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Everything posted by lmagna
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Might as well get the stuff you will use anyway. It is almost certain that you will have a bunch left over. All kidding aside, you might look at Crest Pro-health with a RDA value of 189. RDA stands for relative dentin abrasivity. Teeth have a hardness of about 5, a diamond is rated at ten. So combining the factors used to measure this hardness teeth come out at about 7 RDA, meaning that your toothpaste has to be at least that hard to polish your teeth. As you can see Crest can easily do the job with room to spare. should do the same on glass or plastic. The only higher abrasion I could find was Colgate 2 in 1 Tarter Control/Whitening or Icy Blast/Whitening listed at 190-200! There are of course many that are lower and would give a finer polish. But then so would using the same toothpaste for a longer time and adding water. I have the list if you want it.
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It looks like about all of the kit you are using is possibly the "box-O-sticks" part. Even that may change as you go on.
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Mark and Wallace are right. Toothpaste can work as a pretty good polishing compound. If you were able to scratch it that easily then you should be able to polish it out as well, but if that fails You can try Johnson floor shine. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Johnson-S-C-Inc-Future-Acrylic-Floor-Shine-Finish-Floors-Wax-Home-Cleaning-Home-/252295061184 (At least I think that is the current bottle) It may even have a different name where you live but whatever, if you coat the glass in the floor shine all of the scratches will go away just like they do when the glass is wet. Good luck
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Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale - PLASTIC
lmagna replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Hey........... They ran on gas too! It's just that they had to do it for 24 hours straight! As a side note, many American racers had problems when racing in the european endurance races. Most of the big block engines had issues running the low octane fuel used without considerable modification. They had to be set up one way for Sebring and Daytona and other American races and completely different for LeMans, Nurburgring, and the other major races of the day. The Ferrari's, Porsche's and others seemed to have less of an issue with this. -
Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale - PLASTIC
lmagna replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
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Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale - PLASTIC
lmagna replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Even though I have never had the ability or equipment to make my own decals I had pretty much the same thing happen on my 1966 Bruce McLaren LeMans Ford GT40 MKII. I thought it was possibly one of the best cars I had ever built. The black paint job came out almost perfect. When I applied the white number circles though the black showed through and they still look gray today as at the time I had no recourse. If I did it again I would be certain to paint white under the decals BEFORE putting them on. You may be right though. For your choice of theme it may have been better to go with a lighter body. -
So are you going to let some of us reimburse you some of your development cost by being allowed to buy plans, program, or laser cut parts! I don't own a laser cutter but I think I could track one down to use!
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I can hardly believe his is the old Pyro kit George. Your work is incredible!
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I have also built several of these kits when I was younger and in fact still have a couple. Your build turns what is mostly just a toy model into a real work of art. Your work is impressive.
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Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale - PLASTIC
lmagna replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I also agree with Ken on the future. Put a coat down now for the decals to have a smooth surface, then apply another coat after they are good and dry as protection. Also while your clear parts are still on the sprue, dip them in the Future and allow to drip dry. When dry they will REALLY look like glass! -
Nice flags but the eggs are a little out of scale I think. You need to find some micro chickens. Maybe you can find some among the Leprechauns on your trip! See you in a week or so.
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It would be hard to believe that Kilroy didn't appear somewhere with a ship full of troops who are all done and going home!
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Nice choice Greg. Looks like there will be more brass than plastic on this build. Can't help but compare your pictures of the turrets and other cast parts with those sold by Model Monkey https://www.shapeways.com/product/U7FU99ZEF/1-350-5-quot-38-cal-mk-30-double-knuckle-mounts I know that if you start buying more stuff like gun directors, turrets, etc that it isn't really out of the box anymore, but there is so much available. If you were building a square bridge you could even have an interior! https://www.shapeways.com/product/TVMMY4PWW/1-350-fletcher-bath-iron-works-type-pilot-house https://www.shapeways.com/product/QCBL5SHN9/1-350-fletcher-bethlehem-steel-type-pilot-house Here is his whole 1/350 catalog. Destroyers are on the right column. https://modelmonkey.wixsite.com/modelmonkey/scale-350 Going back to hide in my corner but looking forward to your build as always.
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I think it is your imagination. They look fine from here. Another case of being your own worst critic!
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It's been great following your build and seeing a masterpiece come together. Congratulations on your superb rendition.
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I have no idea. Not only are U-boats not my forte but I have not built either kit. I was referring to Jim's reply to Yves statement about this kit and the Revell kit.
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Hi Patrick I of course don't have any pictures to base my opinion on as you didn't post any, but when have I let lack of knowledge get in the way of saying something? I suspect that your shrouds are just fine and it is only the fact they are standing there all by themselves with no other rigging that makes their "shortcomings" stand out to you. By the time you add all of the remaining rigging, especially if you intend to add sails, you may not even be able to see both sides if the ship at the same time to even make the comparison. Having said that, IF you want the practice then doing over is always a way to get it! I have not personally done it, as my Providence build is presently on hold but my intention was to take two relatively thick and flat planks that were at the right width to measure the proper spacing of the ratlines and clamp them in place to the shrouds as I worked my way up. One in front, one in back. That would create a clamp on the shrouds locking them in place while you tie the ratlines and tighten the knots. At the same time they create the proper spacing so that each line is even and straight. Unclamp, move up,clamp and repeat.
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Phantom Henry J Gasser by jct - FINISHED - 1/24 scale - PLASTIC
lmagna replied to jct's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Sometimes I feel it would be much better if I went back to my old RC days when my average ship ran me about $30. Old scrap wood and some shipping Styrofoam cut and sanded to shape, covered in fiberglass and sheets of plastic from some old realtor signs for the superstructure. All combined with similar junk found around the house, (Like an old chunk of drain pipe that happened to be the perfect diameter for the funnel). The radio was about all that cost anything and I used the same radio on all my ships for years! -
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I think what Jim was referring to in this case Chis, was not a case of using the same molds as the models are not in the same scale. He was presenting the possibility that Trumpeter copied the design, including the flaws, and enlarged it to 1/48th.
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Not to slight anyone here as to their abilities, (They are all pretty much better than I am) but one of the best builders on the forum is a woman named Doris. Her material of choice is card and sculpting clay but she produces true works of art. She also likes to put lights in her models. I'm not familiar with the Leudo but I'm Looking forward to your build.
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