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Baker

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  1. Baker
    On my model The space between the waterline and the underside of the cannon port = 90 cm The space between deck and the underside of the cannon port = 70 cm So the cannon deck = 20 cm above the waterline Different sources all say that the height of the deck was about 160 cm (interior) At the end of last year I had some free time to do some calculations The buildlog about the "cannon breech rope length" Is very interesting (thanks Mark).. I came for the master frame on my Golden Hind at this result. 2014Gresham.pdf
  2. Baker
    I agree with Chuck. 24 pounders are far too big for such a small ship. But if you really want to place these 24 pounders. Please put them under the upper deck. Otherwise you have an unstable ship (See my Golden Hind build log)
  3. Baker
    Looks good. Your model looks similar to what I want to build in wood. The transom may be too low below the water line.
  4. Baker
    The stempost and the forward part of the keel is made a little tapered. The tapered part stops between the main mast and the stern Source : The Gresham ship project Index
  5. Baker
    Hallo, The cannon deck is planked. And the upper wale is placed. Width of the gun ports is 9 to 10mm (40 to 45 cm on a real ship) Source: Gresham Ship Project. Index
  6. Baker
    Small update : Planking the lower part of the hull (part two). The entire lower part of the hull is planked. Planking has been done using the same method as in Part 1. Planking on the gun deck is started but not yet ready. Next to do : Further planking on the gun deck. Further sanding the hull. Make the forward part of the keel and the stempost a little taper. Make frames to the upper decks in cherry wood Etc……… Index in post 1
  7. Baker
    The length of a gun barrel does matter. An "modern" example is a russian WW 2 small anti tank kanon. The 45mm model 1937 modernised in 1942 to the model 1942 by making the barrel longer. A longer barrel and higher load of pouwder gives a higher muzzle velocity. This gives a longer range and a more flat trajectory to a projectile that has same weight. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/45_mm_anti-tank_gun_M1937_(53-K) Muzzle velocity 760 m/s (2,493 ft/s) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/45_mm_anti-tank_gun_M1942_(M-42) Muzzle velocity 870 m/s (2,854 ft/s) So these long cannons on the upper deck could be used to hit an object at a longer distance. The gun crew could " safely " lean out over the bulwarks to clean and reload them offboard as they were still away from the enemy I hope my explanation in "google english" Is understandable. And i may be completely wrong with this theory. But this is the thinking of a military modeler. Who has more experience with anti tank guns than with 17th century shipcannons.
  8. Baker
    Michael, Thank you for the explanation and photos. These holes are at such a vertical angle that they are indeed more suitable for cannons instead of seats of ease.
  9. Baker
    Michael There is something I'm curious about. Somewhere I've read that the four round holes in the transom served as seats of ease. But on your model there are four cannons through these holes. Went looking in your buildlog And found this (old) photo from the transom ( i think page 30)
  10. Baker
    Great rigging Michael. And about the lack of space for the cannons on the upper deck. On the 1/10 model in the museum the long cannons are now placed on deck. How could they ever load these cannons? Picture is from the www.Vasamuseet
  11. Baker
    thanks Chris and Christian My way of construction is indeed not as seen in most buildlogs. And it takes a bit longer. The ultimate goal is to build a model as realistic as possible.
  12. Baker
    And thank you Zoltan. The book you advised me to buy will be very useful for the further construction of this model.
  13. Baker
    Thanks Michael, I'm glad to be in your memory files The combination of plywood frames and filler blocks indeed gives a solid hull I remember the problems I had with my Vasa planking where I only had frames and no experience in planking... It was then that I said. Grrr... planking a wooden hull Never again For me, on the lower part of the hull, it takes the same amount of time to place filler blocks instead of a first planking. And filler blocks are in my opinion better. Errors can easily be sanded. And you have a solid basis to bend the planks. Make plank in the right shape. Soak them well in water Clamp them onto the hull and allow to dry Remove them, ad glue on the plank, clamp them on the hull and let dry. Finish The planks are always bent correctly and no expensive tools are required. Thanks to everyone for following and likes Index on page 1
  14. Baker
    Planking the lower part of the hull (part one). First i have read the articles about planking. http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php I have tried to follow the rules for planking a model ship as much as possible. To everyone who helped with this articles, they were very helpful. Thank you very much !! Following the information found the planks were 4.2 to 5.2 meters long The average thickness is 7 cm The width varied between 36 and 48 cm The widest planks were located at the bottom of the hull Source : the Gresham ship project Planking in progress Ready for sanding A first sanding is done with sandpaper grain 60. Halfway in planking the lower part of the hull. In part 2 the other half Index on page 1
  15. Baker
    Welcome to MSW
  16. Baker
    It seems that the Dutch were ahead of the English in the early 17th century In 1604 an Englishman complained That an English merchantship of 100 tons needed a crew of 30 men. A Dutch merchantship of 100 tons needed only 10 men. Building and rigging a ship the Dutch way in the 17th century : Keep it simple but good. You need fewer people You make more profit. Source : Het schip (The ship) by Bjorn Landstrom. Ps, If you have an employer (the king of Sweden). Who wants Halfway the build a bigger ship with more cannons. Then this view is not correct. Then you get a badly built ship that sinks....
  17. Baker
    Thank you for your visit. My way of building a wooden model ship may not always be the usual method. That's because I've been busy with plastic model building all my life. The goal remains the same Try to build a model of a ship, tank, cannon or airplane as good as possible. Planking Goes slow but steady. This is the part of the building that I do not like to do. So it will take a while. Installing the power tools out doors does not take to long And the cleaning is very easy Blow all the dust away with my aircompressor haha
  18. Baker
    As always. Great job with the rigging. Great car My fastest drive. 200km / h (about 124 miles) in Germany on the autobahn with our Z4. Grrr. only 6 miles less haha
  19. Baker
    Hallo, I made wales and extra planks. Wales are 5mm wide and 3.5mm thick. These dimensions are slightly too large compared to shipwrecks . After several attempts for bending the wales. I gave up .. cold water, hot water, very hot water, steaming. Ramin 5mm at 3.5mm will simply not bend enough. So plan B. The front part of the wale at the bow is hand sawed from a solid piece of ramin. And is glued. The rest of the wale is then also be glued into place. The scarf joints between the loose pieces of the wale will be imitated. I don’t have the proper tools too make good scarf joints So, This method works more easily and will look pretty good once finished. Wale N ° 1is attached. The wales are painted black before glueing and sanded after . Now planking has started. The planks are first soaked in water. Are then clamped onto the model until they are dry. Then they are glued. Wale and plank info : The Gresham Ship project Index
  20. Baker
    Michael : thanks Cristian : Most of the info i found came from the internet and is printed as a pdf. and i have some books. Good and correct information about this period is sparse. Things too look for with google about shipbuilding in the late 16th century : "Red bay shipwreck" : the San Juan, a Spanish Galleon. "albaola.com" a modern shipyard that makes a replica of the San Juan. Gresham shipwreck" or "Princess channel shipwreck" "English shipbuilding 16th century" Some links on the internet : http://um.gipuzkoakultura.net/pdf/loewe.pdf http://www.albaola.com/en/site/building-process http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Furring%20in%20light%20of%2016th%20century%20ship%20design_web.pdf http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Full%20thesis%20bates.pdf http://www.wessexarch.co.uk/files/PMA41.2Auer-Firth.pdf http://nautarch.tamu.edu/pdf-files/Myers-MA%201987.pdf http://www.patrimoniocultural.pt/media/uploads/trabalhosdearqueologia/18/22.pdf http://www.bricksite.com/uf/40000_49999/48372/7e570040536647340b5566f37c70ca11.pdf This is very interesting. "The Gresham ship project". I can not make a internetlink for this. But it can be found and saved on the pc or printed for free. The new lay out for the wales. There is a good chance this will be the final layout. Index
  21. Baker
    Thanks. This Apprentice has a good master. (The one that is now building a model of the Vasa) And with a little help from my friends on MSW !! Ps, What are, is "Kudos"
  22. Baker
    Thanks to the extra Images which I received from Cristian (Thanks). We can conclude that the bottom wale was located above the waterline. Actually, if we look closely at the picture of Mathew Baker. Then we can even determine where it was located on the hull. On the model The depth (waterline) is half of the width of the master frame. So 15cm 2 = 7.5cm. (I found this information somewhere in one of the studies of shipbuilding of this period. The depth should be approximately be the half of the width of the master frame.) The lowest point of the wale on the model is calculated and is at 7.6cm. 0.1 cm above the waterline on the model. After making more planks and wales start I will start planking the hull. Maybe this weekend. if my free time allows it
  23. Baker
    Nice work I would also not feel myself "at ease" at the seats of ease.
  24. Baker
    Hallo, The next step is the planking of the hull. Before I start with this, I have a question. Should the lowest wale lie above the waterline. Or may he lie on the waterline or below the waterline. I have no idea whether there are Rules for this. The height of the water line is half of the width of the largest frame 15 centimeter : 2 = 7.5 centimeter (See post with explanation about the possible size of the ship) The waterline stays where it is now ( at 7.5cm) Only the height of the wale can be changed There has been made a trial set-up. 2 wales below the gun ports 1 wale above the gun ports Like on drawings of ships from that era. 2 wales below the gun ports 1 wale above the gun ports And a shipwreck index
  25. Baker
    G.L. For the gun deck simple softwood. Easily processed and will be almost not visible on the finished model. For all of the visible decks and planks of the hull. Ramin wood. These are remnants of when we built our house 25 years ago. I dont know the correct English word. But they are "plinten" (plinths,)( The finish plank between the wood floor and the wall) The ramin currently being sold is very soft and does not look at what was sold 25 years ago. I do not think the real ramin is still available. For the upper frames and other parts : cherry wood. From a cherry tree that is cut down two years ago.

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