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Keith Black

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Keith Black

  1. If coal was brought aboard in sacks (seems the most likely case) there still needed to be a winged backstop from which the coal could be shoveled. A winged backstop would also help to contain the coal dust and grit to a limited degree.
  2. Congratulations, Scotty. Very nice build made even more so by the fact it's your first.
  3. Dare you try to match the bowsprit color to the mast color with stain? Looks like Golden Oak might work. Mast and bow work really looking nice.
  4. Eric, was coal the fuel of choice? If so where is the coal bunker located?
  5. Really neat work, Eric. I'm guessing the answer to you question is provided in the below? "Yes, there would be a safety valve atop the boiler and the venting pathway runs through a pipe that connects to the chimney. Steam for the engines draws off the top, there's usually a cylindrical drum up there, from which piping runs back to the engines at the rear of the vessel. Here's a view of the full machinery setup on my Arabia. You can see the steam drum, the piping to the engines, safety valves on both sides, and the vent pipe leading to the right side of the breeching."
  6. Barry, welcome to MSW. Good luck with your Beagle build. Glad to have you aboard.
  7. Side wheelers don't do it for me, I think it's because they're at the start of the transition period. I'm much committed to the 1870-1900 time period but I'm beginning to have my doubts about another long term commitment. If you're in to side wheelers it looks like a great kit.
  8. Sounds like a wise decision, Tom. No need to make the process any more difficult than necessary.
  9. Absolutely! I couldn't have said it better.
  10. When we lived in North Dallas we had a raccoon take up residency in the attic and of course it was a female and of course she proceeded to bare a litter of kits. We didn't want to evict mom till the kits were old enough to survive the move. The mom nested directly on the sheetrock ceiling above our TV room upstairs and that winter we put up with the most godawful noises of clawing and scratching from the wee little buggers crawling about in the attic from one end of the house to the other. Finally summer came along and when the Texas heat hit about a thousand degrees in the attic, mom and the kits moved on. Relieved we didn't think much more about it till the following winter when mom came back for another safe littering experience. While animal residency in one's attic sounds kinda like a neat experience it's anything but. My sympathies Bob, I know exactly what you're going through. Resist the temptation to burn the house down, I know it sounds like a viable option but.........
  11. Ole Bob is going through a rough patch and seems to be out of action till May. Bob needs a cat, maybe we should send him one.
  12. Bob, be they mice? Mothballs do a pretty good job at keeping pest at bay. Glad to hear you and yours are feeling better. Get back to us when you can, we'll be here.
  13. Brian, absolutely! Redoing the mizzen main stay with bullseyes is the only change that I'll document as the other pre shroud work have much less visual interest. I wish I had done this before things go so closed in. Looking back, after the hell I went through getting the aft stack's chain stays in place i was afraid to work around those chains by adding bullseyes, just running the stay ends to eye pins seemed so much safer. But now that I've added bullseyes to all the other stays, not having a pair on the mizzen main stay seemed goofy. An hour into the change over i was wishing I'd left well enough alone. i started on the port side working around the gaff lines and trying to stab the twisted end, .028 inches, into the .034 inch drilled hole about had me throwing things! I crushed one twisted bullseye and had to make up another lashed pair. Before inserting eye pins, blocks, and bullseyes I apply CA gel on the twisted end and insert. Once inserted I'll add some additional CA liquid with an homemade needle applicator around the base. Last night I struggled keeping the gelled end from coming into contact with any and everything except its intended target. Eventually perseverance won out, thankfully the starboard side went like a breeze.........whew! Lashed bullseyes ready to place. Before, stay tied off to eye pin After, port side bullseyes added. Starboard side added. The lines are not tied off at this point as some additional work needs to be done to the stay lines below the top. Thank you to all for the likes and for following along.
  14. Ian, welcome to MSW. I'll be following your build, wishing you great success.
  15. Tom, what was the custom durning Sophie's time period, painted mast and spars or unpainted?
  16. Joe, welcome to MSW. Good luck with your restoration. Glad to have you aboard.
  17. At this stage of our lives we don't to worry about exciting events blowing our hair back.
  18. Congratulations, Mark. Good to see you back working on the Jylland. in about six months you'll wonder how you ever had the time to hold down a full time job.
  19. IMHO the most simple solution is to use a small round head brass nail and cut it to the desired length. If needed you can file the head diameter down to a smaller diameter. You can also file the head flat if desired.
  20. Joe, if you add 'Norwegian Sailing Pram' in the search box on the MSW's home page there are many Pram build logs. I'm sure if you explore those logs you'll find see how others have handled that issue.
  21. Very nice, Mark. She's a beauty.
  22. Comments housekeeping...... Thank you, Pat. Most of the corrections are going to be so minor they'll likely go unnoticed. The one that will be noticed is adding bullseyes to the mizzen mainstay attaching abreast the rear stack. Currently the stay is merely tied at eye pins. When I originally installed that stay I was afraid I'd make a dog's lunch out of the stack's chain stays if I tied adding bullseyes there but I now think I can do so without damage to the chains. I'll certain post that correction. Thank you, Rick. Because I cheat with the way I strop and attach blocks and deadeyes it makes that tiny finger work manageable. I'f I was doing it the normal way they'ed have to put me in a home. Those that work in even smaller scales (Eberhard for one) blow my mind. Thank you, Andy. I use Gutermann polyester thread. I have limited experience with cotton thread and I hated working with and the finished look. the biggest knock against polyester the than being nontraditional is because it stretches, i have not experienced that. I've had line at the stern of the mizzen tied off going on two years this Spring without any noticeable droop. I didn't pre stretch the thread, I just pulled it taunt and tied if off. i would never consider using cotton after my experience with the Gutxrmann polyester thread. Thank you, Keith Keith, you made me smile. Consider it yours, Eric. Glen, Tom, and Dave, thank you guys, you're too kind. Thank you to all for the comments and thank you to all for the likes. Your support warms the cockles of me ole heart.
  23. Gerry, welcome to MSW. learning the model ship hobby is not a bad thing unless you absolutely hate the idea of it. As we get older learning new things helps keep our ole gray cells functioning properly. If you have no desire then i hope you're able to find someone to repair your father's model, being able to enjoy a father's passion is a blessing. Glad to have you aboard.
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