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aliluke

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Everything posted by aliluke

  1. aliluke
    Hi Len Truly superb work. Good on you for deciding to move on - I can imagine the feeling you describe. Hull models are very attractive in there own right - yours being no exception - and with the deck details you have added you can now be sure they are all seen. Fantastic stuff and I'll sure follow your next build. Cheers Alistair
  2. aliluke
    That looks absolutely superb Bob. One question - wouldn't the anchor cable run through a series of ringbolts attached to the deck to guide its flow into the hold? I could be dead wrong about this but interested in opinion. As for missing photos, I have the same issue. What I've just tried, successfully, is to the delete the missing image references using full editor on the concerned post and then reinsert the images. Bit of a pain though. Cheers Alistair
  3. aliluke
    Hi Ollie Hmmm. This is a complex subject. You'll find a better advisor than me here...The kit version looks too high but the window frames look right. The windows in the other versions look too modern. My Fly kit supplies a top lit skylight but the reality is it was probably side lit. I'd go for your Post 460. A lowered and more compact version of a top lit skylight. I have NO knowledge about this - just going by eye. In the end, know one really knows and much of what we make in respect of these things is just a best guess A hopeless helper... A
  4. aliluke
    Hi Nathan It occurs to me that the individual pieces in that billet may have only a very minor warp? Perhaps remove all the parts and check each one individually and then flatten any offending ones. I had a warp in my keel on Fly - it was plywood too. I soaked and then weighted with steal plates on a dead flat surface for several days. The warp went away but the wood looked really bad afterwards - covered in black stains from the steel weights. That didn't matter though as it is completely covered within the hull. Hope that helps. Cheers Alistair
  5. aliluke
    Hi If you have a look at my Fly log you can easily make a jig to bend these planks along their length. I wish I'd thought of it when I did my AVS. May help? Cheers Alistair
  6. aliluke
    Fantastic work on those gun port lids Ollie and they look so much better than the cast ones. I'd actually go for the paler mast. The Tasmanian Oak grain might look out of scale - you shouldn't really see anything but the slightest hint of grain I reckon. On my last model I painted the masts and was pleased with the result so that is another option too? Perhaps mount test masts and go with a colour that fits the rest of your work? Cheers Alistair
  7. aliluke
    Wow - that looks superb in every respect. Strikes me that you have set THE standard for this kit. Great work. Cheers Alistair
  8. aliluke
    Looking very good to me Timmo. Symmetry achieved - I wish I could say the same for my weekends efforts with copper tiles. Lusi was slow to arrive but here now with some fine winds and heavy rain - nothing that we aren't used to! Cheers Alistair
  9. aliluke
    Hi Luca Just found your log - very, very nice work, especially on the stanchions. I'm just getting to the end of coppering with the Amati plates on HMS Fly. They are very nice although I have nothing to compare them with. I'm sure you have picked up that the sheets are different for the port and starboard. I also find overlapping the plates vertically - in clinker fashion - is the best (only?) way to get the plates to fit the curvature of the hull. I hardly ever lay them in full strips as they simply can't curve if laid like this. The longest strip would be about 5 tiles before it is forced off line. Cutty Sark will be different though with such a long straight hull. Have a look at my log for a copper ageing accelerant if you are interested in going that way. My experiments with this aren't finished yet and a few here are still laughing about it... I will look forward to seeing your coppering - I find it very difficult and with only one strip left to do, I'm, soon, happy to see it behind me... Cheers Alistair
  10. aliluke
    Hi Ken I'm voting with your son too. I think you are right - the bigger issue is the fairing of the frames. Painting won't fix this. It is one big advantage of double planking I guess, you get two goes. My other points though: First it doesn't look that bad at all, it actually looks pretty bloody good to me. Second, you look down on a model not up at it - so your photos are highlighting stuff that can't been seen when it is displayed. Third, you'll go crazy painting it and curse yourself for investing in holly and then painting over it (I promise you I'm going through this by coppering over boxwood ). Forth, when you come to your next hull you can climb underneath this one - or use a dentists mirror - and figure out what planking lines you'd improve on - you can't see them under paint. Fifth and finally, all of the other detail on the model is such a visual feast that the issues now will fade into insignificance on completion. In my opinion stay natural and move on! My last thought is to be careful with the sanding - it is surprising easy to sand right through a mistake which led to my natural hull turning into a coppered one. If you sand through there is no way back...Go slow, increase fineness of grit and be prepared to say "that will do". Cheers Alistair
  11. aliluke
    Good to see another kit underway. Beagle is a nice subject combining lots of ship boats - seven by my count, cannons, carronades and a howitzer and all the other deck equipment. It is also transitional with chains replacing ropes in many applications. Being a vessel for survey rather than war is another nice touch. If you haven't already read it, I can recommend the novel "Mr Darwin's Shooter" by Roger McDonald - it will get you "inside" Beagle. Also the AOTS of HMS Beagle by Karl Marquardt shows an enormous amount of extra details that even the very finest kit will lack. I look forward to seeing your progress. Cheers Alistair
  12. aliluke
    Looking good Hamilton - I'm glad in your busy life you've found the time to get back at it. Now I can't wait for the next one... Cheers Alistair
  13. aliluke
    Nice stuff RMC. It is interesting to look at your coppering as I go through the same process. In the end I think we took a different route but I think that has to do with the size of the hull. The rudder is going to be a hard one and you have done a very fine job on it. Cheers Alistair
  14. aliluke
    Worth more than a "Like This" - brilliant work Timmo. As we all find out - bugger - a ship has two sides. Best of luck with symmetry but I sense you have it completely in hand. Cheers Alistair
  15. aliluke
    Good to see you at it Martin. I simply scored the stem piece and added a light pencil line to the scoring to mimic the joints - worked for me. Now that I'm coppering only a couple of scored lines remain visible. I think there are many more worthwhile upgrades than rebuilding the stem but it depends on just how far you want to go I guess. If don't have them already the FFM series is a great companion to the model - especially Volume II and IV. I look forward to seeing your progress. Cheers Alistair
  16. aliluke
    I'm looking forward to this log. The Pinky is on my wish list but is far to expensive to post from the USA to New Zealand, that is - more to post than to purchase . Cheers Alistair
  17. aliluke
    A wonderful model Mike. Congratulations - I've just been back through your log - fantastic all the way. Have a glass of the bubbly and celebrate. I wish you were doing Pegasus next but Unicorn or Morgan are going to be damn fine too! I look forward to your next log which ever one it is!!!! Cheers Alistair
  18. aliluke
    Hi If these are the issues you are referring to - see attached - I now remember that some parts of the false deck snapped off between the bulkhead extensions. In my opinion DO NOT alter the bulkheads - alter the deck instead but only so much that it fits. I can't remember having a big problem with this part of the build but I do remember being told that the relationships between every part was the key to a good AVS hull. That is the deck, the waterways, the wale and the gun port opening heights. While I'd otherwise never promote Bob Hunt, his AVS practicum really hammered this point and he was right. It also applies to all ships with gun decks and gun port openings. Have a look at the attached picture of my build and you might notice that some of the false deck snapped off between the bulkheads but it didn't really make any difference. It is still hard to tell what is confounding you without any pictures and help is here! Cheers Alistair
  19. aliluke
    I'm sort of guessing what you are struggling with...the rebates in the false deck do not align with the bulkhead extensions? If that is the issue don't worry about it - just widen the rebates so that the false deck fits. I wouldn't cut back the deck back to get rid of the rebates altogether to make the fit as you will lose the ability to get the camber right and where it finally cambers into the bulwarks is relatively important. You want a false deck under the waterways to as much extent as you can achieve. If the fit is severely bad it may point to another problem? But without a picture I'm not sure if I'm on the right track for your issue. Cheers Alistair
  20. aliluke
    Hey Bob Aside from "Like This" I must say that is incredible work. As per my comment on MSW version 1 - it is very Rafined. Love it, keep it up and I look forward to more. Cheers Alistair
  21. aliluke
    Looking really, really good Jesse - a hull to be very proud of - near perfect from what I can see! Cheers Alistair
  22. aliluke
    That is a very clever system for marking gun ports - impressive work! Cheers Alistair
  23. aliluke
    Nice to see another AVS up and running. I lost my log in the crash of MSW last year but there are a few pictures here. You look like you are off to a great start! Cheers Alistair
  24. aliluke
    Hi Ken Just a thought since your log has popped up again - shouldn't the flags be flying in the opposite direction? With the wind that is driving the sails? I made the same flags for my AVS but without sails they looked a little pretentious to my eye so left them off. They really work with sails though! Cheers Alistair
  25. aliluke
    Hi Jan Been following your log. The rails look great. My lessons in blackening: - Remove all grease from the part with a soak and brush in lacquer thinners or acetone. - Do not touch the part after this as your fingers are greasy! - Soak part in Spirit of Salts (a diluted form of sulphuric acid) for 10 minutes or so. - Soak in the blackening solution. I use Birchwood Casey's Gun Black and dilute 50/50. - Gently wipe with tissue paper - if the black comes off re-soak in the blackening, if it still comes off re-soak it again and so on. The most important thing is to prepare the part by getting rid of grease and then giving it an acid etch. Many miss this. Next is to keep your greasy fingers off it until it is finished. Blackened bits beats painting easily in terms of look but I do both...Certainly cannon barrels are better blackened but I'm more inclined to just paint bolts and other smaller parts. Cheers Alistair

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