flying_dutchman2

Started working on the triangular piece (kruiwerk) opposite of the vanes which is the back. Measured the strips that were needed and put a coat of primer on them.

The second coat of paint has been applied and the mill is starting to look good. 

While the gray paint was still wet, added a bit of yellow ochre and brown to it and with a brush, brushed downward strokes. Need to do some areas again. Then I will add a picture here. 

At the woodclub yesterday someone mentioned a site that sells high quality silicone molds for bricks, pavers, blocks, etc. Should have known, I would have purchased the brick mold. Some of my bricks are a bit uneven. The molds eliminate that. My bricks will have that 'old look'. 

Site is called hirstarts.com

They send international as well. 

Marcus 

Made another batch of bricks this AM, around 330. I dry stacked bricks on the foundation template and it is not 200 but 80-100 depending on an extra layer. 

Off to painting another coat on the vanes 

Marcus 

3 hours ago, amateur said:

Are those 200 enough, or will there be a second batch?

 

jan

There will be many more. My guess is 200-250 for one side. I have 8 sides. Under 2000 should be enough. The clay cost $11.00 for 10 lbs which is 4.5 kilo. Pretty cheap. 

When the mill is completed it will be heavy so a strong wind should not be a problem. 

Marcus 

Bricks were completely dry and several had there edges sanded off. Most of them are similar in shape. I stacked them to make a wall and a few are off, so those I won't use. 

Took about 2-1/2 hours to make around 200 bricks, this is excluding drying. 

After looking at many mill pictures on the Net and in a mill booklet I have decided how to paint the vanes. I am using the colors from the instructions and may improvise a bit.

Started on the first coat vanes. The roede is black on all sides, the windbord is chromium oxide green on both sides, the vertical slats (zoomlatten) are Titanium white on the front and the horizontal slats (heklatten) are chromium oxide green on the front.

Lots of mills don't have paint on the back and sides of the horizontal and vertical slats.

I think I mentioned the reason already. The Miller doesn't paint the slats so he can climb on the vanes to check for broken areas. 

Marcus 

1 hour ago, cog said:

 you might want to use a satin or matt water resistant varnish. glossy lacquer ... not so mill like ...

My plan was matt lacquer. The varnish idea sounds like a good idea as well. 

Any of the shiny paints that are on the mill get a coat of Dull coat. 

Marcus 

17 minutes ago, cog said:

You are right, there. Take into account that for the inside to dry completely it takes a bit longer (at your size certainly an hour ). However, since, I presume, you won't bake your bricks. 

I am letting them dry overnight. Baking? At what temp. and how long, is it better than air drying? 

I went to the website of this product and can't find anything on baking this type of clay 

I will paint it a darker red and use lacquer on it to protect it from the weather 

Marcus 

Bought some more supplies to finish the mill. 

Menards: 1 quart of Cliff gray Max Bond exterior paint. This is to imitate the thatch. 

Hobby Lobby: More acrylic paints. Orange, Grass green, Black, Titanium white and Crimson

For the bricks that will be glued to the foundation wall. 

AMACO 10 lbs Air Dry clay ($11.00), terra cotta color. 

Made a template of poplar with 56 rectangular holes 3/4" by 1/4" by 1/4". 

Took pieces of clay and press in the molds, making sure that the corners are filled in. 

Once all clay is in the molds, scrape off excess clay on both sides. 

The mold is filled with clay. 

Use a scrap piece of wood that is the same size as the mold and gently push out the clay bricks (looks like little loafs of bread) . 

SO far it seems to work. Once dry I can always sand the edges. Not all of them are the same size.

This process can be applied to any size bricks. I opted out of the method that uses tile grout and fortified as I had previously mentioned in this build. This method is cheaper, no mixing of material and works just the same. 

I don't know how long it takes to air dry but I assume it has to do with the temp. and humidity of the location. 

Marcus 

Vanes (wieken) completed. 

Marcus 

Wood used on the vanes. 

Long piece that holds it together (Roede) is poplar. 

Piece on top of the roede and the windbord is cherry. 

Horizontal (heklatten) and vertical (zoomlatten) slats are purpleheart. 

Someone at the woodclub gave me a big tube full of it. So I thought that it would be a perfect fit as it is strong and dark in color. 

Marcus 

Inboard planking is completed. Added 2mm by 2mm stock, 3 pieces side by side which equals 6mm in width as the top of the railing. Once dry, sand and paint it dark brown or black and glue them in place. 

Marcus 

Finished putting together 2 vanes. The other 2 are almost done as well. Than need to add some filler, sand them and paint them.

The above pictures show the angle of the vertical slats (zoomlatten), on the horizontaal slats (heklatten). 

Next week I will go to hobby lobby to get some more colors of acrylic paint and some dark red powder (to color the bricks). 

Bricks will be created from a combination of Polyblend Sanded tile grout, Quickcrete concrete acrylic fortified and the red powder. I have already made a template and downloaded the instructions from the miniatures site. This process will be described later on this build. 

Also need to get a couple of cans of Clear coat lacquer (not glossy), 1quart of grayish paint to imitate the thatch. 

Marcus 

Vane one and two both have their 2nd vertical slat (zoomlat) glued on.

The Titebond III dries fast. Per instructions is to clamp for 30 minutes and longer is better. Do not stress joints for 24 hours. Not much stress here so I will add the third vertical slat. 

Do it three more times to have all the vanes look alike 

I have noticed that some of the horizontal slats are not straight, they are a bit on an angle. Doesn't interfere with moving in the wind but looks a bit weird. 

Another major mistake I made is that the 1st and 2nd vertical slats (1st en 2de midden zoomlat) have to be in the back of the horizontal slats. The 3rd vertical slat is to be placed in front of the horizontal slat (achter zoomlat). I am making all the vanes with this mistake. Not going to redo this. 

Marcus 

Sanding the hull is pretty much completed except for a small area on the bow. 

Started the inboard planking with 2-ply cherry.  It will follow the curve of the wales. Some of it will dissappear below the deck as that has a much relaxer curve. Barely anything on the Boyer is straight. 

The Custum cabinet maker in the town over is retiring so I was given many planks of maple, cherry and walnut. Four sheets of veneer 8' by 1' - 2-ply of 2 cherry and 2 maple. It is 0.8mm thick. So nice planking. Also picked up a combo sander. 10" disk and 3' long flat sander which can be tilted. Could have used that for the mill couple of months ago instead of the small one I have. 

Marcus 

All 4 vanes have there horizontal slats (heklatten) glued in the roedes. 

Started by measuring the spaces of the long vertical slats (zoomlatten) by creating a template from basswood with the width of 26mm. Pencil a line using the template as a ruler. 

Apply glue dots along the pencil line. 

Put the template back and clamp it to a slat. This will help me by aligning the vertical slat. 

Push the vertical slat against the template and clamp to horizontal slats 

Remove template. 

Start clamping each section and let dry overnight. 

Did the first part of 2 vanes and here they are drying. 

The above is a tedious job and will take the longest to complete. Everytime I do a vertical slat (zoomlat), I will let it dry overnight. 

Once they are completed I will paint some parts. 

Marcus 

Working on the vanes in stages. When one step is done from one vane, go to the next one and do another step. As for the glue used it is Tight bond III which is waterproof. The vanes will be painted except the slats. In reality a Miller doesn't paint his slats but uses an oil base material so he can regularly check his 'ladder' (slat parts) to check for broken slats. 

Here are 3 stages of assembly. From left to right. Left: Glued the slats on the roedes. Middle :

Deklat which is a strip of wood glued on top of the roede and keep slats in place. Right: glued windbord in place. 

Strip of 5mm thick wood glued to the template. The slats are to end there. 

Sheet of basswood clamped to the strips on the side to keep all slats aligned. 

Deklat installed. 

The 4 triangles, or kluften hold the windboard at the same angle as all the other slats do. 

Windboard is glued and clamped. 

Marcus 

14 hours ago, cog said:

You missed a spot on the starboard side ... looks quite smooth from this side of the internet. The stern must have been hard to shape ...

Carl, 

Sanding is not yet completed, but thanks for letting me know. 

The stern was difficult to shape. The bluff bow, I have experience with (yachts, tjalk, boeier and botter). 

Marcus 

16 hours ago, Mark Pearse said:

Well done Marcus, they are remarkable craft. 

 

Mark

Mark, 

Yes they are and a challenge to build especially when there is very little information about them. Couple of pictures in the 17th century merchant ship book and a painting. 

Marcus 

Started on the vanes and while each step needs to dry overnight I will also be working on the triangular piece (kruiwerk) which will be positioned in the back of the mill. 

These are all the pieces that make up one vane (wiek). The 4 triangular pieces on the lower right of the picture are called 'kluften'. They hold the light brown long piece at an angle. This is part of the vane that catches the wind making the vane move in the wind. 

The horizontal slats have been glued to the roedes. It will be drying overnight. Next time I will fill in the area on top of the slats with a combo of sawdust and glue. 

This is to show the angles of all the slats. 

Marcus 

Completed the second layer of planking and filled in the cracks with a mixture of cherry sawdust and white glue. Once dry, the hull will be sanded. 

Marcus 

1 hour ago, amateur said:

Hi Markus,

 

not onlyneed the roedes the same weight, they need to have it at the same distance of the centre....

Jan, 

The copper tubing in which the roedes are attached to are all 90 degrees, so I am good on that one. 

I don't know about finishing her before the rain season sets in. I will be spending more time on making the vanes then building the mill structure. 

Looking at her with the roedes the mill is pretty big, but then compared to the house and when she is in the garden she won't look 'that' big. 

Marcus 

I have completed the planking up to the wales. Now comes the difficult area. I plan to use two pieces of 0.5mm thick planks glued on top of each other, which makes the thickness of all the other planks I used. 

I will do this as there is some extreme bending. 

My planking of the Boyer is different to the model in the book. The model in the book follows the curve of the wales all the way to the keel. It does straighten out a bit. That stern of the model has straight planking as well.

So, it follows the curve of the whale and towards the stern it bends 90 degrees and ends up straight when it hits the rudder post. (hope this made sense). 

I followed the planking as a combination of the Utrecht and from a book of the Valkenisse, by Rob Napier. 

The Dutch planked there ships differently compared to the rest of the seafaring world and I am doing this in my models as well. 

Marcus 

Completed drilling the holes in the roedes. Dry fitted them on the copper tubing that is part of the axle. 

Next comes building the vanes one by one. The instructions mention that this process is to work slowly and wait a day everytime you finish a step for the glue to completely dry. 

There is a step that I am not going to do. Two edges length wise of the roedes need to be planed. My biggest fear is that I may take off too much on them. Then the weight of the completed roedes will be different on each of them. 

All 4 roedes need to be close to the same weight, so it is balanced. I have a postal scale which I will use to weigh the roedes before I am permenantly attach them to the copper tubing. 

Marcus 

Finished all 84 angle cuts on the 4 roudes. The blue tape is to keep the wood from splitting as I still need to drill 1/2" holes into the roedes. 

Once all that is done it is a matter of fitting and glueing the pieces that make up the vanes. 

Also clinker built the front of the cap which will be painted green. 

Still lots of paint work to do and purchase the material for making the bricks. 

Marcus 

Been doing some house projects such as resurfacing the driveway, resealing the concrete patio and just finished degreasing half of the garage. Tomorrow I will reseal it with a concrete sealer. After that I will do the other half. 

Did do 2 cherry planks every day last week so the boat is coming along. 

Cutting your own planks is an education. I thought I had it down but after I measured the thickness of every plank I noticed 1/2 are off by a mm. So once the hull is planked there will be a lot of sanding. Better too thick than too thin. 

Marcus 

HTH, 

I have used that method as well but never for filling tiny gaps between planking. 

On the Utrecht I used it to fill the gap between the deck and the frames. Made a thick paste and applied it. Also on my windmill built I used it to fill large gaps. 

Thanks for the suggestion. 

Marcus