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CDW

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Everything posted by CDW

  1. Ha - there is a mess all around it. If I had a wide angle lens, you could see it. As far as I know, there is no other alternative to the wood deck that came with the Pontos set except to leave it stock and paint it. But my copy of the Pontos deck is rather poor. Have you ever had a balsa model with die cut parts where the parts are not cut through the sheet so you have to either sand one side until the parts are free or re-score everything with an X-Acto knife to free the parts. That's the way this deck is made. The cut outs are not completely cut through and it requires each and every one to be cut free with a blade. What a pain. And then, there are several variations of the Essex class of CV under different names. Apparently, my deck is maybe cut for another version and not the Essex because a couple of key spots like the side elevator are not cut correctly. I'll make the best of it but if anyone else decides to give this build a go, be aware of the wood deck issue. The aft elevator is cut in a completely different place as the stock kit elevator. I just glued my elevator in place and let the deck fall where it may as there would be no satisfactory way to otherwise correct that in my view. In the end, I am probably the only one who even knows unless one is a real micro detail expert. It won't be a glaring error that will be easily noticed.
  2. Wow, been a long time since I had something like that but remember well how bad it was. And I was in my 30's then. Glad you're feeling better and hope you make a full recovery soon.
  3. You have my sincere condolences, Mark. Hope you get things up and running with the least impact possible on the good ship Visa.
  4. Did you notice in the "what did you receive" topic that some fellow modelers are acquiring those stereo microscopes? That may be just the ticket for these very small PE parts. Normal magnifying lenses just are not quite powerful enough sometimes. Like you, I have so far procrastinated on building all the 20mm single guns for my project. A certain amount of dread in building so many and so small, tedious.
  5. What a thing of beauty this ship. If I could build a model ship like this....I would. But for now, am content just to watch modelers as skilled as you just to learn how. Great work, Mark.
  6. Oh, and by the way, most of the parts seen attached to the hull are not actually glued on at this point. I just have them sitting in place.
  7. As I am working on my model, I like to set things in place to see what it looks like and help keep me motivated to finish. Marching onward, trying to get the last few things attached to the hull before painting it. After it is painted, there are tons of detail that goes into recreating the catwalks that outline the perimeter of the deck, the wooden decking, a myriad of antennae and pieces that get attached to the deck (photo etch). I will have to paint all these parts before attaching them so as not to ruin the wooden deck.
  8. But hey, if you take your model/s to a contest, you can be sure some judge/s will be there with a flashlight looking inside every possible opening to see whether you finished everything inside or not. Been there and done that many times in the past.
  9. I noticed the same thing while I was building my DeAgostini Victory hull. The planks were of very inconsistent quality between the various shipments, sometimes good and sometimes very poor.
  10. That wheel is a huge favor for the finished look of your model. Great job, Jesse!
  11. Carl For CA, I use this one. It is a medium viscosity glue. I particularly like the cap seal, as it doesn't become clogged so often as many CA glues tend to do. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-20-g-Super-Glue-78056/100661959 This is Gator Grip acrylic glue: http://www.gatorsmask.com/gatorglueorder1.html (I edited the link for Gorilla Glue, blue cap)
  12. Thanks for your kind comments OC. I use both CA as well as an acrylic glue called Gator Grip, depending on the particular application at hand. Gator Grip is similar to PVA in its appearance, but it dries to a much thinner, clearer, finish. If I am gluing things that can benefit by the higher strength that CA provides and it will only require a small drop or two to do the job, CA is likely my choice. But, if I need to apply more than just a small drop, or perhaps if the part must be slid into place, I will likely prefer Gator Grip. A good "for instance" is where the photo etch walkways wrap around the bridge. Because those are slid into place and come in contact with the (almost) entire side/s of the bridge, I prefer Gator Grip because it dries thin, very clear, and does not mar the finish of the plastic. After the acrylic glue is applied, I can take a wetted paint brush and use to remove any excess glue, leaving a virtually "clean" finish where the photo etch part attaches to the plastic. In addition, if I glue photo etch doors or portholes to the model, I will also use acrylic glue for the same reasons given above. Attaching the masts to the bridge, I use CA for it's strong hold and because only a small drop is required on each leg.
  13. Okay, the control tower is maybe 90% done. Will add some ladders after the assembly is attached to the deck. Also, need to build and add the 20mm AA guns as well as some search lights. The search lights I ordered from Northstar and am waiting for them to arrive. The kit provided lights are pretty lame, devoid of detail. Make sure not to sneeze or break wind while you're viewing these pictures. The shock wave is very likely to knock off some of these small parts.
  14. Hi Pierre I just switch from one type of modeling to the other. I'll build static models for a few years, then switch back to flying models. Besides, I have too many great model aircraft to build and finish just to quit. Several Proctor models including a Jenny. The 1/5 scale Pica Waco, a 1/5 scale Arizona Models DH-1, a 1/5 scale P-51 Mustang, and many others.
  15. Thanks guys, for the likes and the kind comments. Still to be added are ladders, more radar and towers, gun control directors, three HF antennae, a half dozen or more 20mm guns, and various bits and pieces. I added another 25% of it since those last photos and am going to try and finish it today and tomorrow. Soon, I am going to paint the hull and try to figure out the wooden deck. There are a lot of photo etch pieces that go on the deck but very little information on the "plans". As good as this Pontos set is, the instructions are just horrible. Parts mis-numbered, details left out, etc. A lot of wasted time trying to figure out how everything is supposed to go together. In the long run, the set is worth it regardless of the effort required overcoming their shoddy plans.
  16. Maybe about half way finished with the control tower. It's a little slow going due to the small, tedious parts and because the holiday season brings on many other tasks unrelated to modeling.
  17. To err on the safe side, the only way I know to test is to spray the clear over a scrap painted with the same paint that's on your hull. Otherwise, you risk some unwanted reaction on your finished model. It's my guess that a spray acrylic would be safe sprayed over enamel. But I could be wrong. How long has the enamel been on the model? Enamel can take a very long time to thoroughly dry.
  18. You will not regret going with a H&S airbrush. They are ahead of their competition in terms of ease of cleaning and high quality.
  19. That seems like a good plan, Mike. You probably know, but Hobbywing has a reputation for manufacturing some of the best ESC's in the industry. You made a great choice there IMHO. And i don't have any doubts that a brushless motor runs hotter than a brushed motor based on my own experience with them.
  20. Are the brushed motors water cooled? I wonder how well ESC's hold up in an enclosed environment with the heat and all? Your's looks like it has a nice heat sink built on.
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