Chuck

For the carving. Just remove and refit the lower molding. It was designed to actually sit on the planking line so you will have plenty of room for those carvings. Just where the acanthus leaf carvings are as I can see a bit of an upward run which when evened out will allow your carvings to fit perfectly. Use the planking seam as your guide.

Making the Chain Pumps... As mentioned all of the wood parts are laser cut from boxwood. You will get all the parts for the port side on one sheet and the starboard on another. So just build one at a time. The first part that needs our attention is the 7/32" thick core. Step one- Sand the laser char from all of the edges. Take your time and keep the edges straight. Dont bother sanding the front or back face as these will be covered up. They will remain nice and flat if you dont touch them. In addition....dont clean the char from the bottom of the piece. Keep that flat as well. But all of the edges including those two pump tubes at the bottom should be clean of char. You can see one core that has not been cleaned of char yet. Note the arrow...this will be important. REALLY IMPORTANT: For this mini kit you will see me call only for certain areas to be sanded free of laser char. This is important for many reasons. It has to do with the build sequence and keeping the parts properly sized and shaped. Keep that in mind when you read through this and dont jump ahead and clean off all the char on every piece. I will let you know when you can do so. The results will be much better. STEP 2 - Glue the bottom base of the pump into position. Note that the extended, curved side is on the end of the pump where the arrow points. Also note that I have NOT cleaned the char off of any of the edges yet. That will come later. But if you want...you can sand the top surface clean before gluing it in position. STEP 3 ...Glue the larger side panels onto the core. Sit the bottom edge of these side pieces right down on the base. Dont sand the char from the edges yet. Make sure the arrows are pointing in the right direction. They follow the arrow on the core. The important thing with this step is to line up the center hole for the crank shaft. That is crucial. Because these layers are so thin they will bend and warp with titebond. I used titebond so I can slide these pieces into position. One side layer at a time. Use clamps to prevent the layer warping....trust me it will lift up if you dont clamp it. It is slightly over-sized all around except the bottom edge. Just line up that hole!! After both first layers are in position you can sand the char from certain edges. Allow me to explain. The photo below shows the sides sanded FLUSH with the core and clean from char. But leave the rounded edges of the top and dont sand that at all. But the little edges on either side should be sanded flush with the top of the core. Note the back edge of the floor or base is now sanded as well as the back side is all flush with the core. In that same photo you can see the next layer added to the back face of the pump. This is there to show you why you must sand the ends flush with that first layer in position. This next outer layer wont be flush and you will never get clean and neat otherwise. The same is true for the other side....Note how the first layer you put on is sanded flush with the edge of the core. AND the top is also sanded flush but the rounded section is left alone. Dont remove the char on that. You want the rounded hood to be perfectly shaped. Leave the char on it. This is important again because the next layer will extend forward. You can see it also added in the photo below. You can also see that the floor or base is still not cleaned of char except for that one side which is all flush with the core. STEP 4... That next layer you saw in the previous photos can now be glued on the model. But you should absolutely clean the char from edges of these before you do so. Clean the edges before gluing. But as you can see....only clean the side edges and the top edge. But leave the clamp in the center with the shaft hole alone. Dont bother cleaning the char from the edges. It is fragile and leaving it as is will look great. Dont sand the bottom edge either because then the hole wont line up with the other layers. It will sit too low. You can see how the back end of the pump is all flush....but this last layer will extend forward on the other side. Start with the layer showing the cut-out for the plug first. That should help you get alignment correct. You can see the other sides layer ready for gluing.....all the edges you need to clean are sanded nicely. STEP 5...I think... As the photo above shows....now you can sand the edges of the base all around to clean up the char. The front and back edges are sanded flush....nice and clean. The extended side of the floor is also finally sanded clean. Its starting to look like a chain pump now. Now the fun parts...just a few little details to add. STEP 6... In this step you will be adding the two legs. The fancy legs are cleaned of char and glued to the bottom side of the base. Just remember to put it on the correct side. One side is longer because of the mast partners. The fancy legs go on the side shown. Then do the other side which is sanded flush all around. You can also glue the drain plug into position. I left the char in place as it looks good that way. It will stand proud of the chain pump box. Then there are two long skinny pieces that are glued on the inside where the outside layers extend beyond the core. You can see them on the chain pump plans. Just clean them up and glue them on. Step 7...in that same photo you can see that the round hood for the chain pump has many thin boards that need to be glued in position. This isnt difficult but they are small pieces. You should bevel the edges slightly so they fit tightly. If you dont bevel the edges the seams between each plank will be too wide. I just lightly sanded a bevel by eye. No need to measure and obsess about the angles. Now if you are afraid the math wont work out and when you get to the other side you will be left with a space....fear not. I also included two wider planks just for this occasion. When you get close to planking the whole top of the hood....test a few dry fit planks to see how much space needs to be filled. I did this when I had four remaining planks to add. Turns out I only needed to adjust and use one wider plank. You cant even notice it. Sand the sides of the hood flush so its nice and neat when they are all added. They are initially just a hair longer than needed. To finish up the chain pumps....add a tiny length of 28 gauge black wire for the drain plug handle. The add the tongue. Thats the long metal piece on the front end of the pump. I used a small length of 1/32" x 1/64" brass strip. Just bend the end and round them off. I blackened it and glued it in position. Apply a coat of Wipe on Poly to bring out the nail patterns and you are good to go!!!!

You have probably seen this Contemp model. But anyway...the Queen is prob a replacement because the original was lost.

Thanks I am going to add the handle for the plug and the tongue. The tongue is the iron flat strap thing on the plan that sticks up on the one side. I imagine the next big piece will be the stove....that is in chapter 8.

Chapter seven........ PDF plan for beams and knees. Updated from the large sheets you printed for historical accuracy. Plan for the chain pumps... beams and knees.pdf chainpumps.pdf

Perfect fit. She will look great when painted. I have seen that one on Shapeways and almost bought it too.

Thanks Greg…I am thinking about it. Just have to figure out how best to do it. May e some laser board. I think brass would be too thick.

Getting back to the Winnie....I have been designing and tweaking the mini-kit for the chain pumps. I think I have it where I want it now. This mini-kit is all boxwood. Every part of the this pump is laser cut. The nail details are laser etched. These were a challenge because they are the smallest nails I have simulated with the laser. It took plenty of attempts before I got it right. This is the Starboard side chain pump. When I make the other I will take pictures at every step. But I thought I would share my efforts. This is actually the very first time I have built one of these as no models I have ever made showed them. So it was a treat. Greg Herbert's chain pumps were the inspiration for these. There are still some details that could be added if you wanted to....I think you will like making these. I still have to add the handle for the plug. Compare the detail with any other chain pump made for a kit. I really tried hard to make it look as detailed as any scratch effort but with everything laser cut. I will also be making these in 3/16" scale and offering them as stand alone mini-kits in both scales. But these will come as part of chapter 7 so no need to buy the mini-kit when you see it posted.. Chuck

To have one master made would certainly be in the $300 - $350 range.

I just started some discussions to get one custom figure made of the capt. We shall see how it goes.

Very nice…looking forward to seeing that.

Thanks….I miss your winnie updates. You gonna start up on her again soon.

I dont know...he was commander of the squadron. I am not sure if I will have any figures actually. It costs big bucks to get them made and then cast. It would be nice however. Chuck

I might just take you up on that Greg but I will contact you once I get closer to completion. This is the fella I would need...Capt. Nathaniel Bateman

I couldnt find any. I basically just browsed shapeways for 1:48 figures. I bought a few that were offered in the best material. I am no expert on those. I have not found any English naval 1:48 figures of good quality. Hence the mini me.

The building inspector!!! You know how it goes..I have to slip him a C-note to overlook my shotty workmanship.😁

The gallows are now completed....they are basically the same as the main jeer bitts. The uprights are a little shorter to accommodate the top of the gallows which has that shape you are all familiar with. The height of the gallows is equal to the top of the breast beam. It is also only temporarily in position. I will be starting to build the chain pumps next which will allow me the ability to tweak all of their positions to align the crank handles and permanently install them. You can see I removed that second beam as it will only make tweaking all their positions trickier. That was just resting on the deck clamp as well. Any questions.

Looks great but keep in mind those bolts on your mast partners are way too large. You will probably have a hard time fitting you mast coats. If there is any way you can remove them and go much much much smaller….you will save yourself much trouble later. Keep those bolts small.

Thanks guys. This is where you will start to notice a difference between the contemporary model. The bitts and gallows for example are very different. This is done to accommodate the chain pumps. They will both have their uprights farther apart in order to place the crank handles for the chain pumps. The orientation for the jeer bitts is also changed to make more room for the pumps. It will really start looking interesting once I finish the gallows and chain pumps.

Moving right along.....or forward so to speak You saw me build the capstan and I am using the red one....all I had to do was really make the two pawls. I just used a strip of 3/64 x 3/64 boxwood. I cut them to length.....shaped them as shown. The arse end being rounded off. I drilled a hole through that end so I could insert some black fishing line to simulate the bolt or pin on the pawl. Painted them black with some weathering powder and glued them on. Notice how I sanded the back of each pawl thinner so the part that engages the capstan is thicker. Dont mind all the dust!!! Then I continued forward adding beams ....lodging knees and hanging knees... UNTIL I reached the area you see below. The beam is permanently installed. But the two columns are not. These are just temporarily positioned. Do not glue these two columns in yet. Note how they were morticed into the coaming. These two columns will need to be lined up perfectly with the Main jeer bits......and gallows. The crank handle for the chain pumps will run through all of these elements and the need to be positioned only after the chain pumps are made. That will come soon. So just position them like this without glue. In fact....the next two (the last two) deck beams wont be added permanently yet either. They will not be glued into position until after we have the chain pumps all finished and those crank handles installed. But you will be testing with them while you build those elements... For example....time to make the Main jeer bitts. These actually sit directly under the forward most deck beam or breast beam. They are laser cut and just like the columns, the uprights are etched on both sides for reference. These are boxwood as well. You will notice some heavy char on the sides of these because they are very thick at 3/16" thick. Rather than just sand or file off the char from the sides of these, I scraped the char off first. I used a number 11 blade. That should remove most of it so whatever remains can be cleanly and easily sanded away. Boxwood in this thickness requires much more laser power to cut through and thus more charring. Notice how the front and back of the uprights are flat without any dimension. You have etched reference lines but you must still use some blades, chisels, files or whatever you are comfortable with....to mimic the profile laser cut on both sides. These take some time to shape and do properly but they arent difficult. As you can see they clean up beautifully and make some really nice jeer bits. The two sheaves are all laser cut for you on both sides.....how nice is that??? You could round off the sheaves if you like for extra credit. The jeer bitts were painted red and positioned beneath the Breast beam or that first qdeck beam. Nothing is glued in yet....these are just tests in preparation for completing the chain pumps. It rests right against the coaming behind it. The cross beam is on the aft side. But I will mention.... This is important, the Breast beam is actually wider than all of the other deck beams. Its 3/16" wide. In addition, you must scrape a decorative molding and glue it the fore side of this beam. The molding was scraped from a 3/32" x 1/32" boxwood strip. Deck planking and margin planks will over hang this breast beam and look very nice. I dont know if you can see or make out the molding on the beam. But the jeer bitts are tested under it. It is starting to look good now that more fittings are being added. Next up the gallows which is almost the same as the jeer bitts but has a fancy top. It is positioned just forward of the main mast. Thats next!!! A little farther away to see more of the hull at this stage....remember those two remaining deck beams are NOT glued in yet...... And farther away still as the fittings continue to be added...

That looks pretty darn good to me. Well done...

Looks fantastic…really nice. If anything I hope this gives you some confidence to carve more stuff in the future. I really enjoyed it although it does take a lot of time and cant be rushed. But it makes a world of difference on the model.

Ken thats much better and not to tight at all. It looks great. If it untwists a bit when you release it that is fine. But remember only cut one ebe free and let it untwist until it stops. Then it wont kink up. You have to hold it while it untwists until the rope is in balance from the opposing tensions you put on it. that rope looks perfect.

Nice work and progress on the model. Its really coming together.

Really nice Rusty. You are getting to all the fun stuff now.