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king derelict

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  1. The B-25 cockpit looks terrific. Great work. That ZM kit looks superb and reading the blog shows it to be a fantastic build. I look forward to seeing you work on it. Your kit choices are excellent. Alan
  2. As a postscript to the above I hauled out my stock of thinners and experimented. Reading around the internet a lot of people were claiming great results from Mr Color leveling thinners with AK paint. Mind you there were also people claiming great things about using Tamika acrylic thinner which at least for me is a guaranteed way to block the airbrush solid. I just learned that Mr Color leveling thinner causes the AK paint to congeal. Tamika lacquer thinner does the same. As a last shot I tried Mig Ammo acrylic thinner and it thinned nicely. Yet curiously MiG Ammo acrylics thin with Tamiya acrylic thinners too. so it looks like I can avoid using water as a thinner Onwards Alan
  3. This is hardly a progress report today. I sprayed the relevant sections of Zinnia with the AK MS3 paint and found it was hardly distinguishable from the light grey already in place and nothing like the colour chip I have for MS3. I mixed up a blend of IJN grey / green and dark green from Tamiya and used that. I liked the result a lot better so went ahead and added the dark grey. Today, a day later, I stripped the masking and found that the light grey had bled all over the red lower hull and over the dark grey deck. The dark grey had bled all over the grey / green and the light green. Its far too extensive to touch up. I haven't had anything as bad as this before. The grey green didn't seep anywhere. i think the problem was the AK acrylics which are water based and had to be diluted with water. They sprayed on very wet and I think that resulted in the seeping. The grey / green is Tamiya which I think has an alcohol base and dried fast. Sorry no pictures I was too disgusted. Its going to need to be stripped down and redone. I need to see if I can use something other than water with the AK paints - or dump them and use all Tamiya ones. Another day, another lesson learnt Alan
  4. Today was the day when the modelling gods decided I needed a good poking. I soaked the paper for the wet palette and soaked the sponge. Added BBs to the paint and got a good consistency. New brushes at hand and ready to go. I picked up the daffadar in the universal clamp and had a brushful of yellow paint poised and, to my horror, the figure fell out of the clamp. I guess I didn't clamp the base tight enough. The day being what it was the daffadar landed on the Nabopolassar figure which was lurking on the bench. Both heads detached and the soldiers base fell off. No obvious damage and the pieces were glued back in place but that shut down any painting plans for the morning. I turned my attention to removing the masking from my Flower Corvette and found that paint had seeped through the masks EVERYWHERE. I've never had a result as bad as this. Maybe stuffing teddies isn't a bad idea after all. Alan
  5. A spectacular result. One of the very best I have seen. I think the water running down the side of the ship looks impressively realistic. I may go and take up knitting. Alan
  6. This will be a spectacular model. It looks like a very tempting kit - the Mig also Looking forward to it Alan
  7. The figures make a great scene and take it beyond being just a model. A very beautiful model even so Wonderful Alan
  8. After all the great advice, the Copperhead BBs, wet paletta and nail art brushes have arrives. A couple of the brushes may be over long for me to use but the others look good and hold a point very well. I don't see any stray bristles in any of them. Now if only Amazon would deliver a couple of days away from the test stand I could get going. Thanks for all the help Alan \
  9. A minor update without pictures today. I tinkered with the seascape and after badmouthing the stuff yesterday I used the Vallejo foam / snow stuff to add white to the wave caps and foam. This time I knew what to expect - thick white paint and I dry brushed it where I wanted high lights. I'll see how it looks tomorrow and decide whether to try the snow powder or more foam / snow - or leave well alone. I finished masking Zinnia for the second hull colour, the grey green and then fell into the usual rabbit hole of what colour its supposed to be. Mirage call out RN colour G20 which is a mid grey / green. Their pictures show a green more like the IJN grey green I used for Spiraea in a different paint scheme. Its definitely not Western Approaches Green which is a whole other paint scheme too. Zinnia was only in service for about four months in 1941 which restricts the options and as best I can tell it should be MS3 (mid grey / green) which is very similar to G20 but an earlier rendition. I'll be using that along with 507A and 507C for the dark and light greys. By the time I had decided this and dug out the relevant paint it was time to strap on the safety boots and head for the test stand. So hopefully tomorrow Thanks for looking in Alan
  10. I have something similar and it is a big help when working with the foam. The High Eye guy uses one a lot too. In my hands at least it’s not a precise tool but it allows you to work on the foam in places where it is hard to get a knife. Sloping ground can be a case in point if it’s a large area alan
  11. Its a favourite of the High Eye Youtube channel that does dioramas High Eye Workshop - YouTube Alan
  12. Nice photos of Cornwall. I used to sail a 19' Hunter out of Carrick Roads down there. Very happy memories (well, apart from the day we got caught in a sea fog and couldn't remember which way was France) Alan
  13. I haven't tried that but it is generally very forgiving and tolerant. It doesn't tear up into little balls like expanded polystyrene. I used it as the base for Castle Loarre and the current seascape. Its nice and rigid too. Alan
  14. I do like the 1 inch thick extruded (not expanded) polystyrene sold for insulation. Its easy to work with, cuts well, glues well and takes paint and medium well. When shaping slopes I find the average hobby knife doesn't work too well because the blade is just not long enough. I raid the kitchen instead. A long serrated knife works well. Remember the old "kitchen devil" knives. They are just the job Alan
  15. OC. I was wondering if you had some old cardboard boxes that you could cut up to create the contours of the rising ground. Then use strips of old newspapers/ free newspapers/ junk mail (just avoid the glossy paper) laid on with diluted white glue to get the final smooth shapes. Maybe a final layer of typing paper to get a clean surface if you want to paint on it. Yep,, old school (literally, I remember doing this at school sixty years ago). It’s papier-mâché as suggested above. The thickness of the card is probably not critical so you could use whatever you have on hand. Good luck. The scene is developing wonderfully alan
  16. Hi Mike Curiously I had reached the same conclusion and ordered some Woodlands Scenic snow powder. I think I need to boost the white on the wave caps and spray and I want something a bit more dimensional than paint. I have the Vallejo Foam and snow stuff but (I'm probably using it wrong) that just seems like fairly thick white paint. Thanks for the tip about adding white to the areas around the foam. I think with guidance, I'm getting somewhere. Alan
  17. Thank you very much EG. Copperheads were a new term to me and several Google pages about snakes didn't help much but a belated guess got me a bottle ordered with the wet palette. Thats a great help Alan
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