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Chuck

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  1. Chuck
    Thanks Pat...yes it was a fun build. I added the front for the locker in the cockpit next. Then I spaced the thwarts according to the plans. The thwarts had scribed grooves down each side as the NMM model showed. The center thwart also has a different shape. Its wider overall and is shaped in the center to support the mast. Around the mast are four belaying pins I turned from boxwood by chocking them in my dremel. The iron work on this thwart was just paper strips. With all of the thwarts in position it was easy to determine the shape and size of the cockpit seats. The seats on each side were added first. Then a thin strip was added between them against teh transom. The locker lid was last to be added. The hinges are just stiff paper card painted black with a piece of wire to simulate the hinge pin.
  2. Chuck
    Looks great so far. I am so glad you are enjoying the kit. Please dont hesitate to ask me any questions. I have all of my prototype pictures and they are larger and in color. If you need to see any I would gladly post here. Chuck
  3. Chuck
    It was time to add some inboard details. The floorboards were first. These were pre-bent so they would lay against the bottom of the frames nicely. Then the two platforms were added. I glued some planks together edge-to-edge and then cut the proper shape using the plans as a guide. I simulated the caulking between the planks with a pencil so they could be seen better. The two platforms were notched along their sides to fit snug against the inboard planking and frames. The risers are the long timbers that stretch from bow to stern on the inboard sides of the hull. The thwarts (seats) will rest on these risers. It was important to make them the same height port and starboard so the seats werent noticeably crooked when I install them I nice detail on the risers was the addition of scribed grooves. This was shown on the NMM model so I included it. They were made by running a sharp awl down the timber with a steel ruler as a guide.
  4. Chuck
    Next up was to add the cap rail. I like to press a wood sheet against the model and trace the shape of the open hull. Then I add an extra 1/32" to account for the overhang outboard. Then i measure and draw another line inside of that one to create a pattern 1/8" wide or there-abouts. I cut it out on my scroll saw and glue it on. It looks awful at this stage. But then I go back and file the edges so they are uniform outboard and inboard. I tried to create a 3./32" wide cap rail or just a hair narrower than that. Finally the friezes were added. These were printed on my ink-jet after scanning my master. It was sparayed with some hairspray as a fixative. Once the friezes were in position I used the bottom edge of the paper as a guide to add a strip of 1/32 x 1/32' molding. Then it was time to paint. The inside was carefully painted as shown in the last few photos above. It was finally starting to look like a boat. Although I like the natural painted planking on the exterior, I thought I would try painting it tallow to match the NMM model. I think it ads some interest so i decided to keep that look although many might prefer to leave planking natural.
  5. Chuck
    Then it was time to file the center of each bulkhead free. I used a file rather than a saw because I found that the saw teeth pulled the wood and it split the top of the frame. Filing it with gentle pressure was easier for me. Then the inside of the hull was faired so the frames were quite thin. I noticed a lot of glue smears on the inside of the planking between the frames. This looked sloppy so I used a curved Xacto blade to scrape it clean. It really worked well. Then a coat of Wipe on Poly was brushed on.
  6. Chuck
    To start the planking, I added two strips on each side along the sheer. This stabilized the hull. It was pretty amazing how sturdy the whole thing got. Then I just continued down the hull with a few more. Then I switched directions and started adding them from the keel upwards. I met somewhere in the middle to finish the hull. The strips were pre-bent to fit the hull both edge-wise and to conform to the bow and stern shape. When it was all done, I added teh stern post. Then it was time to treenail. I treenailed the hull using some Elmers wood filler. To help keep the treenails lined up I used some tape. I ran the tape down the hull being careful to line up one edge on the center of a frame. This was a challenge but I could hold the hull up close to teh light and see through the planking. Then I marked the locations of all of the frames based on the shadows that shown through the planking. I drilled some tiny holes (#78 drill bit) and then filled them. After sanding the hull I applied some wipe on poly
  7. Chuck
    Roger!!!! So great to hear from you . I was actually trying to reach you so I could welcome you back. So happy you are posting some log images of your Syren. Wonderful news. Chuck
  8. Chuck
    Just use the upload feature here. It works a treat and its free. Chuck
  9. Chuck
    The second is no different than the first. I recommend lining off your hull as mentioned in several of the online articles here. Then shaping and spiling your planks to suit. That is truly the only way to do it properly. I would also add that using only the kit supplied planks might be a problem as you may have to cut your shaped planks from wider sheets of wood. Chuck
  10. Chuck
    Thats good news... here are some pics of the original and cast versions I sent them. And one all painted up. For replacements, just call them on teh phone and they will send you a new set for free. Dont use those crappy ones. I have no idea where they got them and they are the wrong size and wont fit. Chuck
  11. Chuck
    ...all books are sold through the Seawatch site from the US. Chuck
  12. Chuck
    You can still buy that book new...its $78 Euros. So used...depending on condition, about half the price. As far as your models....unless we had a list of what they are we couldnt say. Chuck
  13. Chuck
    Looks really good so far. Glad to see another Syren being built. Chuck
  14. Chuck
    Check out the tutorial here in the database for silver soldering. Chuck
  15. Chuck
    To start...the slotted false keel was tapered from the bearding line to the outside edge. This created a simulated rabbet once the two keel pieces were cut to shape and glued into position. Then the 16 bulkhead frames were added. I had these laser cut to save time. They were designed in a way that the center sections are removable. They are held to the frames by small tabs. Once the hull is planks I will file through the tabs and snap out the center sections. Care must be taken to square up the bulkheads with the keel and ensure they are straight so the the proper hull shape can be obtained. You could further stabilize the bulkheads by gluing a temporary batten across the tops of them which will be removed before I start filing the center sections free. But I am not a heavy handed builder so I just started fairing the hull immediately. I use d alight touch while beveling the outside edges of he bulkheads. The transom and bow fillers were added just prior to the start of planking.
  16. Chuck
    This 26 foot long was designed based on a contemporary model in the National Maritime Museum shown below. This longboat was used circa 1750-1760 and was typical of this type of small craft. Plans for this model and MS kit prototype were drafted based on the contemporary drafts from the period. The longboat has been decorated to match the NMM model that inspired it. Even though this model was inspired by another, many other color schemes are possible. There are many more contemporary models that show various decorative themes. Another very good source of information on these small boats is “The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War” by Brian Lavery. This book discusses the many details you sometimes find on these Longboats. Another good reference is "The Boats of Men of War" by W.E. May. Some references to these book will be mentioned throughout this project. This scratch project was the prototype for the Model Shipways kit. An image of the finished model is posted below and can be compared to the contemporary model above. I Also below you will find the PDF instructions for the kit which has more details.
  17. Chuck
    Check here.....the question was asked already... http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/279-size-of-photos/ Please read through all of the topic titles in this forum first before you post the question again. Thanks
  18. Chuck
    Thank you very much...I just added this to the database.
  19. Chuck
    Can you give us the info and links where you had the stencils made??? Chuck
  20. Chuck
    Rusty...Its like seeing an old friend again....I am so glad to see it here. Chuck
  21. Chuck
    Now I only had to add a few small details to finish it up. This was a relatively short project but was a lot of fun to build. I created the oars in two pieces. The handles were shaped on my dremel which I used as a poor man's lathe. Once it was chocked up....I sanded and filed the square strip until it was rounded to spec. But I left the square section untouched to create the final look which was common for the period. The grapnel was a casting from Model Expo. Seeing as this was a prototype for a future kit, I was asked to use one that they already had in stock. It was a nice fitting and was perfectly scaled. That finished off the project. I turned the display pedestals with my Dremel because they were small enough to chock. They arent a perfect mating pair but look OK to my eye. Thanks for looking and as always, comments and questions are appreciated. Chuck
  22. Chuck
    Next up was the rudder. It was straight forward to cut it out of a sheet of boxwood. Then it was tapered so it would narrow aft, and the fore side was shaped and slotted for the pintles and gudgeons. I used styrene once again for the pintles and gudgeons. Its easy to bend although you must do it slowly so it doesnt break. If you go slowly it gives the plastic a chance to bend rather than fracture. It drills remarkably well. The bolts heads were simulated as I mentioned earlier. The tiller was shaped by hand. I patiently filed and carved it from a larger piece of boxwood. Once the rudder was placed in position, I could glue the the decorative transom in place as well. I created it by sculpting the details on a thin sheet of wood with Sculpey. The wood blank was 1/32" thick and cut to the shape of the transom. I added the sculpted details a little at a time and baked it in my toaster oven to cure it. Once it was completed I made a mold and casted a one piece resin copy which is what I used on the model. Chuck
  23. Chuck
    I built the four oarlocks next. They were made with two pieces as seen below. They were glued on top of the cap rail and then painted. To finish off the details on top of the cap rail, I constructed the paneled splash boards by the cockpit. Each splashboard was mad using two layers of 1/32" thick boxwood. One was solid and the outboard one was cut out to create the panels. Once glued together they did a good job of simulating panels. They had to wet down and bent with heat from an old hair dryer. They were bent to conform to the curve of the cap rail. Finally...they were carefully painted as I tried to leave the center panels natural. Chuck
  24. Chuck
    Looking great. Nice job on the plating...that came out particularly well!! Chuck
  25. Chuck
    What a beauty....I am so glad you posted the log again!! Thank you sir Chuck

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