flying_dutchman2

Thanks for all the likes and comments.

Added a layer of sanding sealer to the outside of the hull. The advantage for me is that when I paint any area of the hull and accidentally get paint on an area which is not to be painted, it wipes off easily without leaving anything behind.

The blue thing is a silicone ice cube tray and it is where I keep the paint I use in.

Painted the upper area of the hull and the little windows on the stern.
Colors used:  Yellow Ochre, Chrome Oxide Green and Cadmium Red Deep Hue.

I ran out of maple for the deck planks so instead I am using Baltic Birch which is also nice and light in color, 1/32" (0.79mm) thick. Cut strips of 200mm L, by 6mm W and darkened one edge of it. I know it is not the conventional planking method but it works for me and the end result is about the same.

Next I will start making the different deck items. 

Marcus 

On 2/2/2021 at 7:16 AM, Meriadoc Brandybuck said:

Don't you need holes for the gammoning, or will it fit through your grating there?

There is one oval hole for that, you just can't see it. 

Marcus 

Thanks for all the likes and comments.

I was reading the book from Mondfeld and on the pages of the "Head" he talkes about the "seats of ease", the latrines on a ship. He says that modelers rarely add this item. There is a modeler on MSW that built the Victory and he has added them on the head.

I checked the plans of the Zeehaen again and wondered if Cor Emke had added this to the head. I did notice a circle on each side of the head and wondered if that was it.

So I researched examples on other ships and it is rare that you find anything about it. I did find an article about Queens Ann Revenge wreck and divers had located a porta potty of that ship.

I decided to create 2 seats of ease and installed them on the head.

Marcus

Worked on the rudder and created 6 gudgeons and pintels from brass bars which were 1/64" thick and 3/32" wide. 

The top 3 were sanded lightly and painted with matt black oil paint. The bottom 3 and the bottom part of the hull will be painted dirty white. 

Started working on the different decks. Lots of measuring. 

Yesterday it was in the upper 40's so I put the bandsaw outside and cut 3 inch cedar planks down to an inch thick each. Made 2 birdhouses. They will probably be occupied by the many wren's I have. 

Marcus 

I also read in an article about the architecture of the ship that the high walls of the hull made it more difficult to illegally board the ship. The crew was much better protected. 

Marcus 

Jean-Pierre, 

I will check which Fluit, Kolderstok will make a kit from. Stability, probably. Big round hips for lots of cargo. 

Marcus 

Jean-Pierre, 

Here is the link. Big discussion on the reason why the Fluit was built the way she was built. As so many sources say that her narrow deck was so a Fluit payed less toll. Totally Wrong. 

https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/threads/17e-eeuwse-fluyt-kolderstok.274136/

Marcus 

3 hours ago, Meriadoc Brandybuck said:

Recently came across this and I'm loving what you're achieving here!  I'd like to build a fluyt someday (perhaps after some practice with one of the Kolderstok kits).  Can't wait to see more of how this lovely lady takes her shape.  The beakhead and head timbers are coming together quite nicely!

Thank you so much for the compliment. 

Kolderstok is in the process of creating a Fluit. It is the same one as I am building here. 

Marcus 

After cutting off excess wood on the little deck and sanding the area, I installed the knees

and lastly the grating floor. 

Marcus 

Thanks for all the likes and Steven, thanks for the compliment.

Speak of ripping stuff off, after installing all the cheeks I noticed I had forgotten the anchor rope holes. So without removing the bowsprite and the cheeks I removed the little deck, drilled 4 holes with great difficulty, reinstalled everything and need to let dry overnight so I can sand and shape the area. 

Marcus 

Thanks for all the likes and comments.

After all the cheeks were rough sanded, I started to dry fit the bottom cheeks. When everything fit I glued each side in place. The next day I sanded the bottom cheeks and dry fitted the second layer of the cheeks, glued in place and the following day sanded that and did the same for the 3rd, 4th,and fifth cheek layer. This process has taken me 3 weeks.

Also my first attempt a lion from Sculpey, looks more like a monster. I see that it needs work.

With Christmas did not work much on the Zeehaen. I spent several nice days in December outsie with my newly acquired bandsaw from WEN. Most of the wood I got from my woodworkers club has been sawn in 3, 5, 7 an 10mm planks.

Next will be the grating that is inside the cheeks.

Marcus

Thanks for all the likes and comments.

Cut out and rough sanded all the cheeks from walnut and some extra pieces from cherry and basswood. I use the basswood and cherry pieces as practice. Once these pieces fit I will take and compare them to the walnut cheeks, fine sanding where needed and glue them together. I know this is a lot of work but it is my way of getting it right

It has been warm these last two days so all the cutting and rough sanding was done outside. 

Marcus 

Thanks for all the likes and wonderful comments.

Building the bowsprite. I find this part on of the most demanding exercise of building a scratch ship model. I always double or triple the pieces of wood that make up the bowsprite. I always break one or two.

I have glued some of the paper templates to the wood. I will make them out of walnut and cherry. 

Marcus 

I like how you built your bowsprite, something I am working on for my Zeehaen. Not an easy item to create. 

Marcus 

Thanks for all the likes and comments.

Small update. 

Painted all the windows yellow ochre. 

Inserted the single and double blocks in upper area of the hull. The area where the single blocks are located will be painted 'An Dyk' green. 

I don't know the name of this but installed a small rectangular piece of wood with a hole for rope in between the upper wales. 

Marcus 

Presently adding a few things to the hull. Created the 4 windows on the stern area and the two in the upper area of the back of the hull. 

I am not doing these Itty bitty carvings and instead putting little pieces of wood around the window frames and then painting it Yellow Ochre, a color that existed in the Dutch golden age. 

Holes are cut into the hull on different areas and single and double blocks are put into them. 

Marcus 

On 11/5/2020 at 5:06 PM, Louie da fly said:

Heroic (and imaginative!) solutions. 

 

Just one question - why do the additions to the sternpost not go all the way down to the keel? You've probably got a good reason, but I can't see it at the moment.

Thanks for all the likes and comments. 

I don't know. The plan shows the way I did it. 

Marcus 

Beautiful and well executed. Clean lines. 

Marcus 

Thanks for the ideas and likes.

The bend 0.5mm thick plywood has been formed and installed where the tiller goes in and filled with the combo glue / sawdust. 

Once this is dried and hardened I can make a rectangular hole wher the tiller goes through. After that I will plank it with walnut planks that are 0.5mm thick by 2mm wide strip wood.

The wales have been redone. Still needs much sanding 

Marcus

Now the area where the tiller goes in. In Dutch it's called het "hennegat". 

Removed with a x-acto knife and saw the two upper wales on both sides. Then sanded it even. 

Created a template from a round dowel. Both sides of the dowel have the same angle as each of the sides of the Fluit 

With a combination of glue and sawdust re - installed the upper wales. The glue / sawdust combo was also added to the inside of the planks to create a hard structure. 

The newly glued on planks were held together with painters tape. The planks are thin as second layer will be installed on the first layer. 

0.5mm thick small piece of plywood was soaked for 30 min in water. Shaped it around the round dowel. This piece follows the curve of the area where the tiller goes in. 

If this does not work I will go back to the drawing table and figure something else out. Eventually I will find a solution. I refuse to trash this and start over correctly..

Marcus 

Made a template from the area that is glued on top of the sternpost. 

Created a 1mm thick veneer by glueing 0.5mm plywood and 0.5mm walnut veneer together. Used the template to create those 2 pieces and glued them to the sternpost. At the same time it will hide the square dowel added to the sternpost. 

Marcus 

I just noticed this built and I like the figures you added. It makes it so much more realistic. Excellent craftsmanship. 

Marcus 

Thank you both for your imput. The only thing I will be doing is add 10mm piece of wood to the keel and sternpost. Several people said the same thing on modelbouwforum.nl as you both did. 

Marcus 

Thanks for all the likes and comments.

I've noticed another mistake (I keep doing this). When I initially cut out the sternpost it was according to the drawing. Glued it to the skeleton frame and started planking. My guess is that my planking is to thick as well as the wales because the post slowly disappeared. 

I should have planked the hull first and then glue the sternpost and add the wales last. So in some areas of the sternpost I will have problems gluing the gudgeons on to it. What I need to remember is dat the angle of the sternpost has to be equal to the angle of the transom. 

My options.
1. Leave as is and just add the gudgeons.

2. Add wood to the keel, sternpost and then install the gudgeons. Problem then is that the top of the rudder is to far away from the transom.

3. Add wood to the keel, sternpost and cut the transom to add more wood. When the keel is installed the top of the rudder is close to the opening where the tiller goes in.

Hope this made some sense and if not, look at the pictures of the final results.

Basically making the sbip 1 cm longer.

The problem with this method is that the hole were the tiller goes is is going to be 1 cm larger, basically too big. So then the drastic thing to do is to remove the transom area above the sternpost from frame 0 to frame 15 and start all over again. I have done something like that already. The more I think about it the less I want to do that.

  Marcus

Kees, as always, excellent craftsmanship. 

The book you used for your bilge pumps, what is the name and author of that book? 

Marcus