Ian_Grant
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So interesting to see this never-seen-before version taking shape! Just out of curiosity Daniel: how many Heller Victory kit hulls do you have? 😃 -
Glad to see you're still at it. Three weeks is not a long time compared to my own sporadic updates. 😆
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- Sophie
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Hi Bill; I see what you mean in close-up, but realistically no one will ever notice naked eye especially when deadeyes and topmast shrouds, and jeer strops, and the sling are installed in front of them on the completed model. Looks great my friend! My only comment is that the clinches of the shroud pairs should be staggered back as they rise, ie not all be on top of each other. See Plan 8.
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https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/track-marine-archaeologists-searching-icy-antarctic-seas-ernest-shackletons-endurance-180979581/?utm_source=smithsoniandaily&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=20220225-daily-responsive&spMailingID=46458966&spUserID=OTY4MjUzNzkyMTQ3S0&spJobID=2182891929&spReportId=MjE4Mjg5MTkyOQS2
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Andrew also talked about seeing one of their model makers open the trunk of his car, and it was stuffed with plastic model battleships etc, as a source for gun turrets for model spaceships 😄. Another aside - While living down there, he played goalie on a hockey team of Canadian expats. One day Lucas had some NHL goalie come in to save shots while wearing one of those suits with all the sensors for position on them, however they work. Anyway Andrew later got a call from an admin, asking "You play hockey, don't you; do you know a goalie?". Apparently an entire pack of NHL-level goalie sticks was received just for that goalie's session in the suit and he left them all behind. "Do you want them?". Andrew said he was turning cartwheels across the parking lot 😃. Sorry Chris for all the distractions. Back to your card model, which is looking great!
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To quote Winston Churchill, more or less, "This is not the end, or even the beginning of the end, but merely the end of the beginning".
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Kevin, yes Maurice is here (Blue Ensign). Check out his Queen Anne Royal Barge build, and now his Sphinx.
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Wow, nice looking weather! We had freezing rain two nights ago, to the extent that yesterday kids were skating laps around our Crescent on the smooth ice! 😄😄 Great to see, first time ever, I nearly pulled on my skates and joined them. Not great for driving however. Sadly though 🙄, this morning the city truck finally came by spraying salt/sand on the road. Bill, rest assured I would never chastise you for not forming a true splice in 0.85mm thread! I decided on my Preussen to omit even the serving at the shroud centres, albeit it's less visible at 1/150 scale.
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Work proceeding very slowly. Rigged the bowsprit guys and stitched the netting to them, but haven't trimmed the netting yet. Pre-rigged the lower sheets and tack ends to winches or bitts. Anyone building Preussen would be wise to attach these before adding masts and walkways. The winches are tucked beneath the pin rails and were painful to reach. Also had to drill four missing sheave holes in the hull. Example tack leading from sheave to bitts and coiled on deck. Sheet leading from sheave to winch and coiled on deck. The winch drum end is that little green thing to the right of the first two "eyescrews". Speaking of the drums, they taper towards their ends and I remember thinking that would be a problem. It was, as the threads persist in slipping off the end when one attempts to wind them onto the drum. Future builders - recommend attaching a slightly larger disc to their ends to retain threads. Now thinking about belaying brace trim lines, which need triple sister blocks that Heller does not mention. Made them from sets of three 15/0 seed beads glued to a short strip of evergreen. That's one poking up just to the right of the eyescrews. Not a near replica of reality but good enough. Now trying to decide what to do to associated belaying pins for these brace ends to attach (existing pins are mere bumps). Also decided to add the shrouds to a masthead just for something different to do. In the interest of not taking years on this build like on Victory I did not serve the centres or clinch them round the masthead. I simply tied each pair in a clove hitch around the masthead. Good enough at this scale, or as Victor J says "close enough for jazz".
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It was always my brother's dream from elementary school to work on Star Wars movies. He and his friend in grade six made a stop-action super-8 star wars film, including a bar fight scene where in the blink of an eye everyone fell to the floor 😃. After graduating as a computer animator, he did indeed join Lucas in time to work on the later three movies (chronologically the first three). His claim to fame is that he was lead animator for Jar-Jar Binks, the least popular star wars character ever 😆. As he says, "I didn't write the dialogue, I just had to deal with animating his flowing mane as he ran around corners!". Personally I found the newer movies so terrible I didn't even watch the third......don't tell Andrew...... After this he worked on several other movies, such as Hulk & Pearl Harbour. He emailed me one time to say that he had seen the model battleships for Pearl Harbour leaving their model shop on flat-bed trucks for the studio, and if only I could have been there....😒.
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Bill, You've been pretty quiet lately! Still busy I see. Here is an easy way to fake the swifter shrouds using a single thread for both. The gaps represent the thread passing underneath itself. A little judicious wiggling and tugging and you can get the two to be diametrically opposed, or any any relative position you like. I got this originally from Blue Ensign, on the OPCVMW ("Old Pete Coleman Victory Modelling Website").
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Rob, I really like your sheet blocks. Tried to make some for my 1/150 Preussen but gave up. I'm just using a pair of copper eyes instead. Not accurate but my audience will not know better 😁.
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Curious as to what material you are using for your sails............🤔
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Silverman, I had never heard of that before, but you are right. I found this video about it.
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Came across this interesting article on servos and allowable torque. I expect the "stall torque" which is all that hobby servo manufacturers seem to specify is the max "intermittent" torque at zero speed. Now wondering if I can pry any info from servo vendors about their "continuous" torque curves, or at the least a derating factor. Hoping I can get through to some sort of applications engineer or even better a designer. https://www.motioncontroltips.com/servo-motor-torque-curve/
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oh yeah, amazon is a rats nest. I've often seen wild ranges when looking for niche books eg ship rigging; how about $15 to over $700 for a particular used book? Vendors are free to ask whatever they like. Caveat emptor.
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In general I paint a coat of a tan colour, then dry-brush a darker colour. For example, Humbrol #103, dry-brush #26, finish with #135 satin varnish. Here is an example on a topmast. Never tried it on metal though.
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Beautiful models! I can't imagine having the energy to build two at once! 😲 In the interest of when (if) I get to my Heller SR build, how did they tie off ropes before belaying pins? One cannot tie a giant knot around say a railing by passing many fathoms of line all around it; how did they ensure rapid release when needed? Just curious.
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- soleil royal
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Looking good! Don't tell me you made those tiny dividers!!!??
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He's referring to the two cross members, also called cross trees, supporting the platform of the top. The "fore" one is the forward one. These cross members are in turn supported by the trestle trees, which are attached to the mast above the cheeks. See Figs 95-97. You are right, there are other cross trees at the topmast head too.
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The leech lines each use two blocks because they belay aft of the mast and have to go to the yard forward of the mast without fouling anything. Yours are ok.
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That does sound interesting! Working on Preussen for now but I can't get a galley out of my head. I think the sweep servos may be a problem as regards overheating; can't find any torque analog servos with metal case for heatsinking and I've seen too many videos with digital servos whining due to their internal CPU (!!) updating position at up to 400 Hz. Don't want the boat to whine, and digital servos burn more power. A servo with internal 32-bit CPU and 12-bit DAC may be de rigueur in an RC helicopter but seems ridiculous overkill to move oars at 30 strokes per minute......And their prices!! Next summer I want to build a full mock-up to test force required to propel full remes of oars in the pool. Right now I have no idea what torque I need. Starting from full stop would obviously require peak torque, but I could start off at a slower & shorter stroke to limit total power. Also thinking maybe I could buy a plastic analog torque servo and cut a hole in the case next to the motor to get access for metal heatsinking. Not sure if it can be done while leaving all necessary motor supports in place. Only one way to find out! 🤞 Once I know a torque value I can select a servo, buy one, and conduct thermal tests under load with a thermistor attached to case. Definitely need more data.
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Hi Bill, I'm glad you mentioned the bunt lines again as looking at your photos I realized there is a mistake. Each main course bunt line runs from abaft the foremast, through a block below the main top (near its front) from forward to aft then to the buntline block on the yard. They only go through this one block; they don't run aft to another as in your pics. It is only the leech lines which require blocks at front and back of the top. You have too many blocks; see "The Main Top" at top of pg 253.
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