flying_dutchman2

When I bend a plank to shape I use a row of clamps. It becomes a 'clamp forest'. 

The three wales on both sides are installed with the planking in between. According to the picture in the book the blank between the lower wale and the middle wale is painted green and between the middle and the top wale is painted red 

I goofed in the stern. My curved strip is too long. So the little area there, is extra. Will either add another walnut plank making a small 4th wale or a cherry plank and paint it red. 

All and all I am pretty happy with the results. There are some small gaps between the planking. Not sure what to do. In the past I used to jam slivers of the same wood in it as filler is never the same color. 

Suggestions are welcome. 

Also created the rudder and tiller and the leeboards. 

Marcus 

Kees, 

Congrats on the new job. The rivetting looks good. Your attention to all the details is amazing. 

Marcus 

Hi G. L., 

Thanks for taking the time to go to the library and take a picture of the punter. I like the model with the farmer and his cows. That is so Dutch. Dutch is my first language so that is no problem. 

I am interested in the article and would appreciate if if you scanned it and emailed it to me. I'll pm you with my email. 

Marcus 

So I wonder if National Geographic made a mistake which is rare as they check their facts all the time. 

The boat in my picture sure looks very different compared to yours. 😂

The picture of that ship you put in your previous post is more like it. Long ship, living quarters, large cargo area and large sails.

I am tempted to write National Geographic travel magazine and point to there mistake. 

Just think, someone reads this article, goes on vacation to Blokzijl with a large family and wants to rent a punter. The rental place shows him the little boat instead of the boat from the article........ 

The Boyer. 

Been working on the walnut wales and the cherry planks in between the wales.

Also created the 2 curved pieces (don't know what they are called) that go on the stern. The wales are attached to it on the sides. 

Where 2 planks meet I use a method I've seen on a lot of other Dutch ships. I did this with the Utrecht as well. It looks good and I assume in real life it locks into place. . 

Marcus 

Jan, 

Thanks for the clarification. Looking back to the description, here is what it says. 

Blokzijl : built around a horseshoe harbor, this largely 17th century gem in the eastern province of Overijssel comes surrounded by lakes, ponds and canals, and is fittingly known for its water sports.

The local punter boats can be rented if you want to tour the boggy waterworld, and hiking routes lead through the area's Weeribben-Wieden national park. 

I'll continue to search on a future date 

Marcus 

Back to the Boyer. The wales on this boat are noticeable thick so I have added a third layer. Above that layer is a strip of cherry. 

The wales are a challenge but with lots of moving it slightly up or down and soaking it for more than a week in water, I can position it correctly 

Marcus 

Jan, 

Here follows a picture of the magazine and I made two sketches of what the picture sort of looks like. 

Marcus 

Started with the bottom wale. Two 1mm each, walnut strips, on top of each other. 

Tha advantage of building both the mill and Boyer is that when a strip is drying on the boat I can work on the mill. 

Marcus 

Finished all the angles on the roede. Dry fit with a deklat on top. Three more to go. 

Marcus 

#G. L.

Thanks for mentioning this. I would be interested in the month and year of the article.

The picture I have from the article has a large punter with 2 sails. The main sale is huge. 

Marcus 

Still working on the angles of the heklatten which go into the roedes. This is a slow process, so no pictures. 

Marcus 

For the Dutch readers.

I was reading the travel magazine from the national geographic the other day and there was a small blurp about the city of Blokzijl in Overijssel. The picture shows a ship called a 'Punter'. That would be an interesting build especially as this type of boat is from around the 17th century. 

'Jan', maybe you know more about it. 

Marcus 

Completely sanded the hull and it is nice and smooth. Also hollowed out the hull a bit more so the deck fits better. 

Second planking will be cherry and the wales laminated walnut. I have a source that can supply me with as much cherry as I want and it is free. The planks are 36" x 6" x 1/8" and 1/16". What I like about cherry is that over time it will turn darker. Sort of imitation oak. 

I have cut planks at 0.5mm and 1mm thick. Both types will be soaked in water and both will be dry fitted with clamps on the hull. I want to see which one fits and looks better. Because the model is large I think I can use the 1mm planks and that will not look clunky. 

Marcus 

As always, I am very late in joining a build. This particular ship has always been of interest to me. Your built is beautiful, love the details. 

Marcus 

My wife is at the conferences and this am I scooped out the resort. We are staying at the Kalahari resort in Wisconsin. Lots of stuff to do and lots of little kids to watch out for. There is a small pool for 21 and older. It is way too busy every where. I am not good with crowds. 

I set up shop outside close to our room and have been sanding the Boyer for the last 3 hours. It is coming along nicely. The best of all, and what cog said I don't have to clean up the dust 

Marcus 

# Jan. 

All the vanes have the same template. 

The instructions describe how the real vanes are made but that would be too difficult to create. So he describes an easier method that can be created for the model. 

In a real mill, the roedes are to be drilled out and the slats (heklatten) are fitted into the holes. 

In the instructions there are 2 inside roedes and 2 outside roedes 1 & 3 and 2 & 4. Also, many terms with descriptions. 

Marcus 

I started working on the fitting of the horizontal slats. 

First I angle the saw so it rests on both vertical pieces of the template. I saw at an angle and guess when I have gone deep enough on both sides. 

The plan shows how much angle needs to be cut and how to install all the pieces. 

With rifler files I remove the piece of wood where the slat will rest. 

The slat is fitted to see if the angle is correct. 

Once it is correct, the empty space will be filled with wood filler so the roede is even on all sides and once dry, a slat will be glued on top of the roede to hold it all together. 

This process of installing the horizontal slats will be done 21 times at different angles. Times that by 4 vanes which equals 84.  Long process but in the end it should look pretty good 

Marcus 

12 hours ago, cog said:

SO you do not need to clean up the dust ... clever

That is the idea. Do it outside on a bench somewhere and if it rains on the balcony of our room. 

Marcus 

Worked on preparation of getting all the pieces together that make the vanes. The hardwood stock was 9mm by 2mm which I cut to 5mm by 2mm (the table saw comes in very handy) . The plans call for different widths but I kept it all the same. 1mm here and there isn't going to matter and while laying it all out on the plans it doesn't look clunky or too wide. 

Cut a little less than 13 meters (39 feet) of wood. 

The following have some Dutch words which I have no translation or it sounds rather weird. 

After reading the instructions over and over, I figured out how the vanes are put together. (either my Dutch is not what it used to be or the instructions are not very good). 

After the template (pieces #90, 91 & 92) are put together, one has to nail de roedebalk (Rod bar) on top of piece #92 of the template. (I made a hole for a screw). 

Than you lay the heklatten (no English), which are the horizontal pieces, on the roede and follow the angle of the curve on piece #91 of the template. 

Every heklat has a slightly different angle, so to lay it flat on the roede on needs to cut the area out, so it lays flat on the roede and downwards. 

The example shows it better. I made a piece from cardboard 

I hope this makes a bit of sense, if not you will understand it better when I take pictures doing the actual cutting 

Marcus 

22 hours ago, Jack12477 said:

Just a short update to let everyone know that I am still upright, ventilating, taking nourishment, and on the green side of the sod, as my Dad used to say. 

😂 I like that quote 😂

Marcus 

Been sanding the 1st layer of planking, slowly. Should be all done next week as I will have lots of time. 

My wife has a (Epic, which is a medical software) conference up in Wisconsin next week and I am tagging along. We will be staying in a resort, so besides swimming and taking advantage of the free stuff I will sanding the Boyer. 

Marcus 

2 hours ago, cog said:

Can't  say she isn't waterproof on top ...

We will find out when she is outside. With the second layer and some touch up on the sides it may withstand a torrential down poor. 

Marcus 

Added about 2-3mm layer of tile glue on the cap. Once dry, add a 1-2mm second layer on top of that and use the same coarse brush I used for the mill wall, to brush imitation thatch. 

Marcus 

1st layer planking is completed. I have already added some wood filler here and there. 

Once dry give it a complete sanding and continue to add wood filler if needed. After that start with the lower wale and going up to the raling and then down to the keel. 

The wales are going to be difficult as they need to be curved in 2 directions. 

The Utrecht had a similar curvature but with the Boyer it is more extreme. 

Re-did the wale template as the first time my curve was off and most importantly my Boyer is 21mm longer than the plan. I goofed at the bow. It is longer. Not that it will matter much. I will adjust accordingly. 

Marcus 

Closed the cap with oak veneer. Repainted some of the surfaces. Once dry I will add a layer of tile glue and apply it the same way as the fake thatch 

Marcus