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Tigersteve
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Everything posted by Tigersteve
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Glad to see you back! There aren't enough Mayflower logs to follow. I have this kit on my shelf for my third build. Look forward to your progress. Steve -
Looks great! Steve
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The instructions said to put them in after. I faired the frames then did some sanding on those two pieces before I glued them in. Then I had to do a little more sanding. The frames look good but if you notice any of them off, you should correct it now. It may affect the shape of the boat. Look at the frames from a couple different angles. Happy New Year! Steve
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Looks good. I would not unglue the skylight either! Lol Steve
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Yes- keep going. Looks good! Steve
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Keith- your build of this is awesome. That's a log for all builders of this one to see. Steve
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The natural stain is not a clear stain. It will darken the wood. Even the pre-stain will darken the wood a little bit. If you scroll through my log you will see the results of the pre-stain and natural stain on basswood. Some of the photos show the wood better. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/14395-18th-century-longboat-by-tigersteve-model-shipways/page-1# Depends on your preference. Do some tests and see what you like. I have all oil based Minwax except for the polycrilic. Steve
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Pencil for inbetween the planks. You can pencil one edge of each plank. You do not need to mark the stem and keel. That seam will show anyway. I would not poly until planking is done. I did not have to reinforce the stem and keel. I don't think it's necessary. The wood glue makes a strong bond. Everything is prone to breakage. These parts are small. Hope this helps. Steve
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Me too Steve
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It looks fantastic. Good work. The rest should be more "relaxing". Don't forget to pre-stain before you stain. Very fine sanding before. Golden Oak usually turns out darker than people expect. My preference was to use the natural stain. Steve
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There's a few more longboat builders in the mix now. How's yours coming along? It's been a while and we're waiting for this surprise! :-) Steve
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Windlass and handles are complete. I drew reference lines and that helped while filing the shape. This part was enjoyable to make. You'll notice an extra windlass I did freedhand now scrap. I completed the horse. It was difficult to get the wire straight. One of my drill bits broke so no oarlocks for now. Steve
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Mike- thank you for the compliment! This is a very challenging kit. Just take your time with it and check all the logs. I followed Erik W, Mike Stuntflyer, Bob F, and Chuck's of course. The planning and laying out of all the tick marks for the planking is extremely important. There are no filler blocks needed in this build. The fair-a-frame you got should help to set up your bulkheads square. I look forward to your first steps. Steve
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I'm curious what you will do with the "bread and butter" boats that come with the kit. Scratch building them will prob take a while although so will the other method. Looking forward to what you do with them. Steve
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Much appreciated. Thank you. I'm just trying to follow the footsteps of some of the folks who have done a great job building her. From seeing your work I think your boats will turn out great. I can't imagine doing this at a smaller scale. This boat is only 6 1/2 inches! Steve
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Great work. Very consistent. Steve
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Yes. His log is a very good example. If you look at the instructions it shows the same. Here's another build log for you. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/629-18th-century-english-longboat-by-chuck-c1760/?fromsearch=1 Steve
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That sounds correct. Bob F's log of this build is very well done. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1465-18th-century-longboat-by-bobf-model-shipways-148-tri-club/?fromsearch=1 Steve
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It's been slow going but lots of progress. All knees were shaped, painted, and installed. The one at the bow was most difficult. These parts seem to get smaller and smaller! Locker hinges are installed. I painted the brass strips black and used the eye hooks as hinges. I left those unpainted for contrast. Oar locks and windlass are next! Steve
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Mike- welcome. Chuck has designed a great kit. I'm in the middle of it myself. I've been using wood glue. It works great. Just a dot at each frame when doing the planking is enough. Best of luck. Steve
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Hi John- the planking is coming together! Here's a link on those minwax products. The pre-stain is to prep the wood before you stain for an even application of stain. The sanding sealer would be more appropriate to prep the wood for paint and not used before staining. Hope this helps. http://www.minwax.com/how-to-finish-wood/wood-preparation/ Steve
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Nicely done. It's one of the most tedious parts those tick strips! Steve
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