reklein

I think Revell instructions got cheap as the years went by. It may help you to find supplementary instructions from a more sophisticated set of plans. Some of the rigging parts may have to be replaced or modified. I'm thinking of the deadeye arrangements and the pre formed ratlines.  Bluejacket Constitution rigging plans are very comprehensive and may help you out if you can find a set or buy them from Bluejacket if they are not too dear.

Greetings to all,
Some more progress on the chuck wagon...
The jig supplied with the kit made the wheels construction easier than I anticipated. For the outer bands on the hubs I cut shrink tubing to the correct width and used a heat gun to shrink in place
The chassis is complete with the exception of trimming the axle shafts to the correct length and fitting the axle nuts. For some reason presently unknown to me the instructions list this as the last thing to do after the wagon body is complete. I will stick to this as every time I don't follow instructions it never ends well.
Moving on to start the wagon bed construction tomorrow.
.
 

A trip into town netted an assortment of implements of destruction - we'll see if those pesky stern block can withstand all of these!
 

 
The file is a mean looking thing with 4 rapid material removal options!  The carving knife came highly recommended.  
 
Here's hoping

Nils
 
I had great fun mentally wondering around the deck. Thanks for posting these shots.
 
Do you have plans of how and where you are going to display her?

Vossiewulf does not suffer from tool collecting, he enjoys it.

Hi Mates,


 
Well this update, for me is actually mostly satisfying.


 
Built two more platforms, and caps

Installed all of the topmasts

Started some ratlines

Made another mouse for the mainmast stay.

Served the mainmast stay, and the block rope on the foremast

Re-worked a Corel triple, and double block

Many new blocks tweaked and attached.

Attached the double pulley at the base of the foremast for the mainmast stay, and attached the triple block.


 
===================


 
A few Grrrrrrs, of course, main topmast sheave cutout should have been angled inward, lack of foresight.


 
Main cap doesn’t quite “sit” right

Mizenmast cap is too close to its platform

Mouse should be, as you know, a woven affair.


 
What I made is obviously incorrect. I saw how to do it correctly on another’s build log. Hmm my skill set not there.


 
Always nice of you to drop by, and thanks for the encouraging notes – much appreciated.

Cheers,


 

 

 

 

 

Hi Mates,
 
Continuing work on the upper main mast, putting all of the bits together, time consuming work that seems as if nothing is really moving forward. But enjoying this part of the build.
 
I found a photo (can’t seen to locate it now) but on this model the fid had a rope attached to it and was then attached to a shroud at the platform. Hmm made sense.
 
So, decided to follow that idea and did the same for the main upper mast.
 

 
 
The sheaves that I added near the tops of each mast were very out of scale. It looks as if I took too much “meat” out of each mast when adding the sheaves. So decided (incorrectly) to add side reinforcement bits on the sides.
 

 
 
Same problem with upper foremast – but too late for a “fix”

 
 
Thought that I would also do minor reshaping of the blocks, I have seen models that actually have blocks that appear narrower on the upper and lower sides.
 

 
FYI’s bought a new lamp. Excellent. It has three levels of brightness. LED, of course, and 6000k daylight. Very light repeated taps on that circle at the outer top adjusts the light; from Amazon.

 
As always thanks for dropping by, the likes and your kind posts.
 
PS: Really enjoying the last season of Black Sails……
 
Cheers,

Build log part 59...
 
Update :
 
for those fellow builders who frequently catching up on the status,.... I put in some overall shots....
The 4 open lifeboats are rigged, they are also equiped with oars (only rudderblades still missing). The two smaller boats will be in the same paint scheme, but without lifelines, as that is too much straining for eyes and hands. The remaining closed boats are waiting for the lifelines to be attached, refer to the pic for one first sample. I decided not to lash on seperate protection covers (canvas)
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

the oars are stored on the oposite side to where passengers would step into the boats
 

The two open boats on the left of the pic have appr. 5 mm less length and a lower sheerboard, they will match in color scheme
The "hard cover" shown here on the sample "closed boat" will be the protection canvas, no seperate lashings under and around the boat.
 
 

 
 

these are the two smaller (shorter) open, also clinkered double ender boats, that fit into the row of 10 boats per ships side with the others. These boats claim to be 1:144 scale, the figurines are 1:160, but I feel they match together perfectly
 
 
 
 

I disagree with Canute. One of the reasons for sealing is to prevent the wood from taking stain color unevenly. Secially in the case of porous woods such and oak and pine. Pine for instance if left unsealed will be blotchy od where theres knots will not take stain at all. Also you need to seal before any paint or lines are put on as your paint will run along the grain of the wood and lose its sharpness.

I think the sealer would improve the use of CA as the wood is sealed and the CA won't soak in so much. If you apply CA to end grain often it will just soak in and leave no glue on the surface so you have to reapply the glue.

I somehow got inspired to start, and once I did I can't stop. We're traveling the first half of June so won't be much then. I'll start the  gunnel timbering today and see where we go from there what with yard work and getting the trailer ready to travel. So far no building board, I like to build "in the air" until I start deck work and rigging Etc.
 

Bill, I thought you mentioned you didn't have time to start building the Syren until second week of June......
Ha at least I found your log and as you can see I have started mine.
I am glad you didn't have the same issue with warping and twist in the BF.
So, now we are waiting for our President of PSSM to get going with his Syren as well.

Well,
I didn't expected I would come to this point.
But here is my build log of the Syren.
I feel a presentation of the kit is not necessary.
 
Reklein and I are both members of PSSM, so this could be considered as a club build.
Our President has already started the build but has had the bit at a stand still for a long time.
 
I had started the kit, but the keel for BF was to warped and twisted to be used, even after two weeks of straightening.
I even tried with the inserted bulkheads and filler blocks to get it straight"er" but to no avail.
I contacted Mr. Mosko at ModelExpo via email and got a quick respons the following morning.
I have shaped the bulkheads, put the templates together and will do other work while waiting for the new BF to arrive.
 
The build jig is made and ready to go to.
 
The current BF and bulkheads are just put together without glue and I am using them to bend the planking.
Thought they could come to good use for that purpose.
 
Lastly, I would like to extend a big thank you to all other members who has build Syren, as your logs will provide a lot of extra information needed for the build and how to avoid pit holes along the way.
Now picture time
 

 

My wife found the photos as she is the designated archives keeper. Looks like I only sanded gluing surfaces. Here's the pic.

Completed the blocking. Once blocking was done the slight curve to the BF was corrected. One problem was ,I kept breaking off the stantions. Part of this trouble was due to the excessively deep laser scoring of reference lines. Only one layer of ply was untouched. Anyways I hardened all the stations with CA and reattached On to the bow fillers and fairing.OOPS! forgot a filler block. These build logs are handy for spotting mistakes.

Started this yesterday, ready for blocking I think. Please disregard the   photo 8203 . I dumb thumbed it.

Completed the blocking. Once blocking was done the slight curve to the BF was corrected. One problem was ,I kept breaking off the stantions. Part of this trouble was due to the excessively deep laser scoring of reference lines. Only one layer of ply was untouched. Anyways I hardened all the stations with CA and reattached On to the bow fillers and fairing.OOPS! forgot a filler block. These build logs are handy for spotting mistakes.

Completed the blocking. Once blocking was done the slight curve to the BF was corrected. One problem was ,I kept breaking off the stantions. Part of this trouble was due to the excessively deep laser scoring of reference lines. Only one layer of ply was untouched. Anyways I hardened all the stations with CA and reattached On to the bow fillers and fairing.OOPS! forgot a filler block. These build logs are handy for spotting mistakes.

Started this yesterday, ready for blocking I think. Please disregard the   photo 8203 . I dumb thumbed it.

Pulling up a chair to follow along.  That Co-Op Creamery looks like a nice HO scale building kit

Completed the blocking. Once blocking was done the slight curve to the BF was corrected. One problem was ,I kept breaking off the stantions. Part of this trouble was due to the excessively deep laser scoring of reference lines. Only one layer of ply was untouched. Anyways I hardened all the stations with CA and reattached On to the bow fillers and fairing.OOPS! forgot a filler block. These build logs are handy for spotting mistakes.

I think you have a fine looking project going there. I'd recommend the PVA for rigging if you have time to wait for drying. Gun rigging looks fine, I know what you mean about blocks too large. I need to see some pics of the real rigs to see what the proportions would be. Maybe you can go smaller on the upper ,more visible decks.

Rib (ends) glued in place on all four boats, and tapered towards the lower end so that the ceiling boards will lay well.
First ceiling board glued in place on all four boats.
I'm going to do these in parallel; it's psychologically easier than doing a lot of work on one and then starting all over again on two, three, and four.
I'm using some boxwood 1/32 x 1/16 strips I have for these ceiling boards, and used boxwood 1/32 x 1/32 for the ribs. I've used up all the small basswood strips that came with the kit as well as additional ones I got some time ago. The boxwood is a pleasure to work with - the ease with which fine chisel work for the tapering can be done is night and day over the basswood.
Next project, whatever it is, will use basswood (or limewood) kit wood only for first planking where a second one will be done. Given the time I spend working on these (3 years plus on the Morgan) the investment in good wood is reasonable. I wish I'd made the skylight on the Morgan from boxwood so I could have had the correct number of rods - the basswood uprights split if I tried to drill the correct number of holes for the rods, so I had to reduce the number.
 

Hello, olla, ahoy friends and collegues.
i think the time just come, that even i create a thread with my work. Not that there is much to show, hehe...
i am building Hms victory, as title of the thread would also tell you.
by no means i build with much of, what you would call skill, its just mere attempt to finish off what i started as a slightly younger enthusiastic modeller with no clue.
i have already described my attempts at building this ship elswhere on this great forum. For those who did not catch it, it whas where i described it as a kit for learning (that for learning what i can and cannot do) and that it is sodomised. The latter i still stand for. In the pictures you will see, why i say so.

my appologies for the choice of surrounding for the pictures. My and the admiral we live in a small flat and i dont have a dedicated workshop.
for those building the same model, i am on issue 69, building and fitting out fore mast.
 

The gallery sits on slightly out of allignement. Nothing i can do now, and i have learned my lesson. Next one will be built a lot better.

You can see, i had to use a lot of filler. It does not bother me, first planking job. Because of that, i had to settle for painting, to cover the botched job.

Also, i dont think this was entirely my fault, but bow looks different to what it should. I have faired it to the point where all the planks were sitting flat. Maybe i over did it... 

Main mast was done according to the instruction, which are btw very, very detailed. Just not correct. Very schematic and simplified.


Main yard. Instruction called for twisting the wire into coil and attach it to the yard. I hate the way it look and will re do it using just thread. Should i stiffen the thread using ca glue or pva?



I tried to imitate the cannon tackles. Looks so bad... good thing is it wont be visible. Those blocks are just way too big for the
scale.

Also, i have not had bees wax just yet, when i finished the railings, thats why the line looks so not hanging much...

I will take any criticism, altough its too late to fix much of it. For encouragement i thank you in advance.
next update will be after the finished fore mast fitting out.
one question: what kind of primer to use on hull? I know car primer, but which one?

Dry fit the spar and compare it to the holes in the ribs to get the right configuration.  Have fun with this kit. I built the Jenny and it was a fun build although time consuming. Which is what its all about anyway.