Jim Rogers

I don’t believe using a number 2 pencil on your existing deck would give the results you want.

I would use it as a guide and apply thin planking over it. That way you could get a more realistic butt pattern and highlight the edges of the planks with a number 2 pencil to simulate caulking.

      I use this from MicroMark. Great little sander, easier to control then Dremil, flat surface not round.

Try Chuck’s tissue in the printer method for your flag. Works well and looks great. This is one awesome piece of modeling prowess.

Boxwood plus Ebony Wood dye (black) will give desired results with less costs and headaches.

I have used them before, no issues.

Milling Machine

Ordered on Friday, received in WA on Monday. Shocked me  it was so fast.

Bob CA Debond will work. Just let it soak take a sharp #11 blade and slowly ply it off. Start at the top slip blade in and drip in more Debond, let set,repeat.

I have a love/hate relationship with my Byrnes. Does a great job but on occasion when I get complacent it will send a board into the wall at Mach 3. 

I am on a iPad.

I have been checking Syren Ship Company three times a day. Now when I toggle it on sponsor row I get a box with “ Do you want to download syrenshipcompany.com. And a download button. This is a new issue what happened?

https://www.veneersupplies.com/categories/Veneering__Supplies/Tools__%26__Supplies/

https://ocoochhardwoods.com/

Chuck I was thinking what do you think about air brushing one side of a cedar billet black prior to milling that way your tar line is already done and uniform.

Pencil works just fine. 

Is there a proper name for this device?

The best water available for dioramas is available at woodlandscenics.com. They are a model railroad scenery business and  they have everything you need plus instructional videos. Here is a couple of photo of one of my dioramas using their product. Most highly recommend.

As far as I know Uboats did not have noise makers the size of refrigerators nor did they harass freighters over the radio.

Here ya go Richard

I picked up almost the exact same saw at Harbor Freight for $25. I mounted it on a jig with a stop to make repetitive cuts faster and more accurate.

After figuring out how I wanted to mount the ship I got rid of the back braces that came with the mount and cut a rabbet in the base plate. The ship now sits snug in the mount with the hull against Pegasus head and the keel resting in the rabbet. Intentions are to use my Shaper Origin and set the mounts down 1/32 to lock in place. Planning on engraving sextants in the corners with name and date engraved in base.

I decided to put my time to good use and start on my stand. I picked up some curly maple, joined it together for a base that is 14x47, ran it threw my drum sander. I purchased the Amanti Pegasus Mounts but really hated the color so I had them painted.

I use clamps like these in the photo available from MicroMark.
 

Lining off your hull, marking it in battens, Soaking or steaming the planks, pre bending and letting dry on a form shaped like you bow is always a successful way to do a blunt bow. Check Chuck’s planking primer on You Tube it is a big help. Good luck. Take your time.

How is Chapter 4 coming along?