as I researched is intended for those 8 and up. At least according to the few places I saw it offered. Its only about $25. Chuck
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That is OK but its a kids model for eight year olds. But I wouldnt prevent you from bilding it here at MSW. Chuck
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Yes I was but I cant think of a logical place to put it.....can you send it to me in a PM. I imagine I will just keep it on hand as most will end up contacting me for it. I suppose I am logical keeper of that list. Chuck
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I never worked one up...but I am sure that someone here in this forum has a list. Its basically just whatever is on the materials list plus a sheet for the keel and stem and transom.... Chuck
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Really look terrific...well done. Really hope you had fun with it.
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Wonderful drawings....This will be a very interesting project. Chuck
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Great looking project Ben. I will be following along with much interest and so far you are doing a fantastic job of it!!!
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Looking very good. Wonderful work on the Syren so far. Chuck
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Victory by mikec - FINISHED - Mamoli
Chuck replied to mikec's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
They were attached the same way you did the other flags. The penants and flags that flew off the masts were in fact attached to un through sheaves in the ball trucks. These are the caps on the tops of each mast. They were belayed in the tops usually to a shroud cleat or to the rail in the top. Hope that helps. Chuck -
That looks great. Yes the top frame pops up a bit. Your planking run looks real good. Proceed as shown in those photos. Chuck
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