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Posts posted by flying_dutchman2
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8 hours ago, G.L. said:
I mean the final layer. The layerthat will remain visible.
Final layer not on yet. I plan to do the decks and the railings first because I will be moving the model a lot just to get the decks in the correct position. I don't want to dent the 2nd layer planking.
Marcus
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11 hours ago, G.L. said:
Marcus, I see you tree nailed the planks. Is that already the upper layer of planks?
G. L.,
Upper layer of planks? Do you mean the second layer of planking or the first layer of planking but up towards the taffrail mould?
My tree nais are toothpicks cut in half with a razor blade.
Marcus
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12 hours ago, Ab Hoving said:
Congratulations Markus. This time it will work.
The 'man' 🙂
Thanks Ab. She looks so much better and the lines flow much nicer.
As I wrote in Stevens reply, I will start on the decks now and install some of the inside the hull planking, that is the area on the main deck and the rest of the upper decks.
Marcus
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14 hours ago, Louie da fly said:
A wonderful job, Marcus! I can't wait to see her after second planking. She's going to be very beautiful.
As an Australian, I find this build fascinating. My first history book when I was in primary school in Western Australia was called "Australia since 1606" and I heard all about the Dirk Hartog and de Vlamingh silver plates and I've since seen the latter one in the shipwreck Museum in Fremantle, along with the relics of the Batavia, Zuytdorp and Vergulde Draeck.
And of course Rottnest Island and the Swan River where I grew up were named by Vlamingh.
Steven
Steven,
Thanks for the compliment. Over the course of this build I've been reading a lot about the Dutch Ship wrecks on the coast of Australia and the museum in Fremantle pops up constantly (just need to visit it all....... one of these days... ). Museums in Australia have a wealth of information about the Dutch. Furthermore, many PhD dissertations in marine archeology are written about Dutch Ship wrecks in and around Australia and most of these papers are free.
Because you like this build, you need to check out Jean-Pierre's beautiful build. In the search area, type Dutch whaler. It is a good looking model. Everything is nice and round. No straight lines.
The second planking will be cherry (which will darken over time), and walnut for the wales. But first I need to install the decks and figure out where the masts will be placed.
Marcus
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- mtaylor, Jack12477, FriedClams and 4 others
- 7
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4 hours ago, Jean-Pierre said:
Looks much better than your previous attempt. By the way, you may be interested by some pics of my own build of a flute (on this forum: see Dutch Whaler by Jean-Pierre: I tried to add the link, but the program keeps changing the address into an image of said build log)
You might be interested by the way I made the short bends at the stern.
Anyway, I strongly suggest that you also glue the battens to each other, which hugely reinforces the first planking.
Thank you for the complement. Yes, I checked your build and I am impressed with how you build her.
It is not an easy ship to built.
Marcus
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Jean-Pierre,
Second layer of planking was beautifully executed.
The kit is a smaller version of a Fluit. The hull is all round, not a straight line in sight.
Did you ever finish the ship?
Marcus
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Kees,
Again, excellent details. I also like the many pictures you upload of a particular project you would be working on.
Marcus
- cog, kees de mol and FriedClams
- 3
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- mtaylor, G.L., GrandpaPhil and 3 others
- 6
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After measuring and remeasuring, doing some more dry runs and staring at it, I laid out the frame pieces needed to built up the area.
Stared at it some more and dry fitted one more time, I glued the frame parts one by one with Tightbond III glue (over kill). Clamped the frames making sure they fitted exactly where they are supposed to be.
The planks are dry fitted so I know how the contours of the frames are and that it all fits.
I am satisfied with how it all looks. The hips of the ship are round. It is definitely different compared to what I did in the first place.
I will do the other side tomorrow.
Marcus
- Louie da fly, bruce d, G.L. and 3 others
- 6
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15 hours ago, Ab Hoving said:
Excellent Marcus, you are on the right track now!
Next be aware that your real planks should curve upwards to the stern to get the sheer you want.
Always keep an eye on the lines....
Ab,
Thank you for the encouragement and as always, thank you for your guidance in building this ship.
Marcus
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20 hours ago, Louie da fly said:
Very impressive, Marcus. I'm following this design evolution with great interest. I'm not sure I have the courage to pull apart and rebuild to the degree you're doing it.
Steven
Steven,
Either I do a drastic re-do or start all over again. If I left it the way it was the area would be too much of an angle instead of straight up.
I have learned a lot from the drastic re-do as I want to build another Fluit and it will be much easier knowing what I should look out for.
Marcus
- GrandpaPhil and mtaylor
- 2
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I did a dry run of the shape of the re-do area. I like to get a visual of it all before anything becomes permanent. It looks so much more like a Fluit.
This time the temporary planks end up in the middle of the ship compared to last time.
Next I will remove all the planks and and use the battens to follow the natural curve of the ship.
I created lots of molds from scrap wood and I have also made molds from card. They will be fitted and sanded to shape to fit the missing pieces.
Marcus
- tarbrush, FriedClams, mtaylor and 2 others
- 5
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Kees,
The details are amazing (hartstikke hartstikke mooi) And I agree with cog about the guider piece. I was surprised to see that.
Marcus
- mtaylor and kees de mol
- 2
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Here is my batten screwed into the back of the sternpost with a temp. Taffrail-shaped mould.
My somewhat stiff but still flexible battens are 2mm by 2mm square dowels of basswood (it is what I have handy) which I will use.
Other material I am experimenting to use is 2-ply, 1.5mm thick maple veneer.
Marcus
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Hi Ab,
Thank you very much for this suggestion. The sketch is very helpful and I am implementing this.
I tried a 4mm by 4mm batten and it isn't that flexible. 1mm by 4mm is better.
Let me start working on this template.
Marcus
- FriedClams and mtaylor
- 2
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Did not do anything on the Fluit for about a week. Stared at the area that has to be changed. I measured and remeasured the area over and over. Did make a brass template
to make sure that I end up in a point behind the rudder
and that the angle of the railings are correct.
So today removed not just the planking but also part of the bulkheads (no. 5, 10, 15) on the stern. I still need to remove the planking from bulkhead 20 and 25 and replace with new planking which will cover from bulkhead 25 to 5 for both sides.
This area will be sanded flat.
Where the bulkheads have been removed I will replace with new pieces of bulkheads, which I need to cut out with the Scroll Saw.
I have been working very slow on this.
Marcus
- Baker, FriedClams, GrandpaPhil and 3 others
- 6
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Zeehaen 1639 by flying_dutchman2 - 1:37.5 - Dutch Fluit of Explorer Abel J. Tasman
in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Posted
This jig measures the height and checks if both sides are level. Both sides have to be even.
Besides measuring the height of both sides, I also draw the waterline on the hull and with pushpins attach planks to the edge of the waterline.
From the plans I measure the distance from the waterline to the top of the railing. Then I transfer that figure to the ship.
Lets me know how much wood I need to remove or add.
Marcus