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Chuck

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  1. Nautical Research Guild Summer Issue is in the mail. Become a member and get it delivered to your front door every 3 months. Here are some highlights including the table of contents. 3D Printing and Model Ship Building by Patrick Matthews USS Arizona by Oren Long, Jr The East Indiaman Edwin Fox of 1853 by Ian Poole A French War Brig by Richard Simon Coppering the Fleet and an American Entrepreneur by Louis Arthur Norton Building HMS Isis of 1776: Highlights of a Multi-Year Project by Byron Gore Modelers’ Gallery Shipbuilding Literature in the Netherlands (1671-1838), Part 4 by Ab Hoving SHOP NOTES Making Dowels by William E. Sproul MODELERS’ REVIEWS An 8-inch Shear from Harbor Freight Tools by Steve Wheeler The 3D Elbow Bender from UMM-USA Click here to read one of the articles.... A French War Brig by Richard Simon And here is a look at at one of the models featured in this issue. Click on that photo to enlarge it and see what a great model Byron put together. Its stunning. HMS ISIS by Byron Gore For more info on the Journal and the NRG please visit the website.
  2. 2014 Nautical Research Guild conference St. Louis - October 16, 17 and 18 See the website for Details - CLICK Here A new Conference format is being offered in 2014 to help make this event more affordable. The featured tour will be held on Thursday, and the Technical Sessions, which focus on model making topics, will be held on Friday. These two events have been switched so that those wanting to attend only the two days of classroom discussions can do so without having to incur the cost of an additional room night. At the NRG Charleston Members’ Meeting, a number of attendees suggested that round table sessions should somehow be included in the weekend schedule. In the past, these talks were conducted on Sunday morning when most were leaving the conference. The Friday schedule will have three guest speakers in the morning, and five round table sessions in the afternoon. The General Sessions on Saturday will highlight topics that cover a wide range of nautical interests relating to research and history. The Conference Tour will feature a cruise aboard the Tom Sawyer, a 50-year old riverboat. The journey will take you from downtown St. Louis to Kimmswick, Missouri, a quant riverside town known for its historic homes, shopping, and antiques. The narrated cruise will feature onboard bingo, card games, and riverstyle music. Upon disembarking from the “Sawyer,” lunch will be served at the Blue Owl Restaurant and Bakery. There will also be ample time to shop and explore the town on foot. A motor coach will be provided for transportation back to downtown St. Louis. While visiting Kimmswick, guests must anticipate uneven walking terrain such as stairs and graveled pathways. With that in mind, we cannot recommend this trip for those needing the assistance of a wheelchair, walker, or those with significant physical/heart conditions or limitations. Friday Technical Sessions: Pat Mathews – 3D Printing Greg Grieco – Excavation of the Riverboat Heroine David Antscherl – Building the Fireship Comet Friday Round Table Discussions: David Antscherl – Frieze Painting Steve Wheeler - Electroplating Chuck Passaro – Ropewalk Demo Greg Herbert – Making Scale Moldings John Vojtech – Unique Modeling Tools. Saturday General Sessions: Jack Custer – Using images to take off the lines of steamboats Dan Pariser – Comparing French & English ship building practices Gary Lucy – Researching models and settings for paintings Institute of Nautical Archeology – Speaker & subject to be determined Banquet Guest Speaker Christopher Gordon, President St. Louis Historical Museum Topic: St Louis and The Lewis and Clark Expedition You can download the registration form from the NRG website page here.
  3. Something lik e that is better cut from a wide piece to the proper shape. Chuck
  4. They are for the jig....They are a little big though
  5. Yupp...thats the stuff. But you can use any color that you like and any brand. I like what you used. I think it looks great. Chuck
  6. If you line out the hull with tick marks for the planking, you can determine the width of each strake at each bulkhead. What I like to do but couldnt in the kit instructions, (pre milled strips and all) would be to place the first sheer strake into position. Then line off the hull from the bottom of the shear strake to the keel NOT INCLUDING THE GARBOARD. After you line off the hull it will reveal the shape of the garboard....this can be cut and positioned early so that you will have a consistent remaining space to plank. Planking the garboard early allows you the opportunity to see the negative unplanked space remaining and see how that space runs bow to stern. If you see that negative space getting too wide or too narrow in places...it probably means your garboard is shaped incorrectly. By lining off the hull you can also avoid any guesswork. See Bob's build log. I would do it exactly the same way...in fact this is exactly how I planked the hull except I do add the shear strake first. It strengthens the hull and allows me to create the shear curve I want before lining off the rest of the hull. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-ms-148-tri-club/page-2 Chuck
  7. You can carefully scrape it away with various sharp razors or hobby blades. Just dont use the points. Use the edge of the blade. Light passes with the blade at an angle. The different shaped blades help you get in all of the crannies.
  8. Splendid......very well done. I love the quality of your figure. Chuck
  9. I know how it feels to hit the shop after a long absence. Well done and try to sneak a few more sessions soon. Its good for the soul!!!
  10. Been a while since I checked in on your Essex. Its looking A-Ok Bob. Framing those decks is a lot of fun... I am looking at those images though and have a question, did you give the quarter deck beams and forecastle deck beams a camber? I remember when I started building her many moons ago..The decks had quite a bit of camber from what I remembered, its hard to tell from the photos but they look flat or is it just an optical illusion? With no camber the fittings along the center of the gun deck might look very tall. I am wondering if the absence of camber is what I am seeing. Sam sure did add a lot of nice detail to those deck fittings. At that scale is great to see a kit show them all. They look great Bob, you are almost done for crying out loud....you work quick. Chuck
  11. Nope....no good.....your piece is not oriented properly with the grain. That is why they break...rotate so the part of the stem that sticks up and always breaks is going along with the grain....rather than across it. This is super important and you should always keep teh grain direction in mind when posiitioning your templates.
  12. 1 3/8" I believe but I will have to double check. I dont have my model here and I know I forgot to add that to the plans.....between 5 and 6 feet is OK. Chuck
  13. You dont have a twist....You just have to shift those port or starboard to line them up. Thats why I made them tight. I used titebond because it has a lot of open time. Then I tapped/pushed one side or the other to align each bulkhead one at a time. I looked at them from the angles you posted as well as port and starboard. Tweaking the positions until they were aligned. I wouldnt glue in any spacers until all of the bulkheads are in position and dried. That is probably helping the mis alignment issue. No pins or other aparatus are needed. Just start mid ship and work your way towards the stern...then flip around and finish it towards the bow. Aligning each as you go. Wait for the previous one to cure pretty good before you do the next one. Chuck
  14. Congratulations....well deserved. I just thought I was going crazy while looking at the mayflower......good to get that clarified. Chuck
  15. Dave which kit is that? Should I move it to the kit build area? I see many instances where it doesnt follow my plans as far as I can see. I also see laser cut parts in there. Did you start with a kit by one of the European makers? Chuck
  16. Its what it says on the box and plans... 5./32" scale.
  17. Just jump in!!!!! The water is just fine. If you break something, Expo will replace it. Theres no substitute for getting a feel for it without over thinking it. Thinking about it too much leads to ship model paralysis. Chuck
  18. Bulkhead thinning...yes I know it is awful....but take your time. Its really important to the overall look of the model. Beautiful progress Augie!!! Chuck
  19. Probably overkill....but yes you need to do teh math and increase the thickness by 33.3% Chuck
  20. Its just another way....There are many techniques out there and you must find the one you are most comfortable with. Those that say you should never do this or that.....well, they are just partial to one method over another. You could spile and cut the shape or try something else. As long as the run of the strakes are proper....it doesnt matter. The proof is in the pudding so to speak.
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