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Remcohe

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Everything posted by Remcohe

  1. Remcohe
    Take a breath folks. I finished applying the finish.... The good, it turned out nice dark brown (not as black as on the pictures) and the structure of the wood is still a bit visible. The joints of the planks appear slightly visible so it does not look like one big plank. The bad, I made 400 treenails disappear, only when the light hits at a certain angle they are barely visible and the stain is a bit blotchy, applying more coats made it better but also made the treenails less visible. Only one run out at a spot I didn't want, under the strern I also applied the finish (tung oil) it's still drying hence the glossy look at the moment. That will disappear once dry and a quick while with a Scotch pad. Then I can add bolts at the plank ends. Remco
  2. Remcohe
    Really nice Ed. And thanks for the occasional hand in the pictures, it keeps reminding me how small everything actually is, it's easy to think you're working on a bigger scale but you're not. Remco
  3. Remcohe
    Thanks guys! Daniel, the whale is 3 strakes of planks. The row butting to the stained whale will not be glued on the edge. Mike, the wax and oil have pro's and cons, build up of wax can easily be removed build up of oil not and will give a glossy finish. But oil encapsulates the remains of sanding dust which otherwise stand out like white traces in the grain of the wood and joints. I still ran a bit more to oil because of the latter. Whipe on poly (semi gloss) gives a gloss finish (of course) and I really done like that on models. You could also use sanding sealer as a finish, dead flat but a bit harder to apply on large area's. It's also a matter of taste. All parts are treated with finish like the bed and the closet, and always as a last step as glue does not stick very well to surfaces with a finis applied. So the whale continues. I hope the treenails will stand out enough after the wood is stained. Being end grain it was darker on the test pieces, but the treenails will be hard to see. Same will be for the joints between the planks. Tomorrow I'll apply the stain, I'm a bit scared about this step and hope there will be no stain flowing to the parts thad need no stain. I scored the wood with a scalpel where the whale touches the frames. Here the treenails are sanded flush with the whale and almost invisible Remco
  4. Remcohe
    Great what a tiny boat. I really appreciate the way you're approaching this miniature boats. Remco
  5. Remcohe
    Stop Piet, you're having too much fun now No honestly, it's looking great! Remco
  6. Remcohe
    You carvings are really great. If you look for more once done, my Kingfisher has a whole lot of it you can do for me Remco
  7. Remcohe
    Alan, I'll plank her on one side from the whole up. Piet, yes it's fun to make your own tools, but there is a risk of wanting more tools, my mini late isn't really up to the task to use as a mill for bigger parts. shallow cuts and a lot of patience was needed and even then it chattered. Please Santa can I have a bigger mill??? Mark, yes it works well up until now. Better keep the stain well away from any parts I don't want to stain. Here's a discarded plank with the edge already stained next to a real ebony plank Remco
  8. Remcohe
    A little progress on the whales, but first tool time. I should have bought the rip taper jig from Jim when I ordered my table saw. Unsure why I didn't at the time. I made my own version. A few brass bars, aluminum plate & bolts assembled in the right way makes a very useful tool. The whales are made from pear tinted with Fieblings (mahogany and black 6:1) The edges are pre painted as if fear for the paint running into places it shouldn't the sides will first be sanded flush before I can paint it. All planks are pre bend using a steam iron and the admiral's hair dryer All looks a bit messy at this point Remco
  9. Remcohe
    Wow Piet what a great display of miniature hardware. When bending the tube for the thimble, did you insert a rod into the tube to prevent it from 'collapsing'? Or did you bend it around a small shave... Remco
  10. Remcohe
    I'd shape it off the model too. Remco Re. CA, don't
  11. Remcohe
    "Please Sir can I have some more pulley's" [O. Twist]
  12. Remcohe
    Very good advise Druxey, I also make a habit of forming the planks as best as possible before gluing, but I still use clamps to let the glue set properly. I always try to avoid any stress in the planks. Although sometimes when I struggle with a difficult shaped/formed plank its hard to resist the urge to pick up a bottle of CA and a big clamp to get the job done but I never surender to that! Remco
  13. Remcohe
    I used small commercial clamps, but then again I had more space between the timbers. Maybe a small homemade clamp could work? Remco
  14. Remcohe
    Sorry Grant I have been away from your log wayyyy to long. She's looking spectacular! And I see your collection of fine tools has grown too Remco
  15. Remcohe
    Upside down she looks equally stunning, lovely lines Remco
  16. Remcohe
    The pulley is looking very realistic. Thank you for sharing how you assembled the little marvel, sometimes a picture does not tell the whole story what tricks you need to employ to get the job done. Remco
  17. Remcohe
    Mike, Thank you for your intrest and no I don't mind all the questions The basic tools I use are (very) sharp chisels and surgical blades, files and sometimes a plane. All finishing is done with quality sandpaper and the trick is to always glue the sandpaper to a hard surface. I incorporated my own version of a 'true sander' in a small work surface that I can easily slide out of the way (together with all the tools scattered around it) so I can pull the hull close by to work on the hull. A glass plate with different grades of paper to flatten or thin down parts and small sanding sticks, I make different ones for different purposes like the ones to sand the deck beams. The joints for the deck beams are marked and cut with a chisel, usually on the bench and never in situ except when I did http://modelshipworl...1385926869.jpeg but that was just me being dumb. For finish I used tungoil until, but now I'm switching to microcrystalline wax as it's less glossy. I prefer a flat finish so it's hard to see in the pictures where the finish is applied and where not. Remco
  18. Remcohe
    Congratulations Rusty, a really beautiful model. Remco
  19. Remcohe
    Very nice planking job Sir. Do you use small pieces of carton to prevent the nails marring the wood when holding the planks down (picture Amarante646.jpg)? Remco
  20. Remcohe
    Thanks for the likes and compliments. Maury, Michael, the brass was hard bent off the model. Although 0.2 mm bends quite easily, making 90 degree bends was done on my hold and fold. the other shaping was done with round nosed pliers. Final adjustments were done on the model. Meanwhile the lower counter is planked but not yet faired. Remco
  21. Remcohe
    Thanks all. Yes Mark the rabbet was cut using chisels, as it curves in two directions no way I could do it on a mill. The parts that make up the helmport are an interesting exercise in testfitting to get them right The straps to the counter timbers were cut from 0.2 mm brass sheet and bend to shape, 0.4 mm brass bolts (actually a bit oversized) were used to glue the strips down Remco
  22. Remcohe
    Congratulations Albert a milestone and so beautifully executed. Naiad is on my wishlist but the number of frames does make me doubt. Remco
  23. Remcohe
    It turned out really great Piet, it's a model on it's own and an eye-catcher. Remco
  24. Remcohe
    Be sure to add plenty drawers, big ones for drawings, shallow ones for tools. If space isn't an issue make more that you think you'll need and you'll probably end up with just enough And check the thread with all the members's workshops, you catch some ideas there too. Remco
  25. Remcohe
    The seat looks great Piet! Remco

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