Chuck

Now it was time to start adding the details...I added the cockpit seat back and painted the risers. The risers are the pieces along the inside of the hull and the thwarts (seats) sit on top of them. With the seatback shaped I added the thwarts and the cockpit locker and seats. The thwarts had a beaded line scribed down both sides. this was easy to recreate. I used a sharp awl and ran it down the thwart edge with a steel ruler used as a guide. The risers were painted first because it would have been tough to do so after the thwarts were added. Chuck

Now that the hull is planked, I can remove the bulkhead centers to reveal the framed interior. The centers are held in place with small tabs. Once I file through the tabs along the top of each bulkhead (one on each side), I simply bent the center downward to snap the third tab on the bottom of the bulkhead. Then the bulkhead centers could be removed. This was done very carefully and slowly. I chose not to use a blade or a saw because that tends to pull the center of the bulkhead and split the frames. I find the file works best and I use a light touch when I get close to finishing each tab. The inside was faired to reduce the frames down to a consistent thickness. You can see all of the glue smears between the frames. After the interior frames were faired, I scraped the inside faces of the outboard planking to remove the smears. This took quite a long time was well worth it. I used the blade shown. Its curved profile matched the concave interior hull shape. Then a coat of wipe on poly was applied. It really cleaned up well!! I was quite pleased. Then the floor boards were added along with the cockpit floor. To finish off this step I added the risers. They were carefully pre-bent and spiled to make installation easier. I used the outboard planking as a guide to line it up a consistent distance from the shear line.

Then I added two more at the keel including the garboard strake. This left a space in between on both sides of the hull to fill in. Having these strakes added like this really firmed up the hull. The remainder of planks were added to complete this step. I used a number two pencil to simulate the tarred seams between each plank. When the planking was completed I added the stern post and cut the keel flush to the end of it. I am just using wipe on poly for a finish. Chuck

After the hull was faired, I began planking using 3/16" x 1/32" boxwood planks. Two planks were added along the shear first. The top-most plank was left extra long for now because that is where teh decorative transom will go much later in the project. Various methods were used to bend the planks properly ahead of time so they would conform to teh shape of the hull.

Once the false keel is tapered on both sides I glued the keel and stem into position. I was careful to center the keel along the bottom of the false keel. This created a consistent rabbet for the planking. I Allowed the basswood keel to run beyond the aft end of the false keel. It will be trimmed to the proper length later after the planking and stern post is added. Then the bulkheads were added and the transom. Care was taken to make sure they were all perpendicular to the keel. I guess if I wanted to I could have glued a piece down the tops of the bulkheads to keep them square with the keel. But I think I could be careful while planking and this wont be needed. Two bow fillers were also added to aid in the planking process.

To begin I designed the plans so I could laser cut the keel and bulkheads. Here you can see the bulkhead former being prepared to accept the bulkhead frames. I beveled the stern area and continued it up to the bow to create a rabbet for the hull planking. To make it easier I used a length of black tape along the bottom of the piece which left an equal 1/32" of space to remove for the rabbet creation. This made it easier to keep it straight and consistent. Chuck

Searching for inspiration, I came across some models for 18th century pinnaces. There were large 32 foot pinnaces and many smaller examples to look at. I was particularly fond of a model from the NMM in Greenwich. It was a model of a 21 foot long single banked pinnace from around 1750. It would make an excellent subject for this mini project. It has a paneled interior and some decorative merits. I found an original draft on the NMM website that was almost identical to this small 4 oared pinnace. Things were started to come together nicely. I wasn’t necessarily thrilled with the color scheme shown on this model (pictured above) so I continued looking for some decorative alternatives. The pinnace was used a means of transport for a ship’s captain or other officers. It was not intended to be used to perform any other task. Tasks such as transporting water and other stores were normally left for the larger and heavier built boats like the longboat or launch. It was basically an officer’s private transport. It was designed to be rowed although larger pinnaces could be sailed. It wasn’t very seaworthy and was designed for primarily shore duties. After all, the officers did need a stylish way to get from their anchored ship to the dockyard. As such, the decorations were usually added much later at the officer’s and captain’s own expense. So here is my journey in creating this scratch built model. The frames are basswood and everything else will be Boxwood. You can download this full set of instructions below as a PDF. This was the prototype for the new Model Shipways kit. Click Here to download this practicum Chuck

Two reminders ... The two Completed ship model gallery categories are for photos of completed models only. That's why they are named as such. Second ... you must include the name of your model in the title of your gallery folder! Think about this one, folks -- when people search for a model in the gallery, what search term are they most likely going to use? That's right -- they're going to search for the name of a ship! BTW, you don't have to put your name in the gallery title, since your folder and each of its images is stamped with your username. PLEASE do not post albums of your work in progress! This gallery is meant to display the finished models and not become a second redundant build log. It just wont work!!! Thanks in advance! If you have photos of your models in progress please post them in a build log or other appropriate forum category. Chuck

Looking great rusty...thanks for posting the log once again. I am sure our members will be glad to see it take shape once again. Chuck

Well done Russ. Its great to see the log being started again. Its kind of nice to see your progress as if it was for the first time again. Chuck

I cant wait to see you start making sawdust on this one. Chuck

Looking great. Its wonderful to see the log up again. Thank you for that. Hopefully you will get some company in this forum soon too!! I will try and reach out to some of the folks who also started logs of the longboat. Chuck

Its great to have those pics and the log back. She is a beautiful model. Thanks for sharing it with us again. Chuck

me too!!! Chuck

Great that this log is up and running once again. Good stuff Augie Chuck

Ditto....fine to see this great project back online. Looking forward to more. Chuck

Great stuff.....looking forward to more. Chuck

This area is intended for your build logs of any scratch-built models you are working. Whether they are wood, plastic, card, or RC kits. This is the place where you can document your step-by-step progress. Post images of your work and share your techniques and ideas with your fellow Model Ship World members. How to set up your log? Create a new topic for each individual model you are working on. As you make more progress on it, reply within that topic to post updates on it. Please keep all such posts on topic with regard to the log you are working on and all replies within your one log. Do not create another topic each time you want to make an update. If you are only posting images of your completed model...please do so in the gallery. This forum is for works in progress so we can follow along with your step-by-step explanations. How to Name your build log? We have a "Build Log Naming Convention" to enable the Search Engine to sort them Alphabetically by "Ship's Name" and/or "Builder's Name". We urge you to follow the guidelines below to make this work properly. If you don't, a Moderator will do it for you anyway - so you may as well get it right first time and save us the trouble. This is how your Build Log Title must be set up for Static Wooden Ships : HMS Victory by Fred Bloggs - Scale 1: 75 - 1805 as she appeared after Trafalger - First wooden ship build The first section in RED is MANDATORY and must be done EXACTLY as shown to enable correct Sorting by the Search facility. Note there are SPACES either side of the dash following your Username. Check other Build Logs for an existing one to see whether the "HMS" (or other prefix) is used before the Ship's Name. DO NOT Re-Title the RED section if it has been done by a Moderator. The second section in GREEN is OPTIONAL - you may add any further information you like. There is a much larger Character Limit than previously - 150 characters compared to the old one of about 40. (Note that the colors above are only for this demonstration - you can't Format a Title like you can with other Text) For Plastic, Card, Ships in Bottles and Radio Controlled the following (in PURPLE) will need to be added : USS New Jersey by giblets - PLASTIC - Superdetailed with PE HMAS Sydney by ship ahoy - CARD - 1: 100 HMS Victory by Simmo - BOTTLE - 1/700 scale Vosper PT Boat by whereami - RADIO - A nice model to build Instructions on how to use the Search to find a Build Log list of the Ship you are looking for are in a pinned Topic in "Questions/instructions on how to use and post to this forum/Site Problems or suggestions".